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Old 04-13-2013, 11:01 PM
BJ42Cruiser BJ42Cruiser is offline
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Default Diesel Rebuild Options

Need advice on what to do with my cruiser. I have a 1981 BJ42 – 3B engine – 4 speed. My engine went from bad to worse lately when it stopped running . Was at a stop light, accelerated in 1st gear when she all of sudden died. Rolled to the side of the road where I tried to start it up again with just a sold thunk as I started her. Tried manually turning the crankshaft to no avail. The engine had a rebuild in the near future as the compression was low, but it now most certainly needs one. I am conflicted on spending the time and money on a rebuild as I have not been completely satisfied with its power. I knew she was a dog, but the altitude (5,000 ft) and old, tired engine makes her hard to drive here in Colorado. I love this rig to death, but I may have to move on if I can’t make it more drivable. Obviously, with her not running I may take a substantial hit in a selling price. So what are my options?

1. Quoted $5,000 labor only for a rebuild. There would be a minimum of $2,000 in parts and that is if things look OK once torn apart. Can anybody recommend a good diesel engine rebuild shop in the Denver area? This would get me a “new” engine, but I would have the same low performance problem. Is there anywhere I can ship this engine for a rebuild?

2. Turbo it! Can anybody tell me, especially if you are at high altitude how a 3B will run after she has a turbo? Specifically, a mountain pass…can I ever expect to get her to 55mph going up I-70? This would add another $2,000-$3,000.

3. Swap in a used “Grade A” engine for $2,200 myself and sale her for what I can. This may command a better selling price even with the extra money spent then just selling it how she currently sits.

Bottom line is, I only want to keep it if I can make it a suitable daily driver and not worry about it drastically reducing speed with the hint of any small hill. Don’t need it to do 75mph, but would like for it to climb mountain passes without people honking at me while doing 35mph.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:47 AM
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Do you want to stay with a Toyota power plant? I have seen ads for shops that do diesel swaps in Toyotas and you could probably ship your engine off for a solid rebuild probably with a turbo add on.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:58 AM
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nattybumppo nattybumppo is offline
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Dan Silbaugh is our diesel guy. He has rebuilt one himself, and he lives at altitude. His seems to run pretty well. But if you really want to go up to the tunnel at 65, you might be shopping for something other than a 40 series. There are a few 45 mph stretches in there for most of us 40 guys.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:05 AM
BJ42Cruiser BJ42Cruiser is offline
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Bigcity25 - Would love to hear where you saw a engine swap. I am not apposed to swapping in an alternate engine if it gains me much needed power. Are there places you can ship your engine for a rebuild? Specifically someone that know what they are doing with an old Toyota Diesel?
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattybumppo View Post
Dan Silbaugh is our diesel guy. He has rebuilt one himself, and he lives at altitude. His seems to run pretty well. But if you really want to go up to the tunnel at 65, you might be shopping for something other than a 40 series. There are a few 45 mph stretches in there for most of us 40 guys.
Nah. A 3B with a turbo will be just fine. I could do 53mph up to the Eisenhower from the west side in the middle of the day in August. Temperature is the limiting factor, not power. At night, or in cooler temperatures I could easily keep up with traffic, if not pass a few at 65mph... And that was with a tired engine...

I wouldn't even ask about putting a turbo on it. ALL diesels should have turbo's, in my opinion. ALWAYS. And yes, $2-3K is a pretty good ballpark for a turbo setup, although you could probably beat that by a good margin with some careful shopping. Look up "Diesel42" on ih8MUD, he was selling some real nice 3B turbo kits based on the GT2052--which is a nearly perfect match for the engine.

5K to rebuild sounds a bit high to me. I would ballpark $1K per cylinder. But, it's been a while since I rebuilt a full engine. In fact, our 3B is getting rebuilt this winter, but we don't have all the bills in yet (and my Dad got motivated to learn how to rebuild his engine, so it may be a slower process than it should be).

Have you called Robbie? I'd be willing to bet he can rebuild a 3B real easily. They are VERY simple engines, and Robbie is a very talented mechanic. I'd send the business to him if he's got time.

Other options: find a 13BT to swap into it. Basically a 3B, with a turbo--but with the benefits of direct injection. Makes for easier starting in the cold, and should run cooler up the hills--but the end power is about the same.

If you can pull the engine yourself, you can rebuild it yourself. Seriously. The machining gets done at a machine shop, but the rest of it is simply careful assembly. It really isn't rocket science, just have to pay attention to the FSM and be very detail oriented about everything. That said, if you're intimidated by an engine overhaul, it's probably best to outshop that, or hire someone to come check your work with the most important parts.

If you had the engine out of the truck, I'd offer to help you rebuild it (and here's where my wife would roll her eyes and ask if I have time to finish my own projects, let alone help others) this summer or fall.

Long story short, a 40 with a 3B and Turbo is a wicked nice daily driver. Efficient, powerful enough, and, well, a 40! I LOVED daily driving the 40 with the 3B/Turbo for the two months I had it up here (it belongs to my father in NM, but I wanted to shake it down for him). One of these days (about number eleventy trillion on the list) I'll build another one like it for my wife and I to use as a daily driver. If the engine rebuild gets completed sometime soon, I'm sure we will have it up here in CO again for a while, and I'd happilly let you take it for a spin to see the 3B/Turbo drivability.

