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  #21  
Old 07-16-2008, 10:14 AM
teamextreme teamextreme is offline
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Thanks for all the great advice. The oily dudes will leave me traumatized for the majority of the day, however. Thanks for that.

I took a trip to Jim's last night to pick up at least a power window switch to get the windows working. They had one, $25, which seemed a little steep, but I got it anyway. Then it turns out the switch I bought was bad. At least with a switch installed on the pass. side now (even a bad one) the pass. side window can at least be operated from the driver's side now. The motor has a hard time getting the window up though. I'm pretty much convinced we should just convert to manual windows. It will be interesting to see how they handle this bad switch return. Won't be able to do it til next week though.

Here's another question...to convert the windows to manual, can I just get new internals, hand crank, etc and use the same doors, or should I just get a whole new set of complete doors? They quoted me $120 each for complete doors, btw. We do want to make some half doors, but it would be cheaper to start with a set with trashed uppers from a roll over. We could convert the existing ones though if we get another complete set of crank window doors.

As far as mod's planned, the first one is just going to be getting it fixed up and repairing all the little things that need attention, like windows, and dome light that doesn't work, and rear glass that has a difficult time going up. Then it's interior, tearing out all the carpet and side panels. Fabbing some side panels out of sheet steel and cutting in speakers and herculining the whole interior. Then some seat covers, a tool box, and a tuffy console so the top can come off. I'm going to have to disagree with the door fashionistas. No doors looks sweet on pretty much any rig, IMO. It doesn't scream ghetto, it screams I wheel my junk!

After that, it will be an SAS and some sliders. Probably have to do gearing and a locker when the SAS is done. That will kill the budget, but it's the right time to do it. Everything else can happen as time and money allows, such as cage, paint, bumpers, winch, t-case gears and/or double t-case.

I just have to remember it's the kid's truck, not mine, and he has to do the work (with my guidance) to learn some things, and come up with the money for parts. I think I get more into building this than him sometimes. It's cool to have a new canvas to work on and I've always dug mini's. That was option B when I bought my 40 years ago.

I definitely give props to Bill's truck (that's why I mentioned it in the OP). Ever since I saw the original on a Red Cone run a couple of years ago that's been our inspiration or goal for how this truck should look. It won't look nearly that pretty, ever, but I like the design. Someday I'll have to checkout Chili 2.
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2008, 12:06 PM
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I find that the FAQ in the truck and 4 runner forum on pirate has quite a bit of useful info, it's just hard to parse through, and you should prepare for lots of smack-talk interspersed with good info. These days, it seems to be more talk than walk, but the FAQ has still helped me on a number of occasions. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180
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  #23  
Old 07-16-2008, 01:01 PM
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Jim will stand behind his switch.
I think it would be easiest to go with new manual doors, but then, I've not done that. Really, it shouldn't be too hard to take the door apart and fix it good.

You may want to get doors with a good upper frame for your half doors. Gives you somewhere to hang the soft windows...

I made my side panels out of plywood, and put access doors in them. Covered them with Home Depot indoor/outdoor carpet. They are quiet, solid, and offer great storage. I think making side panels out of steel might make the thing sound like a tin can!

Let me know if I can help in any way.
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  #24  
Old 07-16-2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
I think it would be easiest to go with new manual doors, but then, I've not done that. Really, it shouldn't be too hard to take the door apart and fix it good.
With the exception of an actually failing motor, all doors have regulators and tracks that the window has to travel through. So converting to manual crank windows won't necessarily be the solution if the felt is gone or the frames are bent, which causes the glass to jam in the track. Open the doors and fix the mechanicals. If the motor is done, then maybe it's easier to just find a used motor than it will be to swap all the parts. Or not, dunno. I can tell you that manual windows also fail and they are not necessarily all that cheap (for good used or new) or easy to replace the regulators in either.
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  #25  
Old 07-16-2008, 03:37 PM
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looks like most people have gotten most of your questions answered as far as where to get parts and info on the web.

My 2 cents, buy some doors on CL or here that are manual. Keep the electric ones to cut into half ones. Bill is right on telling you to keep the frame on the doors, I just got done making my own door covers like Bill's. Huge difference when driving in the cold even with the top off.

Rear window problem could be related to a rusted track. My truck had the same problem, still sort of does. I took it apart cleaned as much as I could and greased/oiled all I could. It works pretty well but still looking for a new tailgate.

I also recommend plywood for the sides, my old runner had rear steel panels and besides the sound they got hotter than........well you know when they were in the sun with the top off or on.

Before buying parts from a yard check here and CL first. I got a ton of parts on both sites. I will be selling some stuff during rally, another great source, as will a bunch of other folks.

If you need some help or ???? just let me know.
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  #26  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:10 PM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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I too have a 1989 4runner.

I have vinyl covered plywood rear panels. 6x9's sound much better.
I like pirate for how-to stuff on the mini trucks.

The window switches get dusty. Like I tell my wife, "Hit the button like you MEAN it."
then the window switch works. It is probably just dirty.

Craigslist and the junkyards are the best part sources. Lots of parts interchange on the mini trucks.

Take the top off and enjoy it!
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  #27  
Old 07-25-2008, 01:42 PM
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I can't believe no one mentioned Oleg and IRBIS off road yet. Oleg is feeling better and back at work and their shop specializies in 4runners like Slee does 80/100 series Land Cruisers. Slee would also be a resource here as well.

Look at Yuri's Red Chile eater (I love that name)
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  #28  
Old 07-25-2008, 04:51 PM
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So far I've been able to keep ahead of the toothy maw of Yuri's truck...
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  #29  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:59 PM
teamextreme teamextreme is offline
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Sounds like a couple recommendations for plywood over steel for the interior rear panels. Plywood would definitely be cheaper, easier to work with, easier to procure, and potentially sound better, but I'm still concerned about weather resistance and mounting. I'll be herculining (or similar) whatever we use, so the outside will be ok, but do you paint or herculine the backside as well? Also, how thick do you use? Seems like using thick enough for strength would end up causing fitment issues inside, ie; interference with seats folding down, etc. I would guess 3/8" or 1/2" would be needed, but that seems awful thick to be installing down the sides.

BTW, the top got pulled and it's maiden voyage made to Chinamen's a week ago. The truck and the boy did great, only needed a strap on the last v-wedge obstacle.

Any recommendations for neoprene or similar waterproof seat covers for the rear split seats? Someone recommended Cabela's, but they didn't have any that would fit the split rear bench. Nor did several other places I checked.
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  #30  
Old 07-29-2008, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamextreme View Post
The truck and the boy did great, only needed a strap on the last v-wedge obstacle.

The boy or the truck
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