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  #21  
Old 10-31-2012, 09:03 AM
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that cavity has openings in the bottom of it to allow water to get out. I always hit them with the pressure washer at the car wash to make sure they are clear.

It may seem counter-intuitive to shoot water into a spot you don't want rusting, but I think it is better to wash out the dirt that clogs the holes.

After a long week in moab tons of red dirt comes out in one washing.

Looking from the inside (the cavity can be seen from behind the interior panels) there is no rust in mine. I think ti works to keep them clean.
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2012, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
I thought if if you removed the cargo panel on the inside, you could see part of the back side of your repair area. Maybe I have forgotten - I sold my 60 years ago.
yes this is true.
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  #23  
Old 11-01-2012, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Jeff - my FJ60 developed a water leak around the fuel filler neck and had about 1 gallon of water sloshing around in that cavity. I removed the tiny rubber drain plug at the bottom and replaced the gasket around the filler neck.

I thought if if you removed the cargo panel on the inside, you could see part of the back side of your repair area. Maybe I have forgotten - I sold my 60 years ago.
I'll have to check - I do not recall any access to that cavity once it is sealed at the bottom, but I do remember looking up and seeing the back side of the rear speaker.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:08 PM
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Jeff, you can def. get to it. Is just a matter of removing the speaker panels. easy peasy. I am in there more often than I care to admit
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:45 PM
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Jeff, you can def. get to it. Is just a matter of removing the speaker panels. easy peasy. I am in there more often than I care to admit
That's good to know Marco, thanks. I hope to get another layer on this weekend and another sanding session, maybe even get it ready for paint. I talked to the guys down the street at Kittredge Auto Rebuilders and they were all down with paint as soon as it is ready.

One thing they did advise is that both Bondo and primer are porous and I shouldn't count on them keeping moisture out for very long. IOW, I need to get the good stuff on it to seal it up for the winter ASAP.
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:52 PM
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After Wednesday evening's meeting, I decided to try to get some progress done Thursday while the weather was still nice. The forecast for the weekend is for wintery weather.

So after I got home from work, I put a layer ("skim" as Dave related) to help even out the the surface - it was still somewhat dented.
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:54 PM
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Even though it isn't what the factory did, I have filled in the back side of the lip on the inside just because that area holds so much junk, it seemed like if it were filled it might have a better chance of lasting and not rusting from the inside.
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  #28  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:55 PM
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I sanded the tips off with the 3M wheel. It was probably overkill, but dad gummit, I was tired of hand-sanding!
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  #29  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:57 PM
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After the wheel, I came back and sanded by hand for about an hour. It looks like I will still need about one more bondo session, but it is getting more and more like the original shape.
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  #30  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:57 PM
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Then another quick coat of primer until the next session.
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