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Old 02-21-2013, 09:59 AM
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euroford euroford is offline
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Default i need to buy a dang truck...

arrg... this is something i'm both looking forward too and have been dreading.

it is time for me to begin the process of attempting to locate a used truck that i sort of like, and then purchase it for a reasonable price.

being somewhat new to the area (3 years) i'm not very familiar with what dealership or used cars lots would be worth my time to check out, thus far shopping has been limited to searching craigslist and autotrader, with mixed results. having just purchased a used welder via craigslist, i expect this to go about the same where i'll waste an incredible amount of time attempting to deal with sketchy people who hope they are going to turn a profit from a money pit...

actually... i think the whole truck thing is going to be a lot worse, which is why i would appreciate any varied advice you guys might have.

okay, i could elaborate on and on... but i should probably do some work and see if this discussion actually goes anywhere.
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1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:16 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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I bought my Tundra off c-list. Turned out well. Just my experience.

What are you looking for? Make, model, usage, etc.?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:19 AM
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Not much experience, I bought my cruiser off Craigslist, and the transaction went well.

If I was in the market for a non-diesl truck, I'd get a First Gen Tundra. Very reasonably priced, great engine, and its a great size.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:40 AM
J Kimmel J Kimmel is offline
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been doing it for 15 years, if you'd like some insight you can pm me if you'd like I can at least give you direction.

Jeremy
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:53 AM
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We bought our Jetta from CL and bought & sold our 4Runner on there, too. You can weed through stuff pretty quick. If there are no photos, the grammar is terrible, contact info is missing or weird then don't even bother. I set up an email with Hotmail that is only for Craigslist to prevent spam and phishing. If you email someone and it bounces or seems off, just stop replying. It's really the best way to find a used car IMHO, but being free you do have to wade through the crap that wouldn't have been in the classified.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:19 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I've never bought a car from a dealer. Figure out what you want, study the hell out of it to figure out what you're looking for (options, trouble spots, maintenance history, etc.). Then TAKE YOUR TIME and find the best one out there. Don't buy one prior to the 6th or so you look at IN PERSON). Nothing can ruin the used car buying process more thoroughly than buying the first one you find.

Don't waste money on CarFox reports, inspect the vehicle yourself.

In newer trucks, check the VIN stickers on all of the body panels to be sure of its history in terms of accidents. Every major panel (body, quarters, doors, hood, sometimes even bumpers, etc.) has a VIN sticker. They should all be present and they should all match. If one is missing or mismatched, it's not a deal killer, just check that panel and those around it carefully for signs of work, filler, panel alignment, broken attachment points, missing/chipped paint/wrinkles etc.

The "weather" should be bright and sunny with some clouds. Road grime is fine, leaks are not. There should be no drips. If it's spotless, it's been cleaned and you have to find out why. A dirty car is an honest car. Most important, you'd better be UNDER that car at some point in your inspection.

Know what came with the car from the factory (this goes back to the studying). Tool kits, cargo covers, literature, etc. In the best case scenario, these are bargaining chips, worst case and you're going ta have to track them down later.

If the truck in question is known to have any recalls or trouble spots, be sure they're addressed and documented. If they haven't been addressed (i.e. timing belts), bake it into your budget. In fact, assume that any factory suggested maintenance that doesn't have a receipt hasn't been done, know the price of these items, and do them within the second month after purchase (the first month is to see if there are any additional trouble spots that need to be addressed at the same time).

Flat white is the easiest/cheapest color in terms of body work. Anything darker is worse. Flat black is pretty bad. Metallics are terrible. Black metallic... You'd better really like that paint.

Finally (and most obvious) test drive it. Check every single feature and function. Know what it's supposed to sound like and how it is supposed to behave (which is why you check out a half dozen before you start looking at the ones you may actually buy). Be knowledgable (or have someone so skilled with you) as to what sounds, rattles, bumps, etc. mean from a mechanical point of view.

Finally, take detailed notes on every specimen you inspect. Compare conditions and prices (be sure to look at a few above your price range for data points and negotiation fodder). Share it with the seller if you think it'll help.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:22 AM
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1st gen Tundra's are nice, one of my buddies just bought one, and my neighbor just bought a brand new Tundra that is well, kind of dead sexy.

in my dream world, i'd find a black 7.3l f350 four door long bed 4x4, with a manual trans in pretty good condition for under $10,000, knowing that it might have some miles on it.

I'll concede that this might just be completely and totally unrealistic, but I did actually almost buy a white one that fit that criteria, and that particular truck may still be an option.


As for use... we already have three vehicles, this would be the forth and i work from home. so we don't intend to drive it very much, it will primarily be used for "truck stuff" or on occasions where the family runs off with all the other cars. given how much i drive my current car, i predict this would be around 4,000 miles/year.

"truck stuff": hauling away a crapload of yard waste, hauling in a crapload of dirt and rock, hauling around firewood, towing my heep and/or other future not that streetable vehicles that we might adopt, etc. buying lumber... transporting stuff like rototillers.

it might go on one or two big trips a year if we are willing to take the pocket book hit in fuel to haul stuff back and forth. moab or visiting family in michigan and texas. we would kind of like to go to KOH next year for example.
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:37 AM
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euroford euroford is offline
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I'll add that i'm glad to hear ya'll have had good experiences buying from craigslist, i'll say that I have had mostly good dealings myself, including buying/selling 8 different cars.

the truck thing just seams... i dunno.... weird. i guess too many people spent $60,000 on a truck and racked up 250,000 miles in three years and want to sell it for $35,000 to pay off the loan!

ahhhk! i just have this impending sense of frustration with the whole thing.
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:02 PM
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coax coax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euroford View Post
in my dream world, i'd find a black 7.3l f350 four door long bed 4x4, with a manual trans in pretty good condition for under $10,000, knowing that it might have some miles on it.
Someone here at work has an f250 with the 6.0 4 door, yellow that he's selling. 14.5k. Not sure what year.
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'97 lx450, 170k, factory lockers, ome 850/863, 285's, 4 working doors(1 more than the old fj55 )
'74 project pig (sold)
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:15 PM
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euroford euroford is offline
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i'd say the first thing i'm NOT going worry about is color.

but yellow is a deal breaker. i just don't know that i could live with myself.
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Tim M Hovey
1950 cj3a: FJ60 Axles, brakes, and steering, Willy's
sheetmetal and a Buick engine, held together with
metal from the scrap yard glued together in a garage in
Louisville and dragged around behind a F350 Diesel.
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