Dan
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:37 AM
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no idea what these guys cost but they're the ad I have seen in the past.
http://www.importperformanceusa.com/...-diesel-swaps/
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:24 PM
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Tough call really. What's the body condition like? While 3B's are ample with a turbo, a 13B-T is nicer. Trick is, there are next to ZERO 13BT engines coming in now. Back when I was importing, it was pretty easy to pull in a few at a time, but the insurance regs on these has changed. Now the importers have two options: Entire container, or in a working truck.
If you look in the classifieds, or even on clist lately, you'll notice gobs of full JDM trucks coming in now. There have been several BJ7x trucks with 13B-T's AND removable tops lately. As much as I love the 40, those 70's are really much nicer as a daily driver.

For example: http://forum.ih8mud.com/bj70-hzj73-h...rged-bj73.html But that's not a 13BT, still nice tho.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/bj70-hzj73-h...low-miles.html

If you decide to rebuild, you can have the full kit out of Australia for a tick over a grand. Factor in labor, full head rebuild, and maybe a new head, and your $4-5k price is probably about there for a turn-key. You could probably buy a rebuilt one from Crushers up in Canada and have it shipped down for less than that, and then wind up with yours for parts.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:36 PM
BJ42Cruiser BJ42Cruiser is offline
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Well, I have some good and news and I have some bad news. Good news is, I didn't find any carnage under the cylinder head. Bad news is, I didn't find any carnage under the cylinder head! Check out the pics and tell me what you guys think.

https://plus.google.com/photos/11440...JO_qLqJ6LTpuQE

So here is what we know so far.

- 1981 BJ42 (New Zealand),370,000km, 4 speed, inline injection pump
- Stopped while accelerating in 1st gear from a stop light and then died
- Confirmed crankshaft will not manually turn (in neutral)
- Compression was done with a compression tester and confirmed to be in the low 300's (prior to breakdown)
- Believed to have low oil pressure as after running long and hard on a highway and then coming to a stop once off the highway it would usually die and continue to die everytime engine was allowed to idle.
- Engine has white smoke especially during start up and could last for several minutes even when it was worm out.
- Crankcase ventilation leaked a small amount of oil and always emitted a little smoke.
- Developed a slight tick in the engine maybe a 100km prior to the engine seizing. Could always be heard better at high rpm's.

One other thing that may be a huge or may be nothing at all. Just prior to the engine seizing while sitting at the light. I moved from 2 wheel drive to four wheel drive and then back into 2 wheel drive without ever moving the cruiser. It was one thing that I didn't check with the engine tick sound and thought that it maybe could be something in the linkage. Could this possibly lock the engine?

Well, what is the next step. Willing to tear this baby apart, as it needed it anyways. Thanks for all of your help!
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:24 PM
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DanS DanS is online now
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The pics didn't work for me.

If you've already got the head off, you're halfway done with the disassembly.

If it were me, I'd get ahold of Engines Australia and get a rebuild kit on the way.

Dan

Quote:
Originally Posted by BJ42Cruiser View Post
Well, I have some good and news and I have some bad news. Good news is, I didn't find any carnage under the cylinder head. Bad news is, I didn't find any carnage under the cylinder head! Check out the pics and tell me what you guys think.

https://plus.google.com/photos/11440...JO_qLqJ6LTpuQE

So here is what we know so far.

- 1981 BJ42 (New Zealand),370,000km, 4 speed, inline injection pump
- Stopped while accelerating in 1st gear from a stop light and then died
- Confirmed crankshaft will not manually turn (in neutral)
- Compression was done with a compression tester and confirmed to be in the low 300's (prior to breakdown)
- Believed to have low oil pressure as after running long and hard on a highway and then coming to a stop once off the highway it would usually die and continue to die everytime engine was allowed to idle.
- Engine has white smoke especially during start up and could last for several minutes even when it was worm out.
- Crankcase ventilation leaked a small amount of oil and always emitted a little smoke.
- Developed a slight tick in the engine maybe a 100km prior to the engine seizing. Could always be heard better at high rpm's.

One other thing that may be a huge or may be nothing at all. Just prior to the engine seizing while sitting at the light. I moved from 2 wheel drive to four wheel drive and then back into 2 wheel drive without ever moving the cruiser. It was one thing that I didn't check with the engine tick sound and thought that it maybe could be something in the linkage. Could this possibly lock the engine?

Well, what is the next step. Willing to tear this baby apart, as it needed it anyways. Thanks for all of your help!
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  #10  
Old 03-14-2014, 11:22 AM
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OilHammer OilHammer is offline
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Whatever happened with this?
I'm basically in a similar boat. I have white smoke I can't seem to get rid of (it smells like unburned fuel, not antifreeze). Compression is good, valves have been done, injectors done, pump done, checked for air in fuel, adjusted timing, rebuilt turbo....everything. Short of pulling it and replacing sleeves and rings for the hell of it, I'm stumped. I sure hate to rebuild a perfectly good engine if its something stupid.
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1978 13BT-40, 70 series mechanicals
1966 FJ45 lwb stock
2003 100 OME lift
1974V8J40, 1992FJ80, 1985FJ60, 1971FJ55, 1978FJ40, 1974FJ40, 1997 LX450 all long gone.
KD0PZL
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