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Old 02-02-2008, 04:18 PM
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Default Replacing a wheel stud

I'm a bit stumped and could use some guidance. I am replacing a rear wheel stud on the FJ40. Thanks to Wes's post (#5) in Nakman's old thread I was able to walk right into Napa and get just the part I needed.

I'm following the Removal & Disassembly procedure on page 4-6 of Chassis and Body Manual and got as far as Step 4; loosen and remove the brake drum set bolts and here is where I am stumped. This is a picture of my brake drum.



I think the bolts are supposed to be in the two holes that are at about 7:00 and 11:00. Is this correct? Being that they are not there, I freaked out a bit but after searching on MUD it sounds like it is not unusual for the drum set bolts to be missing and with some beating by a BFH the brake drum should just loosen and pop right off. I know that many times beating on the metal with the BFH is going to be the appropriate step - but as this is my first time solo I thought I would check. What do you all think?
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Old 02-02-2008, 04:41 PM
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you don't need to beat it hard but tapping it with some force will loosen it enough where you should be able to get it started, then be able to pull it off. If it's still really right you can pull the little rubber gasket (if still there) on the opposite side and get a screwdriver to loosen the wheel cylinder. usually it just needs enough force to get the drum off that center flange of the axle, If it's more than that the brakes are holding it on.

HTH
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Old 02-02-2008, 05:33 PM
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So I immediately went out and started to beat on it (ok gently tap at first to see what would happen) and after knocking a bunch of rust dust it loosened up and popped right off. I'm not sure I like how it looked in there. The brake components are a bit to oxidized aren't they?



With the brake cover off, it was a straight forward process to knock the stripped
stud off, seat the new one in place.


Wes, your post was right on. A bit of firm persuading was all it took. Thanks
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:00 PM
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looks pretty decent in there... you could try and get the dust outta there or hose it off. Just don't breath that dust it's not good for you at all.

Nice to see your build coming along
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:28 PM
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That all looks just fine. I don't see a broken stud?
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:33 PM
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I think it was stripped
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Old 02-03-2008, 08:32 AM
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Nice Ricardo - brakes get dirty/rusty, you might try to spin your adjusters to see if they are frozen - if they aren't yet consider yourself lucky and do what you can to keep them from freezing up. FWIW I had to beat my drums pretty stinking hard to get them off the first time I took them off - guess that's why I just had to replace 3 out of 4 wheel cylinders last weekend (the extra rust that was holding the drum on also froze my wheel cylinders).
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Old 02-03-2008, 01:02 PM
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Photos look completely normal, rust-wise.

FWIW, there are times that simple BFH won't get the drum off. The usual problem is the center hole of the drum is rusted firmly onto the axle. A number of techniques that have worked for me in the past are:

1. Of course, make sure the adjusters are contracted from their normal operating adjustment if necessary. Often, there will be a ridge where the drum is not worn which will catch the shoes on the ridge on the inside of the drum.

2. Penetrating oil (REAL penetrating oil, NOT WD40!) on the interface between the drum center hole and the axle.

3. Heat. Heat the drum with a torch until it is almost too hot to touch. This will expand the drum hole off the axle. Make sure you wear gloves when you start removing the drum!
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Old 02-03-2008, 03:10 PM
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before i put it all back together, i usually put some antiseize where the drum contacts the axle shaft. helps keep it from rusting together again. usually, i can back the shoes of a few notches each, then wack the drum top and bottom and it will pop off. if it was anything other than a cruiser drum, i'd be afraid of cracking the drum, but in true fashion, cruisers are so overbuilt that the drums can handle it.
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