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  #11  
Old 10-16-2008, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MDH33 View Post
Is oil pump failure always a sign of bearing/guides deteriorating?

sorry for the hijack Matt.
I take your meaning of 'oil pump failure' to be 'oil pump scoring'. Naw, it is a strong clue though. FWIW my oil pump had not failed, just scored badly (and more investigation discovered the mains and big ends were likewise scored badly, but fortunately not the crank or rods. Gotta love aluminum.). If it had, there would be a 100% correlation between oil pump failure and bearing/guide/cam failure!!


Worth taking a look at things while you are in there, IMO. Beats having to at a time not of your choosing!! The wear on the timing cover and broken pieces off of it had to go SOMEwhere!!
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2008, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
That sort of strikes me to be at the margin of what I think the service life of the OEM timing parts is supposed to be.
I tend to agree.

To add to the mayhem, the radiator had a pinhole leak, and when the head was pulled there was a bunch of Stop-Leak (evil, evil stuff) partially clogging small passageways. If the guy had fixed things correctly allowing the cooling system to build pressure and cool efficiently, even without changing the timing chain and HG things might have been fine. Coolant was old too, when I changed the radiator, but before I blew the HG. Corrosion kills. Doesn't old coolant contribute to galvanic corrosion due to chemical changes in the coolant itself?
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Old 10-16-2008, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Corrosion kills. Doesn't old coolant contribute to galvanic corrosion due to chemical changes in the coolant itself?
Yup, probably. Galvanic corrosion happens when dissimilar metals are immersed in an electrolyte. In the case of our engines, iron block and aluminum head bolted on (thus great electrical contact) are just waiting for the electrolyte to flow through, which we provide with coolant passages. That could be the acids left over from combustion, impurities in the water, etc. That's mainly why I think my HG went the distance, the distilled water that got flushed often. That is also why I think Toyota Red, Prestone green, whatever, is more of a non-factor if you use distilled water. Using tap water full of incident salt is probably the common denominator in HG failures, but I dunno. I do think the red stuff with phosphates works better with distilled water, where as the silicate green stuff is probably safer with water of unknown quality. The silicates are more active at preventing aluminum corrosion at the expense of wearing out pumps from the abrasion. But doing a phosphate wash or coat is a common corrosion protection technique, so I don't think Toyota Red is a bad coolant from a galvanic protection viewpoint.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2008, 05:43 PM
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Interesting, I hadn't realized that. I always use distilled water. The dealer does not.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2008, 06:26 PM
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Interesting, I hadn't realized that. I always use distilled water. The dealer does not.
I want to say that surprises me, but it doesn't. Let me believe they have water softeners at least. :-/
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