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  #11  
Old 06-20-2008, 01:15 PM
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I decided the simple solution was just to put some "stop leak" in the oil and see what happens......."Not"!. Get another engine block next week....can't imagine anything except it being the rings.
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2008, 01:25 PM
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Can't you just rebore the existing block? Or, perhaps, only change the rings if the cylinders are undamaged?
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2008, 02:11 PM
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Gonna try a few more things since I have oil pressure fluxuations on the oil gauge, and varing oil stick levels when I check the oil. Replace PCV, oil sending unit, oil pump. By the way, just want to say it's been great working with Jesse over ATLR. Seems he willing to do whatever it takes to make the customer happy. GREAT Custom Service.........
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2008, 05:49 PM
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Hey CJ, 1 qt/thousand miles could be worn out engine leaking, or rings not sealing. Not Valdeze, not no compression at all, but somewhere in between. Do you have puddles were you park? If not, then what's your compression? Between those two, plus a plug reading, it should give a quick and easy indication of where the oil's going, well short of a, pardon the pun, short block.

I'm thinking puddles base on the lack of blue smoke I saw last Sunday. I worked on my daughter's car this morning, and talk about Valdeze!
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  #15  
Old 06-21-2008, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanglefoot View Post

I'm still trying to figure mine out. Whenever I get off the trail and back on the paved road I get a steady stream of blue smoke out the tailpipe for a mile or two and then it's clear again. Could the bumps or angles be causing oil to go where it's not supposed to be?



Eric
I have found when I run at steep angles, I get blue smoke out the pipe until I am on level ground. Maybe the oil is sloshing around on the top end?

Guessing here.

Drew
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  #16  
Old 06-22-2008, 07:07 PM
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Oh crap this is terrible news, I'm potentially picking up one of those rebuilt engines in Colorado Springs some time this week and this is definitely making me second guess the quality on those engines. I figured there was a reason they are only $1195 after you return your core. P.S. since it is a recently rebuilt engine is there any chance that maybe the rings just haven't completely seated yet? (forgive me if it's a dumb question but I'm not exactly an engine guru).
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  #17  
Old 06-23-2008, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beatdown83fj60 View Post
Oh crap this is terrible news, I'm potentially picking up one of those rebuilt engines in Colorado Springs some time this week and this is definitely making me second guess the quality on those engines. I figured there was a reason they are only $1195 after you return your core. P.S. since it is a recently rebuilt engine is there any chance that maybe the rings just haven't completely seated yet? (forgive me if it's a dumb question but I'm not exactly an engine guru).
Not a dumb question at all, and definitely something to consider. In personal experience with factory rings and a nice, coarse honed cylinder wall, they don't take more than a hundred or three miles to seat well, certainly not thousands of miles. I have heard of chrome rings taking longer and not even seating ever, but I have no first hand experience with that.

If you are thinking of buying a short or long block and putting it in yourself, you may also consider buying (or picking up for free) a builder for cheap and kitting it yourself. It's time consuming, but rewarding and great learning experience. I now have around 14k on the F I built for my 71 a couple years ago and continue to drive it every day and wheel her on weekends.

I now have two 2F and one F builder in my garage on stands and am trying to decide who's next :-)

My F cost about $150 in rings and bearings; the gasket/seal kit I already had lying around and I didn't bother to do any machining. Figure on another couple hundred for each of those. I bought a rebuild gasket/seal kit for my daughter's 22RE and it was around the same ~$100 or so as an F/2F kit. Machining might run between a hundred to two hundred, don't know how much a 22RE head costs to get done. I did my own on my F, basically cleaned everything up real good and lapped the valves with paste. Last 2F head I had a shop do was around $200 but that included new valves and springs.
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2008, 07:33 PM
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Too late, I just got back with the engine a few minutes ago . They have a pretty decent warranty on it and use rock auto parts (same as engnbldr) and I need this truck immediately as it is my dd plus I have been borrowing a car for a bit and need to return it. The good news is (I guess) that I got ripped off on a used engine from somebody on TTORA so I have two cores, and I plan on keeping one and slowly building it myself to learn how to do it. I can do a good number of things to a vehicle but engine work was never something I've even had experience with. I just hope my engine doesn't have the oil consumption problem but I have spoken with several other people on CO4x4 that have gone through APR and haven't had any problems so I think this might be an isolated incident. I'm also currently on the hunt for a place that has the space for me to do that where I can still save some cash to buy a house. Money rules everything around me lol.
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  #19  
Old 06-24-2008, 06:59 AM
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Not to worry! I think the problem was the original head which was brand new. I understand that 1 in about 1000 will have or get a broken valve guide. It looks like this other brand new head is holding up, also we put a new PCV, oil sensor, oil pump since my gauge was fluxuating oil levels. Seems like it's settled now. My advice, replace all the little additions to the engine like the PCV,oil sensor, etc.. since your putting in a new engine anyway. The cost isn't that much, and will help eliminate those little problems.. Your right, the warranty is pretty good.....
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  #20  
Old 06-24-2008, 06:47 PM
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We'll find out, I think the truck will be running next friday, or maybe one week later at the most and will also be coming back to me with a 5 speed instead of an auto I can finally do atleast some mild wheeling again I'll shut up now, I'm just STOKED.


Evergrnmtnman, did you buy a longblock or a short block? The reason I ask is because I bought a longblock and it came with a new oil pump. I was kind of wondering if I should go get an OEM oil pump because it is somewhat of an important part, although I've never heard anything bad about ANY rock auto parts including head gaskets etc. Also I haven't even looked at my engine too closely because it's stored at work but did it come with metal backed guides for the timing chain? Seems like I should throw mine on if the engine didn't come with them.
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