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  #11  
Old 12-04-2012, 12:10 AM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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It is the locker. Nothing scary and NO REASON to ditch it. That locker is that best bang for your wheeling buck you ever had, and you will get used to it soon. I have Lock Rights in 3 of my 4 cruisers and they are great. A little clicking is a small price to pay for the wonderfulness of an auto-locked rear. Of course you can spend a grand on an air locker and fragile compressed air system if you want to go to an free rear on the road...
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  #12  
Old 12-04-2012, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telly View Post
I did notice the clunking when decellerating on a tight, down hill off-ramp without the clutch depressed. The PO gave me the original rear diff parts so the aussie locker will be removed. I was planning to drive the rig some in the snow but I'd be in the ditch after the first "torque steer" hits me. Wish I had the funds for front/rear ARB air lockers
I really don't mess the bump steer since swapping my lock-rite for an ARB earlier this year. The lock-rite was what the budget would allow at the time, it came to me used and is still going strong in one of Rzeppa's rigs. In the years I ran it, I got used to the noises and bump steer.
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  #13  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:27 AM
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This discussion reminds me of the decision I made to ditch the Aussie that came with Ken's 40- which is now happily in service in Papa Root's rig.. I too didn't like the torque steer, or the loud clunks at the supermarket, and I had another truck with lockers, etc.

my thought was then, and still is today, that particularly when you're just beginning wheeling a stockish/mildly built 40 should be more about line selection, momentum, some left foot, and knowing the vehicle. For that one obstacle where you just can't get it, that's why you have a winch, or a strap and a guy in front of you. And if you don't have a winch or a guy then you don't do those trails alone. Only after you've mastered the vehicle, do you then add lockers & push it further. 40's aren't supposed to be point & shoot like some of the newer wagons right out of the gate. Just my opinion, obviously.

What clinched that was leading Kane Creek one year, and seeing this guy Dave (in2cruisers, iirc) do the whole thing completely open. He had a 2" lift and 33 x 9.50 tires. The ditch, the shelf road, the waterfall at the end.. he cleaned it all, even after multiple bigger, better built, locked up trucks struggled and even dug it up more. It's cool to see someone who actually knows how to drive wheel for a change, and that day I wanted to be like that guy.
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  #14  
Old 12-04-2012, 12:22 PM
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I'm just being overly sensitive about how my new 40 behaves. My last rig was a boosted, locked 80 that rode like a caddy. I have done 90% of the trails in Moab, including Pritchett. It was my wifes DD and she wanted to downsize. She got a Honda and I got a 40 (win/win situation). I don't mind the clicks or even the occational bang but the torque steer has me concerned in the slick stuff. My thought is to swap out the locker just for the winter and see how much different it drives. I think my hard core wheeling days "may" be over but if I get back into it, I'll just reinstall the locker. All that being said, driving the 40 puts a smile on my face everytime. Doug
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2012, 12:25 PM
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Well said! And having BTDT with a big 80 as well I know where you're coming from. If you've already got the stock diff parts and the old shims for the sides then go for it, and you may be surprised next year back on the trails just how much you can still do open.
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2012, 12:56 PM
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I haven't had issues driving in the snow with my Lockright in the rear of my FJ40 with Goodyear MT/Rs. I think a lot of it has to do with the tires though. Definitely has better behavior with an open diff though.
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Last edited by subzali; 01-02-2013 at 02:34 PM. Reason: added clarification for snow driving
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2012, 03:53 PM
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No doubt, the torque steer (separate issue than "bump steer", which is from insufficient droop in the pitman arm) is something to get used to. And it is more pronounced in a shorty 40, but you just learn to modulate your right foot a little more carefully when turning. I have also had Lock Rights in a big pickup (HZJ75) and the one Ricardo is talking about is in my FJ60. The longer wheel base on those makes it almost imperceptible compared to a 40.

And I agree (somewhat) with Tim's suggestion to learn to drive open, as I did for many years before I put a lockers in my 40s. One of the main things that having that rear locker has done is be able to drive slower, at lower RPMs, which has got to help reduce the stress on everything. When you're open, momentum is a part of your tool kit for getting over and up stuff, far more than locked.

Don't worry about snow and ice. You will actually have more traction and control with your locked rear than you do open. There are a lot of instances where I don't even need 4x4.

Speaking of torque steer, I broke the long side rear axle in my HZJ75 on Poison Spider on a winter pre-run one year. Since it had a full floater and a Lock Right, I was able to finish the trail in 3 wheel drive and drive home on the highway in one wheel drive. Now THAT was torque steer!
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2012, 05:49 PM
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If it's a pretty loud knock, instead of a clicking, it could be the knock of the ring gear and the pinion backlash as your locker engages, and frees. Mine will make horrible noises with tight turns and the clutch depressed, opposed to the clicking from the locker as I'm putting a little power to the drive train. I never had the noise till after I installed my Aussie Locker...I assume the noise is normal...
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2012, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtnkegger View Post
If it's a pretty loud knock, instead of a clicking, it could be the knock of the ring gear and the pinion backlash as your locker engages, and frees. Mine will make horrible noises with tight turns and the clutch depressed, opposed to the clicking from the locker as I'm putting a little power to the drive train. I never had the noise till after I installed my Aussie Locker...I assume the noise is normal...
It is EXTREMELY important to have proper spacing when either an Aussie or Lock Right is installed. Spacing is established with the thrust washers that go between the side gears and carrier. Most commonly, the thrust washers have worn and there is too much spacing between the locker drivers, resulting in the loud clunks.

Whenever installing an Aussie or Lock Right, you need to get a full set of different sized thrust washers to have on hand. You have to do the full install, and then measure the spacing. If it is out of range, you have to take it apart and replace the thrust washers with those of proper thickness to achieve the necessary spacing.

I wrote an article that was published in Toyota Trails on all this. I can't remember the precise date but I remember it had a pig on the cover. In the article I gave the spacing range and Toyota part numbers for the different thickness thrust washers.
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  #20  
Old 12-05-2012, 02:57 PM
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Thanks Jeff. I measured, double checked, and rechecked to make sure the spacing from the thrust washers was within the specs on the install sheet. I put it in about two years ago, and re-used the thrust washers that were in there already because the spacing worked. Do you suggest I open her back up and take another look? I only get noise at tight turns on pavement with the clutch depressed.
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