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  #11  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:04 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Nice! Thanks for posting up Chris! I've been working through my electrical needs on my truck, in preparation for dual batts and accessories. Love these threads because people always post up about all the neat dodads that you'd never think of.

Tim, that inverter is almost exactly what I need. Unfortunately, it looks too tall to fit under a 4runner seat, but that is fine, as I'd probably run it out of the back anyway.

BTW, anyone know of an inverter that has remote plug mounts? By that, I mean something you could mount behind an interior panel, but have the plugs mounted to the panel. I'd prefer not to have something as kludgey as an extension cord plugged in behind the panels. That seems like its asking for trouble.
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post

BTW, anyone know of an inverter that has remote plug mounts? By that, I mean something you could mount behind an interior panel, but have the plugs mounted to the panel. I'd prefer not to have something as kludgey as an extension cord plugged in behind the panels. That seems like its asking for trouble.
Isaac, in my 80 I actually ran 12-2 romex and work boxes.. plugged into a hidden inverter. That solution worked well, other than it was just a 400x inverter so it didn't do much, and it created static with my CB... ok that solution didn't work that well. But grounding issues aside, running an extension cord "behind the scenes" is still viable. I bet there's a picture here somewhere..
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:34 PM
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Same idea here Isaac. I opened up my inverter where the existing plugs were attached to the box, and extended those wires using basic stranded copper wire (can't remember the gauge) to 4 remote plugs in my truck: two in the cargo area and two behind the center console. The issues (as I recall from a few years back) are the lack of space inside the inverter box to stuff more wires, and the need to drill some holes in it to run the wires to the outside. Other than that it's just ripping apart your interior and running cable....

Chris - The sophisticated solution is to run some heavy gauge (fused) wire from your aux battery to a hard-mounted inverter somewhere inside the truck (probably in the cargo area), and then use the inverter to power your 110v appliances. A "less elegant" workaround would be to carry the unmounted inverter, and then when you are at camp you can hook it to your battery using some alligator clips, and then plug in your lights to the powered inverter. The latter introduces many more risks for shorts and electrocutions, but it's not unprecedented....
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bomber22 View Post
i use a 750w/1500w max inverter from harbor freight tools, alligator clamps straight to battery of my camper and run a extension cord to what ever, mainly charging i-pod
That's what I am talkin' bout!!
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Isaac, in my 80 I actually ran 12-2 romex and work boxes.. plugged into a hidden inverter. That solution worked well, other than it was just a 400x inverter so it didn't do much, and it created static with my CB... ok that solution didn't work that well. But grounding issues aside, running an extension cord "behind the scenes" is still viable. I bet there's a picture here somewhere..
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Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
Same idea here Isaac. I opened up my inverter where the existing plugs were attached to the box, and extended those wires using basic stranded copper wire (can't remember the gauge) to 4 remote plugs in my truck: two in the cargo area and two behind the center console. The issues (as I recall from a few years back) are the lack of space inside the inverter box to stuff more wires, and the need to drill some holes in it to run the wires to the outside. Other than that it's just ripping apart your interior and running cable....

Chris - The sophisticated solution is to run some heavy gauge (fused) wire from your aux battery to a hard-mounted inverter somewhere inside the truck (probably in the cargo area), and then use the inverter to power your 110v appliances. A "less elegant" workaround would be to carry the unmounted inverter, and then when you are at camp you can hook it to your battery using some alligator clips, and then plug in your lights to the powered inverter. The latter introduces many more risks for shorts and electrocutions, but it's not unprecedented....
Nice! I like the modification approach. Sounds like Romex is bad, but some good shielded wire may work well.

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Nice! I like the modification approach. Sounds like Romex is bad, but some good shielded wire may work well.

Thanks!
Nope, nothing wrong with romex, and all kinds of things wrong with shielded. Tim's issue was that the inverter itself was radiating and conducting - low end stuff will do that. If you want a quiet inverter look for the CE mark on it. That means it will have had to pass pretty stringent tests for EMI and RFI.

Romex is an excellent, cost-effective solution for carrying large currents (like the DC current between a battery and inverter) as long as it doesn't have to flex, because the conductors are solid and not stranded.

