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  #11  
Old 05-15-2013, 11:28 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Originally Posted by Firetacoma View Post
Ok, slowly getting things back together. I was frustrated by the fact that I had to remove the water pump to get the top timing cover bolt off. I tried a screw driver but it was stripping. argh.

But I got it off, all looked ok underneath, there was a LOT of an RTV like substance around the plate. I decided not to dig into it at this time. I know that's probably where the leak is and that it's still going to leak, I just don't have the know-how to tear in that deep.

So, I started to button it all back up. 2 things:
1. Why do I have to put the pully back on before torquing down the cover bolts? I did it because it's recommended, but I don't understand the need.

2. I don't have a torque wrench that could possibly fit behind the pulley. So I got them "snug" but not too tight. Good enough?

Now to get a new water pump gasket and probably some new hoses and see if this project at least REDUCED the leaking.
There is some play in the placement of the timing gear cover before all the bolts are snugged down. Keep them loose, then put the crank pulley on to center the cover. Then tighten down the bolts on the cover. Everyone knows, or should know that the bottom two, the big ones, get some RTV on their threads. As I posted above, a little smear of RTV on each side of that cork gasket will make future removal easier. It is not needed for sealing. Do not over torque the bolts for the timing gear cover, like oil pans and side covers that will deform it and make it leak. The factory cork gasket works great and is very forgiving. As with all seals, smear some grease on the timing gear cover seal before putting the crank pulley on.
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:14 AM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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Hmm. The "no FIPG" ship has long sailed. haha. I used it on the cork gasket, and in place of a gasket for the water pump. Is the issue just that it's a pain to get off next time?

I still have a leak after getting it all buttoned up. I can't really tell where it's coming from but now I'm thinking it might be the cover plate.

I've decided to live with it for now, it's at least a bit better than it was!
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:27 AM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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...Take that FIPG and give it to someone with a newer Toyota, you do not need it for our old iron. It is bad Juju.
Oh-oh - I've got bad Juju on my old iron. I'm glad it is being offset by the drive old iron every day karma.


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Originally Posted by Firetacoma View Post
... I still have a leak after getting it all buttoned up. I can't really tell where it's coming from but now I'm thinking it might be the cover plate.
Bummer. If you clean it all up, you should be alble to find the source pretty easy.
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2013, 09:19 AM
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The oil is high up on the the timing cover... it's either the top of the timing cover or the cover plate, I just can't see down in there well enough to tell for sure.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:33 AM
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The oil is high up on the the timing cover... it's either the top of the timing cover or the cover plate, I just can't see down in there well enough to tell for sure.
Are you sure it is not coming from your timing cover? The engine cleaners (gunk) come with the nozzels that will let you spray all that area with cleaner. Rinse off with the hose and all that gunga will slide away which will make it easier to spot the source of the leak.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:59 AM
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Not 100% sure... there's so much crap in the way (radiator, fan, hoses, etc.) it's hard to tell for sure.
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  #17  
Old 05-18-2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Firetacoma View Post
Hmm. The "no FIPG" ship has long sailed. haha. I used it on the cork gasket, and in place of a gasket for the water pump. Is the issue just that it's a pain to get off next time?
Not only is it a TOTAL PITA to remove parts that have been FIPG'd, but there are instances (timing gear cover comes to mind) where the thickness of the cork gasket is part of the calculus of where the seal mates to the thing it seals (pulley). But yeah, it can be really difficult to unmate parts that have been FIPG'd together. I remember using a hammer and chisel on my daughter's 4runner oil pan...

Using a little smear of RTV on either side of the factory cork or paper gaskets makes them a breeze to unmate down the road.
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2013, 02:24 PM
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What year is this rig? Oil leaks from the older, stamped steel valve covers are quite common, especially if they have been over-torqued and deformed, or just that the cork has gotten old and hard. I have a couple of spare OEM factory cork valve cover gaskets I don't need any more since I put an aluminum 2F valve cover on my old F engine.
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  #19  
Old 05-18-2013, 03:08 PM
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Oh well. If I ever feel ambitious I'll tear it open again and not use fipg. For now I'm living with the small leak.

It's a 77. It wasn't flat but I set it on the floor and beat on it until it was!
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2014, 07:47 PM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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So, I'm about to tear into this again in the next few weeks to try to fix my leak issues for once and for all. I was thinking my cover was warped so I ordered a used one from SOR... New is no longer available. The new used one, when set on a flat surface still rocks. How flat should it be? Should I tap a tap it to try to eliminate that wobble?

This time, no FIPG and I'm using a torque wrench that can do inch feet!
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