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  #21  
Old 11-20-2013, 09:14 AM
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no new knuckle bearings?
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2013, 12:46 PM
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Nice thread and garage shop!
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2013, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
no new knuckle bearings?
Nice catch and good question! It's funny, I remembered to make mention that I thought I over shimmed a knuckle as it felt too tight and even highlighted rechecking them but never made mention of installing new the hardware. So the downside to updating the thread, is that the only time I have to do so is late at night and in doing so, I sometimes make mistakes and skip over parts of the build. I can assure you that all new trunnion bearings and shims were used. We will be installing new bearings, seals, etc, all the way around.
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2013, 11:18 PM
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Installed new seals and then both side axle shafts and birfs with plenty of grease. Always a messy job.



Then assembled everything in reverse order from above, including a hub from off our spare parts shelf to replace the broken unit.



You should notice we did not do an upgrade to the IFS vented rotors at this time to save a little cash. It will get done during a future routine brake job. Axle ready to put back under the rig:



Changing gears a little, we take a look at the Trail Gear front spring hanger. It is about 1.5 to 2 times thicker than the factory hangers making it super beefy for this application:







With the frame having already been prepped, we are able to make a few measurements and clamp the assembly into position:





And weld it into place:



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  #25  
Old 11-21-2013, 11:42 PM
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Next up per Trail Gear is welding the bump stops to the spring plates.





Now we can move onto the IFS steering box conversion. As it looks before we start, with the stock steering box already removed.



Removed the rubber filler piece:





Trail Gear's IFS steering mount kit:



Plates clamped into place as far forward on the frame as possible:



To create some working room, we unbolt the radiator from its supports but still leave it connected entirely to the motor so we won't lose any fluids. Then we gentle lift it out of our way using a strap and an engine host:



With the holes marked, we drill through the frame and weld the round tubes into the frame and smooth it all out:



Install the new steering box mount plates securely to the frame. Then test fit the IFS steering box to make sure the pitman arm clears.







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  #26  
Old 11-21-2013, 11:43 PM
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Everything clears so it is time to weld up the assembly:





And added gussets to each side of the frame just behind the new spring hanger assembly:





Once all the welds had cooled we returned the radiator to it normal mounting position. We will hold off on installing the box again as we will still need to install shook hoops.
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:52 AM
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Such a great thread!! One of the best I've found. Keep it up.
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  #28  
Old 11-25-2013, 11:23 PM
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Such a great thread!! One of the best I've found. Keep it up.
Thanks for the kind words
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  #29  
Old 11-25-2013, 11:23 PM
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Time to install the new front suspension. Here is a look at the front components we will be focusing on. Notice the spring plates the we already welded the bump stops onto have been already coated.



The new shackles include all new bushings and grease-able hardware. Some are not huge fans of the grease-able bolts as they are inherently weaker than a solid bolt. But our experience has shown that they are more than strong enough in this application. And that people are more likely to maintain (grease) their bushings when it is so easy for them to do so.





We bolt the new springs into place:









And then we are able to hang the front axle from the new springs.







Installed the wheel/tire combo the client has chosen to go with. FJ Crusier wheels with 35" Dick Cepek mud terrains. First look at it sitting on the 35's





We still need to install wheels spacers on the front axle, but they haven't arrived yet.
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  #30  
Old 12-02-2013, 01:57 AM
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We start off tackling the rear by a little more disassembling. We remove the stock gas tank skid:



Then remove the fuel tank after marking each side of all the lines with different colored tape to assure perfect reassembly. May seem a tad unnecessary but this is done so there will be no confusion later.



We now focus our attention to the removal of the stock spring and shackle hangers.









The new Trail Gear hangers as the arrived:



We lay out the new mounting positions for each spring hanger as per TG's instructions and tack weld them into place. TG offers two different mounting locations for the shackle hangers. One for the pickup (lighter applications) and one for the 4Runners (heavier applications). But based on our experience with these kits we chose to ignore both recommendations and located them to our own specifications. This will lead to a better shackle angle and take care of the "rear sag" problems most 4Runners have when all is said and done.





We will fully weld everything at a later date after some test fitting.
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