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Old 10-03-2012, 05:03 PM
Telly Telly is offline
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Default Trunion Shims

I'm complete with the removal and cleaning of all the components for a full knuckle/wheel bearing replacement on my newly acquired 78 FJ40 and I'm waiting on my kit from Cruiser Outfitters. My plan was to simply reinstall the shims that were on the rig but I am now thinking I should check it. Looks like a straight forward process as long as you have the SST, measuring calipers and a fish scale. Can I rent a SST from someone or somewhere? Any suggestions on how to do it besides following the FSM? I'm done knuckles on two 80's but this is a new one for me.

Thanks. Doug

Last edited by Telly; 10-03-2012 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:44 AM
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Yeah, if you can get the SST then it's likely worth doing, though IMO the consequence is less severe on a part time truck compared to an 80, since those front axles won't be spinning most the time, and one of the benefits of a well centered trunion is getting the axle centered in the inner seal, right?



Subzali is the most recent guy I can think of who has done this, here maybe this will help http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/foru...ead.php?t=6635
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:11 PM
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Your timing is awful.

I just carried my SST back down to NM last week. In about a month I can bring it back up here if you can wait....

Dan
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:34 PM
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nakman, thanks for the link...very helpful. I had grey soup in my front diff so I want to cover all bases with the rebuild. Plus I have some slight scoring inside the spindle shaft...that can't be good.

DanS, my timing always blows. I have not priced one of these SST but I may have to consider buying one. I guess I could wait a month if the price is $$$. Thanks for the offer.

Another related question, both my axles have a very slight groove at the inner seal location. Is the rule of thumb to have a perfectly smooth shaft at this location or your just waiting your time? I'm using Marlin seals.

Doug
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:57 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Hi Doug, unless there is obvious need to relocate the shaft, re-using the exact same shims is the normal practice. Doing a disk brake swap (involving a different knuckle than the one that came from the factory) is the typical reason to need to measure using the SST for different shims. Bearings are made to tolerances in the 1/10,000" range so simply renewing the knuckle bearings is not a reason to have to measure for new shims.

The grey soup is pretty typical of a worn out inner axle seal ("Birfield seal"). A little bit of grooving is normally not a problem unless it is so deep that you can catch your fingernail on it. With the part time locking hubs, you really won't have anywhere near as much to deal with as an 80 that turns all the time.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
Hi Doug, unless there is obvious need to relocate the shaft, re-using the exact same shims is the normal practice. Doing a disk brake swap (involving a different knuckle than the one that came from the factory) is the typical reason to need to measure using the SST for different shims. Bearings are made to tolerances in the 1/10,000" range so simply renewing the knuckle bearings is not a reason to have to measure for new shims.

The grey soup is pretty typical of a worn out inner axle seal ("Birfield seal"). A little bit of grooving is normally not a problem unless it is so deep that you can catch your fingernail on it. With the part time locking hubs, you really won't have anywhere near as much to deal with as an 80 that turns all the time.
I agree with Jeff... Just put it back together with the shims in the same spots they came from and go for it. I have used a borrowed tool on both my 60 and 40 and the shims remained essentially unchanged.

The only real reason I'd re shim is if I had a bare axle to work with or if I suspected that a previous owner jacked with it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
or if I suspected that a previous owner jacked with it.
One of the knuckle bearings in my '76 40 was a BALL BEARING.

No idea how the idiot thought that would fly, but I guess they figured the races were the right sizes so what the heck? Needless to say, not only was the seal shot but the bronze liner in the hub was worn unevenly where the shaft was way out of concentricity.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:46 PM
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Just to throw in my two cents - my shims were pretty far off when I went to measure. So someone had been in there before and messed it up. I at first put it back together the way it came apart but it leaked a few short months later. YMMV
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Just to throw in my two cents - my shims were pretty far off when I went to measure. So someone had been in there before and messed it up. I at first put it back together the way it came apart but it leaked a few short months later. YMMV
I think that's the test. Once you get it together, drive in 4wd for a while, then see if it's leaking. I guess 40's don't have ABS sensors on them do they... do they still have those square plugs? You can stick something down there to see if it's soupy.. but then again, if it is then you're doing the whole thing over again. I guess I'd probably lean towards the SST, if you can afford to have the truck on stands until you find one.

What's the width of the groove on the axle- is it thicker than the Marlin seal? Wait, did you pull a Marlin seal out of it? Or just get those to put back in... hypothesis being if you just got the 40, and the PO did Marlin seals, then maybe he switched the shims by mistake and there you go that's why the soup. which means you likely need the SST to sort it out.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:24 AM
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Telly - the seal lip will cause a groove over time. The Marlin seal should help with re-sealing that surface because the dual seal lips are in different locations than the OE seal lip.
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