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Old 05-09-2014, 08:13 AM
BritKLR BritKLR is offline
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Default Emissions test crash and burn

Well I'm new to Colorado and I took my 1987 FJ60 (stock) to get emissions tested and registered and I'm lucky they didn't call the EPA on me!

Here's where I need help. The HC GPM reading was 15.3996 (limit 3.5000) Fail and the CO GPM reading was 149.5835 (limit 30.0000) Fail.

CO2 GPM was 790.3206 and NOx GPM was 0.5086 (limit 5.5000) Pass. Visual inspection Pass.

The paperwork states that high HC readings are a result of unburied or partially burned fuel and the high CO readings are a result of air/fuel mixture is too rich.

I have 232581 miles on a stock engine. Rebuilt the OEM carb 7-8 years ago with rebuild kit, stock Toyota exhaust, Cat. The truck has lived the last 10 years in the Midwest without any problems and no emissions testing. I brought the truck out to Colorado earlier this year and other then it not liking going up the steep mountain roads and having a tough time restarting after driving awhile (cooling fan works) it runs like a champ.

I can turn a wrench on almost anything on this truck, but in have no clue where to start on emissions. Any help would be greatly appreciated and/or a referal to a good Toyota carb/emissions machanic!

Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:15 AM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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I assume this means the carb need to be rejected. Is the HAC system working?
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:19 AM
BritKLR BritKLR is offline
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I forgot to mention....prior to going to the test I made sure the timing was spot on, adjusted the idle to around 650-750, added a bottle of heet and topped the fuel tank off with 87 octane. Not sure if any of that helped or hurt. I didn't adjust the car air/fuel mixture or any thing else.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:29 AM
BritKLR BritKLR is offline
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
I assume this means the carb need to be rejected. Is the HAC system working?

Thanks Dave.

Rejected=rejetted. I've been told that before, but I'm not sure where to get the right jet.

HAC....I believe so. The air pump and all it's subsystems are still attached. I guess I'd need to test each piece to determine if something isn't working properly. I have the 2F emissions FM for an 1980 2F, but I'm not sure if the systems are the same on a 1987.

Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:45 AM
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The stock jetting worked well for my '84 60. The HAC system is primitive but works well enough to pass the test IF everything else is working. The problems that I had to deal with to pass emissions involved a non-functioning ABV. When this valve fails to function, the output of the air pump doesn't make it into the exhaust and the cat can't function. It is possible that your cat is shot as well. Also, the air pump may not be moving enough air. There are other emissions systems that can cause problems but most if he problems I have experienced have been related to the air injection and cataylst.

The 1980 emissions manual should be correct for your truck.

You want to be able to measure a temperature rise between the inlet and the outlet of the cat. You can fake the ABV to always deliver air to the exhaust pipe,( if the ABV is working). If theABV is toast, you can bypass it for the test. Once you have air going into the exhaust combined with unburnt fuel, the cat will get really hot if it is working.
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
The stock jetting worked well for my '84 60. The HAC system is primitive but works well enough to pass the test IF everything else is working. The problems that I had to deal with to pass emissions involved a non-functioning ABV. When this valve fails to function, the output of the air pump doesn't make it into the exhaust and the cat can't function. It is possible that your cat is shot as well. Also, the air pump may not be moving enough air. There are other emissions systems that can cause problems but most if he problems I have experienced have been related to the air injection and cataylst.

The 1980 emissions manual should be correct for your truck.

You want to be able to measure a temperature rise between the inlet and the outlet of the cat. You can fake the ABV to always deliver air to the exhaust pipe,( if the ABV is working). If theABV is toast, you can bypass it for the test. Once you have air going into the exhaust combined with unburnt fuel, the cat will get really hot if it is working.
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I have a friend that is currently struggling and I think it's due to the ABV based on FSM tests. I have a laser temp reader if you need to borrow it (in SW Littleton), and it's helpful to have 2 people to do the FSM tests on the various bits.
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:53 AM
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As I recall, when I had issues passing in my 40 we had to retard timing quite a bit and lean out the mixture. It was sub-optimal for normal driving but achieved enough of a reduction to get passed.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:40 AM
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Get the emissions book, I have a digital copy if you need one. Test each system, pay attention to the Air injection system, that is usually the main culprit. I have some extra ABVs floating around but I know they can be fixed pretty easily. Is your air-pump still working?
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Old 05-09-2014, 03:14 PM
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My FJ40 air pump put out a feeble stream and after I replaced it, it put out a light wind. I tore down the old pump and the vanes had chunks missing from them. The next emission test (years ago) showed a 50% drop in CO.

So, you might consider taking your air pump apart if you don't feel much wind coming from it or suspect it's led a tough life.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:23 PM
BritKLR BritKLR is offline
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Thanks for all the help guys!

Once I have a spare minute I'll start studying all this great info!
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