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  #11  
Old 12-24-2013, 10:36 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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I am inclined to think it is some electrical issue as well, that's why I qualified my post by stating what ignition I have and that I have OEM plugs.

Have you checked your spark plugs for indications of poor/weak spark?

An easy way to test your fuel pump would be to get a pressure gauge and tee it into the rubber discharge of your fuel pump. I think it should be 3-4 psi; I would have to look in the FSM to be sure. Having good pressure helps prevent fuel from vaporizing, so an electric fuel pump could help there. On the other hand, it may be masking other symptoms.
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:04 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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My red top blem in my 71 is almost 13 years since I put it into service and is starting to get soft, thus I have been having starting issues this winter. Since I have the "non-USA" distributor I also utilize the non-OEM ballast resistor in series with the coil positive lead. What I have been doing lately is jumping directly from the battery + post to the downstream side of the ballast resistor and she starts right up.

But I have also had the heat soak and stuff at high altitudes even with known good OEM pumps. Both on my 40s and my 60.

To speak to the original question, it is probably not harmful to put a mild electric pump upstream from the mechanical pump, just make sure that it isn't made for MPI, which uses a much higher pressure than TBI. My daughter's 60 had an electric in it when she bought it, it crapped out pretty quick. She got some Autozone generic replacement and it would put out so much pressure that it would stick her bowl needle and cause starvation. When we ditched it and put in an OEM mechanical everything started working like the factory intended.
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2013, 10:46 PM
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Crash Crash is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
<snip>
When we ditched it and put in an OEM mechanical everything started working like the factory intended.
Amen.
Happy New Year.
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