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  #11  
Old 04-30-2008, 08:10 AM
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um, panhard rod bushings? I always found that to be the source of the larger travel clunk, both front and rear..
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2008, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
I haven't done any grinding yet. It only clunks when I go through a big dip. I may do some grinding in the morning -- or I may throw everything in the truck and drive to Moab. I'm leaning towards the latter choice.
Matt,
I believe you still have the stock tie rod, correct? Nak has the Slee link so it is larger in diameter. I still have the stock tie rod also for the same reason. I have both Marlink's but just never got ambitious enough to making the TR fit the stock arms with plates. I've thought about breaking the bank and going for Christo's gorgeous billet control arms but I decided I would rather spend the money on a Diamond housing so I can run a Land Cruiser front diff and get the mini truck crap outta there.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2008, 10:09 AM
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Matt,
I believe you still have the stock tie rod, correct?
That's correct. That's a good point -- I'm probably smacking the control arms less than Tim is, given the narrower rod. I probably will grind the tops of the control arms a bit, but not today. I'm going to finish up some work, pack up my gear and hit the road to Moab in a few hours.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2008, 11:34 AM
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About the only time you should be hitting the control arm is when you turn. if you are hearing a clunk when you are driving down the road you have different issue, even if you hit a dip or rut. I did not think of this until later. So unless you are turning when you are hearing the klunk, you need to grind more. later robbie
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  #15  
Old 05-06-2008, 09:43 PM
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I still have some clunks, and am pretty sure it's not the tie rod hitting the control arm. Happens any time I compress the springs a lot or in a hurry, wheels straight, or not. Like I described to some of you in Moab, it sounds like a big log hitting the underside of a metal boat. Would those springs be twisting at all as they compress? Any lube I can put on there?

what if I were to cut up a bike tube then sleeve the ends of the spring.. hmmm..
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  #16  
Old 05-06-2008, 09:53 PM
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humor me... check the tightness of the panhard bushings, axle side. also, maybe pull them, look at the rubber lamination/cracking..

j
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  #17  
Old 05-07-2008, 07:31 AM
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Tim., did you install the front bumpstop drops inside the springs. If so, check that the lip on the metal cup that holds the rubber bump stop if not contacting the spring. This can happen if you use the caster plates since the springs are a little curved.
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  #18  
Old 05-07-2008, 08:24 AM
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John I couldn't budge those front panhard bolts.. they're tight. And it's more than just one side, it's actually all 4 corners but it's worse in front. Plus Matt has the same issue, and he put a new panhard rod on in front.

I'll check out the bump stops, thanks Christo I know what you're talking about as I thought the one side seemed really close to the spring going back in, Mike actually commented on that too. How would I bend that over to the center though? doesn't seem possible..
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:46 AM
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Did you reuse the control arm bolts? The FSM shows them has a non reusable item. That is how I correct my clunk after the lift
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2008, 09:19 AM
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I reused the back ones, but the lower ones are all new since they had to be longer to make it through the Slee plates. There also more of them now, down by the axle (3 per side).
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