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  #11  
Old 06-03-2013, 06:34 PM
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nattybumppo nattybumppo is offline
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The front diff on my 60 also used to slip out of drive in low range sometimes. A new detent spring from Marlin fixed it right up for $3.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2013, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattybumppo View Post
The front diff on my 60 also used to slip out of drive in low range sometimes. A new detent spring from Marlin fixed it right up for $3.
Did it slip out of Low Range or out of Four Wheel Drive? I have worked on a lot of Land Cruiser and Mini/4Runner Transfer cases and don't recall a spring for Low Range?
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  #13  
Old 06-05-2013, 11:55 PM
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Both High-Low & 2WD-4WD have detent balls & springs:

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After having some hi-low shifter issues with the early Orions, Advance Adapters made some changes to the shift system, shift shaft with deeper detents, longer spring, etc. This is available as a retrofit however any Orion made in the last 5? years should already have the upgrades.
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2013, 12:12 AM
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Thanks for the info everyone. Mine was new last year. I have read that it could be a vacuum issue? It gets nice and low, but doesn't turn the fronts. The hubs SEEM to be working, at least last time I was in CO. This would be much easier to deal with if I was home.
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  #15  
Old 06-06-2013, 08:12 AM
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Your 1979 shouldn't be vacuum operated, you should have full manual engagement on both movements
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  #16  
Old 06-06-2013, 09:35 AM
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Gotcha.
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3rd Battalion 5th Marines India Company 2005-2009
"Get Some"

1979 FJ40 - "The Phun Express" - Smurf blue
- 5.3 Vortec - 4L60E - Orion 4:1 -SOA front / 4-link rear - FJ60 axles - ARB's - 4.88's - 37's

1999 UZJ100
- factory locker/ARB front - 285/75r16 Duratracs - Slee 2.5" Heavy Kit - Slee Blueberry/Warn VR10000 - Slee tube sliders - EMS cat-back
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  #17  
Old 06-06-2013, 10:33 AM
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This should be pretty straight forward for your friends to trouble shoot. Have them put it in 4 HI and make sure the hubs are unlocked. Drive it slowly as someone walks next to it and watches the front drive shaft. If the DS turns then the tcase is engaging the front drive. Repeat the same test in 4 LO. If the DS turns the tcase is engaging. Next, put the tcase in 2 HI and lock the hubs, repeat the slow drive by. If the DS turns, assuming you dont have a locked front axle, then both hubs are probably OK. If not, you probably have an issue with one or both hubs.

Just to be clear, you do have the dual stick tcase shifter made by Advanced Adapters specifically for the Orion, correct?

Even with this shifter setup you have to make sure it is properly adjusted. On my Orion it was the last 1/8" of stick movement that engaged the front drive shaft. Make sure the shifter is properly adjusted and that the stick travel is not being limited by the sheet metal of the floorboard or even the rubber of the boot. If so, you may need to open up the size of the hole in the floorboard. I even had to heat up my shifter stick and bend it back slightly to keep the knob from hitting the dash board. Once I did all of these things to mine, it would reliably go in to 4WD, both Hi and Lo, and not pop out.
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  #18  
Old 06-06-2013, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisledYouth View Post
I do have the twin stick.
It is abundantly clear that this is a front drive issue, and I can't think of any reason why high/low would affect it, especially with the dual sticks, along with the observation that it shifts into low range and operates in low range.

As Randy said, double check that the hubs are engaging before delving into the transfer case. An alternative method to check this doesn't involve driving or even running the engine. Just jack up the front end and turn a wheel with the hubs locked. If they are engaged the other wheel will turn (opposite if open, same if locked), if not then it is the hub(s).

If the hubs are engaging, then crawl underneath and have an assistant operate the front drive stick and observe the shaft go out and in (out is front drive, in is front disengaged). A lot of times things become obvious when you just look at them.
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  #19  
Old 06-06-2013, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
It is abundantly clear that this is a front drive issue, and I can't think of any reason why high/low would affect it, especially with the dual sticks, along with the observation that it shifts into low range and operates in low range.

As Randy said, double check that the hubs are engaging before delving into the transfer case. An alternative method to check this doesn't involve driving or even running the engine. Just jack up the front end and turn a wheel with the hubs locked. If they are engaged the other wheel will turn (opposite if open, same if locked), if not then it is the hub(s).

If the hubs are engaging, then crawl underneath and have an assistant operate the front drive stick and observe the shaft go out and in (out is front drive, in is front disengaged). A lot of times things become obvious when you just look at them.
I know what he said earlier, but I wanted to be 100% certain about having "twin sticks" to make sure we were all on the same page after the comment about "it could be a vacuum issue"
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:00 PM
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My mechanical knowledge hurts.

The vacuum thing was dumb, I know. It confused me when I kept reading it in different places. I am positive for realsies that I have the twin stick. That part's hard to mess up.

If you ever need advice on how to run your motorcade, small unit tactics, or combat shooting, I've got you covered. Just don't make fun of my mechanical skills. It hurts my feelings. It's also why my company has mechanics instead of letting us window-lickers fix our own vehicles.

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3rd Battalion 5th Marines India Company 2005-2009
"Get Some"

1979 FJ40 - "The Phun Express" - Smurf blue
- 5.3 Vortec - 4L60E - Orion 4:1 -SOA front / 4-link rear - FJ60 axles - ARB's - 4.88's - 37's

1999 UZJ100
- factory locker/ARB front - 285/75r16 Duratracs - Slee 2.5" Heavy Kit - Slee Blueberry/Warn VR10000 - Slee tube sliders - EMS cat-back

Last edited by MisledYouth; 06-07-2013 at 03:17 AM.
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