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  #21  
Old 10-24-2013, 12:19 PM
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I think the only way for me to run chains would be 1.5" spacers, which I was kinda trying to avoid. Although Christo's new ones have me interested. http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/...acers_main.htm

I've already done a 1" Body Lift, which caused me to lower the radiator by 1" and spend a day figuring out a .5" steering spacer and firewall mods. There is simply no way to raise the body anymore without some serious linkage/line issues.

What is everyone using for chains? Obviously I need the smallest/lowest profile chain I can get. Maybe I'll see what I can do to make them fit and work.
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  #22  
Old 10-24-2013, 12:48 PM
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I've always wanted a set of the RUD chains you can get from Safari Ltd. They are low profile and can be installed without moving at all so you could throw them on after you're stuck if need be. Definitely a cut above the cheap walmart stuff in quality, not sure where the prices are.
I've always put it off because they are very tire size specific and between two trucks and changing tire sizes I can't ever settle on a size to buy... that said, I think I need a set for the 285/75-16's currently on the LC as I think a set of like sized Duratracs are in her near future.
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  #23  
Old 10-24-2013, 01:07 PM
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http://www.rudchain.com/
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  #24  
Old 10-24-2013, 02:17 PM
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I kind of like these for off road:

http://www.tirechainsupply.com/product219.html
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  #25  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:38 PM
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^Unfortunately, they wont work for me. Not only do they not have my size tire but judging from the picture, they add too much width.
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  #26  
Old 10-25-2013, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishy View Post
^Unfortunately, they wont work for me. Not only do they not have my size tire but judging from the picture, they add too much width.
Simple, 35's all summer, 33's w/chains for winter! It's only money right?

Speaking of chains it does look like 'tirechainsupply' has a diamond pattern that you can install without moving the truck. I think the diamonds would be a much smoother road ride if you needed them for that as there is always chain under your tire unlike that ladder style that rattles your teeth.

Looks like good chains cost real money to.
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-2001 Tacoma 2.7L Reg Cab 4x4 -Silver,my DD/trail truck, Icon/TC mid trav front, GYDT265/75-16C, Budbuilt Skids

-Kilo-Delta-Zero-Tango-Quebec-Tango-
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  #27  
Old 10-25-2013, 07:52 PM
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Haven't read the whole thread yet, but gotta stop the "shot shell" thing now. Sorry,but this has been done for decades. Anyone who actually learned to drive in the Midwest learned this trick. I learned it when I was 16. I also learned how to e brake a turn in both rear and front wheel drive cars. I learned to shift the case n ice and gear through corners. There's not really any new driving techniques out there
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  #28  
Old 10-25-2013, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearlemon View Post
Haven't read the whole thread yet, but gotta stop the "shot shell" thing now. Sorry,but this has been done for decades. Anyone who actually learned to drive in the Midwest learned this trick. I learned it when I was 16. I also learned how to e brake a turn in both rear and front wheel drive cars. I learned to shift the case n ice and gear through corners. There's not really any new driving techniques out there
Ah man... *bubble = burst*
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  #29  
Old 10-26-2013, 07:59 AM
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I would figure everyone here has at least once been sliding backwards down an icy hill and had to slap the tranny into drive and floor it. I have, and it saved my butt. I don't see where the opposite is any different. I say if you're running a tire size and combination that is large enough to break your drivetrain with just spinning your tires, then you're running on a thin line and its time to upgrade anyway. I agree with AxleIke and would much rather replace drivetrain parts than body work too.

I don't get the Ebrake thing at all. Seems like that would cause the rear end to try to pass you up on a downhill, much like having your proportioning valve adjusted too tight on the street.

Those who are saying to give it gas on a steep icy hill have obviously never been careening down an icy hill... the LAST thing you want is more speed. I was on a run and saw a Tacoma lock the brakes down a hill and pick up a significant amount of speed right into a pine tree... which proceeded to fold the ARB bumper over the hood, effectively sealing it shut so we couldn't get the fan out of the radiator. Dead rig. I came down nice and slow with my tire chains.
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  #30  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black95 View Post

Those who are saying to give it gas on a steep icy hill have obviously never been careening down an icy hill....
actually, if you're sliding and can feel your rear starting to break loose to pass, you do want to hit the gas to straighten the rig out and regain steering control
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