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  #21  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:39 AM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
The more I think about the more I convince myself to do something. :-) I'm gathering stuff to clean up the rust, paint it and rustproof it. So might as well do some frame strengthening now before I coat everything and put the camper on it.

Yes, you are right Nakman...

From what I see fully boxing in the frame might be more work than I think is necessary, though (would prefer not to remove the box for one). You have more experience with Tacos than me. I'd want to retain the stock BPV, shock, gas tank and spare mounts.

That isn't a problem.

I've also seen people weld reinforcement to the outside of the frame over the axles. Does this really help prevent the frame from rippling under the box? If so this might be an option that's easier and achieves some of the benefits. I'll probably order up CBI's plates, I like the looks of them.

Boxing the frame helps with frame flex. It is designed to stiffen the frame to prevent twisting. plating the outside will help a little with this because it is harder to twist a thicker piece of material. It will certainly help with the "tearing" issue, if the plates go across the weakened area, and don't terminate at the area of concern.

Honestly, for your use, A plate across the outside should take care of the concern. The twisting is going to be an issue if you are seriously rock crawling, hauling heavy loads, and are pushing a ton of horse power. From what I know of your intended use, boxing everything in may be overkill. But, up to you.


http://www.cbioffroadfab.com/store/p...products_id=98

I also see some people reinforce the front frame horns. I might one day put a bumper on, but even if not, is this section of frame known to be weak in a non-SAS situation? What about the section that transitions down from the box to parallel under the cab, forward of the spring hanger? Isn't that the spot where most frames eventually rust and bend?

In my opinion, this is not worth doing on the front, but a plate across the transition from cab to box could be worthwhile. There is nothing up front to stress the frame on these trucks (non SAS), except an aftermarket bumper and winch, but that can be fixed if you decide to go that route down the road. Even there, it would take a lot of winching to mess up the frame. My dad's 04 has a 4WC Hawk in the bed, and an ARB with a winch, and we've done a couple of good pulls on it, plus it got whacked in a parking lot ( direct side hit to the ARB by a plow truck) pretty good, and absolutely no frame damage, bumper was easily repaired at a shop, and it was all good to go. But, easy enough to do if you want to.
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  #22  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:41 AM
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Oh, and one last thing is that, while removing the box is a little bit of a PITA, it certainly will make any welding easier for whomever does the work. And, the box really isn't that hard to get off, but does take a couple people.
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  #23  
Old 03-31-2013, 06:26 PM
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I guess I should clarify, I don't mind taking off the box to work on the truck. I just hesitate to avoid biting off more than I can deal with. We moved last summer up north (almost in Ft. Collins) and I'm still working on a hoist (which I need for the WilderNest anyway). It's gonna have to be outside, the new (old) house is not built nearly as solidly as the old (old) house, eye-bolts in the garage ceiling won't cut it here. :-)

Hmm. I definitely like the idea of boxing in the frame, that is the way frames are supposed to built. At this point there won't be a swing out bumper or long range fuel tank, but there will be a camper, fridge and hitch rack for the bikes. I don't travel light, either. Geez, I know, I know.

So are frame plates AND boxing overkill? Thinking stages, gussets now, inner plates down the road when I get ready for suspension. Think a couple of people could remove the box, weld on side plates and put the box back on in a day? I really need the truck ready for road trips by May, so whatever I plan should be straightforward and doable.

On the front, I know guys do some work on the frame horns when they put on an ARB and I'd do the same. Don't they usually close up the ends, too? I have no intention of crawling this truck, it's gotta stay manageable for road trips and she's OK with us keeping Imelda as long as the new truck remaining something she can drive... So the old truck won't have a topper on it and I expect that it'll get used for chores and day trips.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:30 PM
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Boxing will accomplish all you want in the rear. I would only add additional plate where the rust issues are. Maybe one more over the cab/box interface.

2 people can remove a bed, 4 makes it much easier. I'd recommend 4. The bed does not weigh that much, but I prefer the control 4 people gives, to prevent damaging the bed by smacking things, etc... Also, a set of sturdy saw horses is key. You don't want to just set the bed on the ground.

A day is certainly doable, provided there aren't major issues. If you are set on a 1 day turn around, plan to start early, and before the day, make sure you can get all the bed bolts loose, find and disconnect the body harness (tail lights, etc...), and pull the filler neck. That way if there is anything stuck or siezed, you can get it hit with penetrating oil, and go get spares if something breaks.

If anything is too siezed, or it get to be too much, the bed can certainly be left on.

Also, pull the shocks out, don't want hotness around those.

Anyway, that's how I go about getting a quick project ready, by trying to think through problem areas (rusted stuff) before hand, and get after it so I go into the project day prepared.

Anyway, thats all just my .02. Certainly take it for what it is worth.
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  #25  
Old 04-01-2013, 06:45 AM
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Your dos pesos are worth a lot to me, Isaac, you of all people have no need to qualify your advice. ;-)

My thinking right now is it's most important to do some sort of strengthening of the frame. I know boxing is best and probably inevitable. Plates are a band-aid and not a complete solution. Still, a lot of people have been successful in stiffening the frame, taking out most of the twist just doing gussets on the outside.

I am constrained to trying to finish the fab part in a day if I want to do it now. Which means allowing for FUBARs, painting, etc. it's at least a weekend project. I think it's easier to justify doing plates more-or-less correctly right now than hoping to pull off a proper boxing of the frame even in a weekend. If (when) I box in the frame I want to consider maybe moving shocks, maybe a custom cross member for a second fuel tank. Not to mention things like bracket alignments and customization that boxing surely will involve. Adding plates by themselves is a lot of work but there seems to be a pretty low risk of major gotchas tangents that derail summer plans...

I'd also like to get a few miles of seat time before deciding. I mean, for Goodness sake, I still have temp tags on the thing and just 106.7K on the clock (just 200 of which are mine). If I can keep the frame sound for a few years more I have plenty of time to go crazy on it. I think plates on the outside buy me that time.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 04-01-2013 at 07:25 AM.
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  #26  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:30 AM
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i'd be willing to help. we could use my place if ya'll wanted.
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  #27  
Old 08-29-2013, 03:49 PM
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More reason why one does not buy trucks that come from SLC, UT.

Anyone got a trick for getting a spray-in bed liner off?

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  #28  
Old 08-30-2013, 08:14 AM
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maybe the dry ice trick?

bummer dude....
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  #29  
Old 08-30-2013, 08:39 AM
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Is that a mount point for the bed, or just a random hole that formed?

Would an extra hot heat gun turn it to goo so that you could scrape it? Or an angle grinder with a wire wheel?
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  #30  
Old 08-30-2013, 11:11 AM
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On Mud, it seems like most people use a wire wheel. Would paint stripper (with methylene chloride) attack it? I'd apply some, and then put a couple layers of Handi-wrap over the stripper to help the MC stay put and attack the bedliner for 30 minutes.
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