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  #41  
Old 12-10-2012, 11:51 AM
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I haven't crushed a sleeve on a 60 but I have on my 80 rear diff. It took mega ft-lbs to crush it which involved a LONG cheater bar. As long as you're not using a healthy impact wrench to tighten the nut, the difference between tight and sleeve crushing tight should be obvious.
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  #42  
Old 12-10-2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I haven't crushed a sleeve on a 60 but I have on my 80 rear diff. It took mega ft-lbs to crush it which involved a LONG cheater bar. As long as you're not using a healthy impact wrench to tighten the nut, the difference between tight and sleeve crushing tight should be obvious.
When I did the diffs in my 60 it took a HUGE amount of force (3' cheater bar with two people pushing) to get it to start to tighten also. When I tightened my 60's pinion nut after it had come loose I just stuck a 1/2" breaker bar on the nut and tightened it hard (feet pushing on bar, holding onto tire) and it seemed to work ok. When I took it apart the pinion bearings actually looked OK. My diff had a ton of backlash so I actually was able to get a feel for how tight the bearing was by just rotating it back and forth where it had slop.
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  #43  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Jeff, I think an FJ60 is supposed to have a crush sleeve as opposed to a staked nut to keep it on and to set the preload. At least from the factory.
No, the crush sleeve is to set the preload as opposed to shims. The nut is either cotter-pinned (early, like my '71) or staked (later). The stacking has nothing to do with pinion preload, it is to keep the nut from backing off.
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  #44  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MountainGoat View Post
Ruh roh Zepp:
No, see above (or below, where ever it is). The torque for the crush sleeve is the same as when you are using shims. The staking just keeps the nut from loosening like mine did.

What happens is, the pinion bearings wear some, and thus you lose some of your preload. If the nut is staked, that's all that happens. But if you don't stake the nut like whoever forgot to do on mine, once you lose the preload even a little, that's all that was keeping the nut on there, and now it can back out like mine did.
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  #45  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
able to get a feel for how tight the bearing was by just rotating it back and forth where it had slop.
Inch-pound torque wrench works wonders for making sure the preload is in range...
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  #46  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:24 PM
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Inch-pound torque wrench works wonders for making sure the preload is in range...
True, probably the preferred method....

You just have to make sure you aren't rotating the carrier and letting that drag add to what you are feeling on the pinion. If the diff has a lot of play you can kinda get away with feeling it.
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  #47  
Old 12-13-2012, 05:26 PM
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True, probably the preferred method....

You just have to make sure you aren't rotating the carrier and letting that drag add to what you are feeling on the pinion. If the diff has a lot of play you can kinda get away with feeling it.
Yes, obviously you are (normally) doing this with the carrier on the bench, but a couple degrees of lash will give a reading within the same range. Like you said
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  #48  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:49 AM
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I think I replicated this sound last night. See this video here:


If I leave it in gear (clutch depressed) it makes the noise on tight turns (especially if I power into the corner).

If I coast into a sharp corner, like the first one in the video, even if I leave it in gear (clutch depressed) it may not make the noise. The key to making the noise is powering into the corner and getting the drivetrain a little bound up.

If I shift into neutral AND depress the clutch it doesn't make the noise.

Doesn't really make sense in my head, but that's the way it is. I've trained myself to shift into neutral when making tight turns. I had to re-learn how to make the noise come back.

All my measurements came out within spec when I installed the Lockright. Not sure about my R&P backlash though.
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  #49  
Old 01-03-2013, 05:23 PM
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This is absolutely, positively the sounds a lunchbox locker makes, and under the various conditions you describe.

The locker is basically two round metal pucks with large blocky teeth on them. Each of them is splined and fits over the end of one of your axles. There are springs in the unit that push these two pucks towards each other so the teeth mesh together thus locking the rear axles together.

The unit is designed so that whenever there is any torque from the drive train (i.e. in gear and moving forwards) applied it adds additional compression force in addition to the springs. Thats why if you have the drivetrain under load, even slightly, and you turn sharply on pavement, you may get a loud Bang! as the teeth of the locker disengage. It must either disengage, break an axle, or you would hear the outside tire screeching as it gets drug around the outside of the turn.

When there is no load on the drive train and you turn tightly on pavement, you will either here the teeth of the locker clicking as it disengages and ratchets, or it may be soft enough you dont even hear it. That is all pefectly normal for that type of locker.

The real benefit of this type of locker is they are inexpensive, easy to install and relatively reliable as long as you can put up with the torque steer and funky noises. They can also be a little scary driving on packed snow or ice when turning because you never know if/when they will disengage and give the back end a little twist. If you ever have to side hill off camber on a snowy icey area, you will wish you had a locker you could shut off.

The only way to get rid of the noises you are experiencing is to put in a air or electric operated locker. You can also install a locker like a Detroit Locker and it wont make the noises, but you cant shut it off either. Its almost as costly to put in a Detroit as to put in an ARB anyways.
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  #50  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:22 AM
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Randy, there are two different "clunks" the locker is making/causing.

The one you are speaking of is quiet enough that you can't really hear it in my video (it did make that ratcheting sound on my first turn - you might be able to hear it if you turn the volume way up). This clicking is normal and pleasant to hear, IMO.

The second clunk is a lot louder, more violent, and shakes through the drivetrain. That's the one I mainly was trying to capture on the video. This is the one that's no fun to have happen, and is the reason why I coast in neutral a lot whenever anticipating making tight turns.
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