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Old 08-14-2008, 11:16 PM
RicardoJM's Avatar
RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,396
Default Wheel Bearing Preload

With the exception of installing the proportioning valve, I finally have the conversion buttoned up. I did have a challenge regarding my wheel bearing preload. When I put the hub and rotors on my pre-load was well over 20lbs. The spec should be much closer to 12. I took the rig for a short ride (maybe 5 miles) and when I put my hand to the hubs they were hot, very hot. I was very certain that I had all the parts in the right place, I had checked and rechecked everything when I encountered the high pre-load.

I was a bit stumped, but the more I thought about the parts involved it occured to me that I had reused the claw washer and nuts from the FJ60. At one point I had considered getting new ones, because it was clear someone had used the chisel method of removal/tightening - but decided they were ok. In retrospect, it should have been obvious these needed to be replaced with new. Here is a picture of the old claw washers.

Notice the groove made by the old bearings. This groove is what was causing my tight bearing pre-load. The groove allowed the washer to put more inward pressure on the bearings. After replacing the claw washer and nuts with new ones, my pre-load is right on spec. If you do a front axle job and replace your wheel bearings, I would recommend you also get new claw washers.
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
1999 LX 470
SOLD - 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
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Old 08-15-2008, 10:09 AM
Rzeppa's Avatar
Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
Cruise Moab Chairman
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kittredge CO, USA
Posts: 6,667

If the groove was only on one side you could have just turned them around so the non-grooved side was against the inner race. But new ones never hurt. Glad you got that sorted out.
Jeff Zepp
Kittredge CO USA
1971 & 1976 FJ40s, 1978 FJ45, 1987 FJ60
Rising Sun 4WD Club, TLCA #4063
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