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Old 11-04-2013, 01:05 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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Default 2UZ-FE Starter on a UZJ-100

A week ago Sunday, my 99 LX470 didn't start right up. It took three turns of the key. I had the same experience a couple of times during the week. I've got 175k on the rig and this is the second time I have had the issues with the starter. The first time I had one of the Toyota shops replace with an OEM refurbished unit. I'll have to check my paper work to see how many years ago but it would definately pre-date when I picked up my FJ40 and started wrenching. This time I went with a new starter from NAPA. It was reasonably priced, has a lifetime warranty and did not require a core.

After the replacement, I opened up the OEM reman and plunger surface was very worn and very pitted. One of the contacts was very worn but the other seemed to be still thick enough. I would expect that new contacts and plunger would fix it right up. At some point I'll probably go ahead and do this so I have a spare ready to go.

This thread on MUD has very good detail on the work (including pictures) involved getting to the starter. A few items from my experience that are in the details of the thread that I found most helpfull include;
  • I removed the wiper washer tube and support struts so that I could hold the hood straight up with a ratchet strap attached to a d-ring on the rear bumper.
  • Removing the air filter box allowed me to kneel in the engine bay while removing/putting back in the intake manifold. A second set of hands would have eliminated the need to remove the air filter box.
  • I placed a couple of 1X12s accross the fenders so that I could get better access to the starter connections. A top side creeper would have been great for this job.
  • Disconnecting the fuel line at the filter worked just fine.
  • A long extension and magnetic pickup worked great for the manifold bolts/nuts
  • Regular pliers worked great for removing the injector clips using the "extended open" mode.
I took many notes and pictures during the tear down. The notes were great reference as I put it all back together - just check mark each item as it was done. The pictures were only needed for one vaccum hose. The FSM was only cracked to confirm the torque spec for the intake bolts/nuts and throttle body bolts/nuts - 13 foot pounds for both.

Overall, it was time consuming but not very difficult, new starter is in and works just fine. The club seems to have added quite a few rigs with the V-8 2UZ-FE engine and the starter is in the same location on all of them. When your go to replace your starter or contacts, let me know if you have any questions or would like hand with removing/installing the intake manifold.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:32 PM
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Great post, Ricardo, and your are correct that there are quite a few 2UZ-FE engines in the club these days. I'm guessing that your services will be put to good use in the foreseeable future! Good on ya!!
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:44 PM
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Ricardo, when you say "didn't start right up," did you just get a click? Like I'm used to hearing when contacts go bad...

Reason I ask is once every 50-80 starts my 100 will just crank and crank, and not catch. After a few seconds I just try again and it starts right up. But it's the opposite of my experience with starter contacts, seems more like an ignition deal. Just curious if you have ever experienced that, and/of if this fixed it.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:01 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Ricardo, when you say "didn't start right up," did you just get a click? Like I'm used to hearing when contacts go bad...

Reason I ask is once every 50-80 starts my 100 will just crank and crank, and not catch. After a few seconds I just try again and it starts right up. But it's the opposite of my experience with starter contacts, seems more like an ignition deal. Just curious if you have ever experienced that, and/of if this fixed it.
Well to be very specific...
  • The first time it was a click followed by a couple of week grrr, grrr (two turns) and then followed by a normal startup
  • The next time it was a click, followed by a click and then normal startup.
  • The next time it was a click and then normal startup.

In between each of those events, I did have normal startups - but just a few definately not 50-80. This time it was clear there was an re-occuring issue. I seem to recall when the first starter went out I went a month or so living with watching it progressively becoming more frequent before taking it in.

Since the replacement, starts have been rock solid. I read a ton of threads on MUD last week and don't recall any where the "no start" was indicated to occur as infrequently (every 50 - 80 starts) as what you are experiencing. Perhaps it started that way and by the time the person posted it had reached the point it was occuring frequently enough they had to deal with it.

If you don't have any codes, have a good battery and a relatively clean throttle body - it could be ignition or fuel related. That said, with the computer monitoring of these components - I would expect ignition/fuel issues would throw a code.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:32 PM
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nakman,
When this happens, look at your immobilizer light (little red flashy truck icon by the clock). If you don't have security clearance it will crank but not fire. Sometimes a new ECU fuse improves it. If it's cranking and that light is on then the immobilizer is the likely issue.

EDIT: it's not that the fuse burns, just corrodes enough to drop the voltage a hair or add some noise, wierd I know, but a popular 'mud fix.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:57 PM
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Good info here. Thanks for posting up.
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