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  #11  
Old 06-23-2008, 11:33 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Totally agree with Wes about the puller versus pickle fork. Used both and there's no comparison. OTOH, all I own is a pickle fork so that is what I do most of my TREs with. TRE puller's on the list along there with a press, plasma cutter...gotta keep prioritizing :-)

Bit of advice: Often one of the most difficult parts of this job are getting the steering arms off the knuckles. Factory (or work-alike) SST would rock for getting that sucker off. I will say that a couple I have done came off (relatively) easy, but once they've been on there for a couple decades they can be some work.

Do the bottom retainers first, for whatever reason they always come off easier, then you can pound a drift up on the underside of the steering arm seat. Like I wrote, sometimes they come off reasonable, other times they can be a bear.
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2008, 09:50 AM
Cresso Cresso is offline
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The technique recommended in the Toyota manual worked really well for me. Use a brass punch and hit the tops of the steering arm studs, like you're trying to pound them down through the arms. A few good whacks and the conical washers will pop out. Also works well for the conical washers on the hubs.
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2008, 11:48 AM
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I have a gear puller that should work in place of the pickle fork. We'll find out tonight just how easy/hard the cone washer come out on the top and bottom caps. I think I'm in good shape on the bottoms as they easily seprated 1/8" once the nuts were removed.

I just got off the phone with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and have part number FA7590 (front axle kit, including trunion bearings) and new Timken wheel bearings and the Marlin heavy duty inner axle seals on the way. They should arrive on Friday.

Still need to order the new calipers and rotors, but expect to also have them on Friday.

I'm not too excited about all the pounding to seat the new bearing races in the hub and seat the wheel stud bolts. Does anyone know of a shop on the south end with a press that would do this?
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  #14  
Old 06-24-2008, 12:06 PM
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Just use the old race to set the new race and be careful not to get it too off center when it goes in or score the race surface. Otherwise your fine. I've always set mine like that.
Toyota usually has equivelant $ on reman calipers. rotors can be turned by carquest or napa unless they are too thin.

I can stop by one day after work and show you how to set the races if you want

oh.. the knuckle studs cone washers use a brass punch to tap on the studs. The cone washer will loosen right up.(you know, right before they shear )

are you using a knuckle centering tool to put the new knuckles on your 40 housing?
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2008, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl View Post
are you using a knuckle centering tool to put the new knuckles on your 40 housing?
I've used the old races to put on the new ones while listening for the distinctive ping for when it fully seats. In a moment of weakness while writing the thought of doing it 4 times and then having to deal with another 12 rounds with the bfh on the studs brought out the wimp in me. I suppose I'll "Toyota man up" and get it done.

Regarding the knuckle centering tool, I've not tried to get access to one. In my research the prevailing consensus has been that I'll be close enough reusing the shims from the FJ60 provided I am very careful about putting each one in the same location and orientation as it came off. As an added measure, I will be using the inner axle seal from Marlin that has a reputation for providing a better seal in those cases where the centering may not be exactly perfect. Seems like a good idea now, of course I'll be saying "what was I thinking?" if next year I'm jumping back in there because the seal starts leaking.

This might make an interesting poll question, for others that have done the disc brake conversion - did you use a knuckle centering tool or re-use the shims as they came off?
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  #16  
Old 06-24-2008, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
This might make an interesting poll question, for others that have done the disc brake conversion - did you use a knuckle centering tool or re-use the shims as they came off?
If you are just rebuilding the knuckle on the existing housing reusing the shims or replacing them with new ones with the same thinkness's is fine (at least IMHO) if you are putting the 60 knuckles on a different housing (like your 40) you need to measure it or build your own tool so the knuckle is centered properly. Last thing you want to do is rebuild the whole thing over again if it's causing seal failure because it's not shimmed properly. The marlin seals are better but if it's off enough they can fail. I wouldn't risk it esp when subzali has a tool.
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2008, 02:01 PM
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I haven't done a knuckle conversion yet, but if/when I do I will be using the tool to recenter the knuckles (since I now own it, but have it loaned out right now). But in your case it'd be easier to use the current shims like you said. My inner axle seals lasted about two years before they started leaking, and that was with a lot of wheeling, standard seals, and 0.012+ off to one side. I think you will be good for a few years.

Just pound the races in with a lead shot rubber mallet, using the tip Wes gave. With the studs you can tighten the lug nuts and it will suck the studs into place.
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  #18  
Old 06-24-2008, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cresso View Post
The technique recommended in the Toyota manual worked really well for me. Use a brass punch and hit the tops of the steering arm studs, like you're trying to pound them down through the arms. A few good whacks and the conical washers will pop out. Also works well for the conical washers on the hubs.
I've never had any trouble getting the cone washers off. It is getting the steering arm seat out of the knuckle bearing inner race that often gives me fits.
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  #19  
Old 06-24-2008, 04:21 PM
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The last time I did my front axle service was the first time that was an issue for me - ended up breaking the knuckle bearings to get the things out...
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  #20  
Old 06-24-2008, 04:23 PM
Cresso Cresso is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
I've never had any trouble getting the cone washers off. It is getting the steering arm seat out of the knuckle bearing inner race that often gives me fits.
Ohhh, I see. Mine lifted right off once the cone washers were out. Didn't realize I got lucky there.
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