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  #11  
Old 03-13-2014, 02:27 PM
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I guess the point is if it won't run on starting fluid there's somewhere other than the carb you need to look first.
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2014, 03:19 PM
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Cool, thanks. No big explosions of any sort yet. I will check the manual to see what it says about timing, and my next thought is compression. Might have to borrow the FIL's tiller in the mean time...summer isn't going to wait on me.
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2014, 03:24 PM
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Just yank the flywheel and see if the key is sheared. or look and see how close the magnet is to the coil when you rotate it to near TDC... eyeballing it is OK for these purposes...
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2014, 04:03 PM
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Matt,

I have a tiller you could borrow if you would like. Probably not a monster like the one you're trying to start, but it does start, and tills...Let me know if you would like to use it.
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:26 PM
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can you try to verify that the valves are closing by doing a poor man's leakdown test?


maybe put it on TDC and squirt air into the spark plug hole?
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2014, 05:25 PM
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or look and see how close the magnet is to the coil when you rotate it to near TDC... eyeballing it is OK for these purposes...

The standard rule is to use a paper matchbook cover between the coil pickup and the flywheel - something like 0.017". Just rotate the flywheel slowly when done to be sure you don't have any metal-to-metal contact.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
or look and see how close the magnet is to the coil when you rotate it to near TDC... eyeballing it is OK for these purposes...

The standard rule is to use a paper matchbook cover between the coil pickup and the flywheel - something like 0.017". Just rotate the flywheel slowly when done to be sure you don't have any metal-to-metal contact.
yes great way to check the gap, I was saying how close it gets to the coil when it comes around, like if the key were sheared to the point that it won't even try to fire it'd be totally misalighned
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:13 PM
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Hey Matt, just doing a little browsing on the web, and saw this. Reminds me of your symptoms...

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ou...has-spark.html
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  #19  
Old 03-16-2014, 01:13 PM
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Thanks Kurt, the magnet is passing the pickup right before tdc. Gap is somewhere around .03 and should be .02 but I see no way to adjust and I'm getting spark. Pulled head and valves are operating ok. Back to carb?
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 03-17-2014 at 12:28 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-16-2014, 01:16 PM
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Not sure how to pull the flywheel or if I even need to


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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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