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  #41  
Old 08-18-2008, 05:44 PM
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Got back my latest oil analysis.

Readings are good, looks like no coolant, fuel or moisture leakage past rings (this makes me content that the AFM 2-clicks rich is not washing the cylinder walls) and TBN was holding there with regular GTX.

According to the numbers my engine is consistent with other 22R engines at this change interval. The wear numbers are very low, single parts per million of important metals (copper, aluminum, iron, lead), so the engine is not wearing abnormally and the rings are not breaking in anymore. So I think I'm safe to switch over, if I decide to. From what it looks like I think the only thing I might gain with synthetic is the flash point increase, but since I don't have tons of insolubles I'm probably not burning much oil off and so that's not really a major problem.

BTW, this batch was the one I filled the engine with the week before Rubithon, so it's got a 2,700 miles of high RPM, high air temp highway pulls, a couple of days of hard and very dusty wheeling and a few weeks of equally hard commuting. So I'm pretty happy with that. You might notice that the silicon is 12 PPM and I run a stock Toyota air filter. Wonder what it would have looked like with a K&N?

FWIW, some of the things in the oil analysis to look at:
Boron - oil additives or anti-freeze additives
Zinc/phosphorous/calcium/magnesium/barium - oil additives
Iron – cylinders, liners, pistons, rings, valves, valve guides, bearings, gears, shafts, rust.
Aluminum – pistons, bearings, turbo chargers, pump vanes, thrust washers
Chromium - compression rings, anti-friction bearings, shafts, coolant additives
Copper – bearings, bushings, thrust washers, valve guides, injector shields, wet clutches
Lead – bearings, gear oil additives, fuel additives
Tin – bearings
Silver – anti friction bearings, silver solder, wrist pin bushings
Silicon – sand, dirt, anti foam oil additive, gasket sealant material, antifreeze additive
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 08-26-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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  #42  
Old 08-18-2008, 06:56 PM
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Looks like a great baseline!

So whatcha decide on for your flavor of oil? Seems like I remember Wally Mart had 5 qt jugs of Penn Platinum regularly priced around $20 last time I was there (Mobil1 a few bucks more). Not bad at all for PP; but it does require a trip into the great halls of WM
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
Looks like a great baseline!

So whatcha decide on for your flavor of oil? Seems like I remember Wally Mart had 5 qt jugs of Penn Platinum regularly priced around $20 last time I was there (Mobil1 a few bucks more). Not bad at all for PP; but it does require a trip into the great halls of WM
See, that's the thing. I wasn't down much after the trip and the numbers don't indicate that I'm burning much off or getting much wear. I might not switch over, dunno. I'm even content with the oil filter (standard Toyota, not the fancy Japanese made ones, either). Aw, who'm I fooling? I'll probably go to Castrol Syntec 10W30. ;-)
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:03 PM
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If your gonna stick with 3000 mile intervals, then might as well stick to dyno. Or try longer intervals and go with the bling oil.
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:09 PM
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If your gonna stick with 3000 mile intervals, then might as well stick to dyno. Or try longer intervals and go with the bling oil.
In all honesty, I think in the summer that would be the case. But I do like the way synthetic flows faster and builds pressure in the cold weather. I do think that makes a difference in engine life.
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:10 PM
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And the shear strength makes a difference in summer.

Got a supply of Valvoline Synpower waiting to go in when the motor breaks in. And running Synpower 20W50 in the scoot.

With extended OCIs the cost is about the same really.
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