Shielded is excellent for low power applications like instrumentation and radios, but horrible for high current applications, unless you are prepared to spend upwards of $50 a foot for adequate gauge. Plus, it would be a couple inches diameter. You see that kind of stuff on big radio towers and in labs.

I had a dual battery setup in my 40 I designed and built in 1986. It was to run a gigantic stereo. I could never hear my little stereo when I was driving home from band rehearsal and gigs (imagine that! ) so I designed and built a 6 channel, tr-amped 12 speaker system. I used a big marine battery as the aux battery, and built an entirely separate wire harness just for the Aux system. I charged the aux system through an isolator (low forward drop dual rectifier) I got from an RV place. It worked great for decades, no problems ever. The whole idea is you can run loads to your heart's content from the Aux system and not worry about being able to start and drive. Alternatively, if you pull a and leave your lights on, you can give yourself a jumpstart with just one jumper cable
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  #17  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
I used a big marine battery as the aux battery, and built an entirely separate wire harness just for the Aux system. I charged the aux system through an isolator (low forward drop dual rectifier) I got from an RV place. It worked great for decades, no problems ever. The whole idea is you can run loads to your heart's content from the Aux system and not worry about being able to start and drive. Alternatively, if you pull a and leave your lights on, you can give yourself a jumpstart with just one jumper cable
This is similar to the dual battery setup I built. I used a Painless solenoid with a 3 way switch. Up on the switch is jump mode, middle is off/normal, and bottom is charge. Every now and then, I flip it to bottom and drive around a bit so it'll get a charge. I have a Blue Sea fuse block wired to the aux battery and then to the switches for accessories: winch, lights, etc. My CB is wired into that as well. HAM is hard wired to the main battery. I've got a couple of 12v outlets in the back that are also wired to the aux battery.

The whole system was pretty easy to put together. Ran about $300 for parts and I found a deal on a brand new Optima for $100. Zero issues except when the negative cable fell off the aux battery a few weeks ago...
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  #18  
Old 09-09-2013, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bomber22 View Post
i use a 750w/1500w max inverter from harbor freight tools, alligator clamps straight to battery of my camper and run a extension cord to what ever, mainly charging i-pod
That's exactly what I do too. 1500w/3000w inverter. 4ga wire with jumper clamps directly to the aux battery. I like having it removable and convenient. I've cooked in the crock pot for hours like that. It's not "100 approved" like all the fancy setups I've seen, but it works. I try to keep it country.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2013, 09:17 PM
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If you want to charge your computer or other higher end items I'd look for a Pure Sine Wave inverter. It will produce clean power like what comes out of your wall at home.

My thread on a fuse block install here: http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/foru...+outlet&page=3 Starts at post #28
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2013, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
Nope, nothing wrong with romex, and all kinds of things wrong with shielded. Tim's issue was that the inverter itself was radiating and conducting - low end stuff will do that. If you want a quiet inverter look for the CE mark on it. That means it will have had to pass pretty stringent tests for EMI and RFI.

Romex is an excellent, cost-effective solution for carrying large currents (like the DC current between a battery and inverter) as long as it doesn't have to flex, because the conductors are solid and not stranded.

Shielded is excellent for low power applications like instrumentation and radios, but horrible for high current applications, unless you are prepared to spend upwards of $50 a foot for adequate gauge. Plus, it would be a couple inches diameter. You see that kind of stuff on big radio towers and in labs.

I had a dual battery setup in my 40 I designed and built in 1986. It was to run a gigantic stereo. I could never hear my little stereo when I was driving home from band rehearsal and gigs (imagine that! ) so I designed and built a 6 channel, tr-amped 12 speaker system. I used a big marine battery as the aux battery, and built an entirely separate wire harness just for the Aux system. I charged the aux system through an isolator (low forward drop dual rectifier) I got from an RV place. It worked great for decades, no problems ever. The whole idea is you can run loads to your heart's content from the Aux system and not worry about being able to start and drive. Alternatively, if you pull a and leave your lights on, you can give yourself a jumpstart with just one jumper cable
Awesome info,thanks Jeff!

Sorry to hijack Chris!
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