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  #11  
Old 06-14-2007, 05:59 PM
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Yeah it's a bit of a bummer...it's not smoking badly, but something seems amiss. The comp test shall tell all. Although i did find a 98 5.7 TBI with great compression and all harness for $800...hmmmmmmmmm

Last year of TBI was 95. TBI was OBD1 and Vortec, 96 up, is OBD2
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2007, 09:47 AM
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Last year of TBI was 95. TBI was OBD1 and Vortec, 96 up, is OBD2
Thats what I was finding, they must have had the year wrong.
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2007, 09:51 AM
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Did the compression test on sunday.

120
120
120
120
119
120
121
120

So I'd say I don't have a compression problem. We didn't do a "leak down" as we didn't have that tool, but we figured if the compression is that close to eachother there "probably" isn't anything major wrong....most likely just the valve seals.

Interesting notes:


My temp sender is in the side of the block, under the ramhorn manifolds. Now with the 195 thermostat, she raises up to 220 degrees and the "rockects" down when the thermo opens to 180...then climbs back to ~200 where it resides and the fan starts to work.

Could that sender on the side be getting heat from the manifolds showing it's hotter than it really is???
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2007, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJBen View Post
Did the compression test on sunday.

120
120
120
120
119
120
121
120

So I'd say I don't have a compression problem. We didn't do a "leak down" as we didn't have that tool, but we figured if the compression is that close to eachother there "probably" isn't anything major wrong....most likely just the valve seals.

Interesting notes:


My temp sender is in the side of the block, under the ramhorn manifolds. Now with the 195 thermostat, she raises up to 220 degrees and the "rockects" down when the thermo opens to 180...then climbs back to ~200 where it resides and the fan starts to work.

Could that sender on the side be getting heat from the manifolds showing it's hotter than it really is???
It could....Rams Horns run hot so good possibility.

Do a wet comp test. Take a normal/dry test then add two squirts of motor oil into the cyl and recheck. If comp rises it shows loss if via cylinder damage/rings if it stays the same comp loss is valves. Your readings look great and consistent so I think the jugs are in good shape. I would say to the valve stem seals and run with it!
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