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  #11  
Old 10-24-2008, 10:22 AM
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Singlespeeds, 29'ers, etc.

I have an old frame that I converted to one speed. Fun, light and simple...yup. Kills my knees and most of the Front Range trails being brutal...yup. So I have not been keen to convert completely. Being a kid and probably in much better shape, that might not be an issue, but I grind my granny gear going up Falcon and Deer Creek and lots of places. Even shaving 5 or 6 lbs doesn't make a 34/20 gear any easier. I like that 22 tooth front!

Are 29" wheel the future? Nah, the 26" wheel still has advantages. First and foremost they are significantly stronger. The 29" wheel also means all your gears are something like 10% taller, so low gears aren't nearly as low as before. So if you like 22/34 or 22/32 in granny, with a 29" bike it's more like pushing a 22/30 or 22/26 (i.e. 3rd and 4th or so rather than 1st and 2nd in the rear cassette). Mostly it's not a big deal, but something to consider. Also 29" bikes will usually have a longer wheelbase, so switchbacks are just a bit tougher. The upside is that they apparently will roll over anything like a steam roller. Also right now the 26" tire selection is 10 times better than 29" tires, but that's changing quickly. But I dunno, I'm still running 26" wheels and it seems every time I get started saving for a new bike something happens to eat up my savings. New truck engine, Kirsten's tuition, taking a month and a half to be with my family. I just can't seem to get past $500 in the bike account.

Pedals. I run SPD, never had an issue. Lots of people like Eggbeaters and Time. Personally Time are fine but since I have all these common pedals to convert would mean 4 sets of pedals or another pair of dedicated shoes. So I just stick with what I have. Eggbeaters are light and reliable, but I found they are just too small and any more than an hour my feet get tired due to the lack of support under the soles. YMMV and it certainly does depend on the stiffness of the shoe (I run SIDI Dominator 5). For after work rides that would not be a problem and certainly for 'cross rides it would be OK.
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2008, 10:38 AM
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I thought the Dominator 5 was a pretty stiff shoe?

I'm wondering if the 29ers roll over everything because all the dugouts etc. were made by 26" tires. It's kinda like our trucks: back in the day 31" tires were the norm, then people started throwing 33s on to "roll" over the obstacles better. But then they became dugout again so 35s started becoming common. Just a thought.

Man I could spend a whole day jumping bike stores and trying out new stuff and learning about everything. It's nice having someone to lay it all out simple though RE: rear suspension designs. Thanks Dave and everybody else who's contributed, this is good stuff!
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  #13  
Old 10-24-2008, 10:40 AM
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The other thing I'm kinda scared of is customizing my cockpit, since my dad bought my current bike when I was 14 and let me "grow into it." But I'm sure it doesn't really fit now, and I know handlebar designs have changed (they all have risers now and "bullhorns" are a thing of the past apparently, even though they've saved my skin (and fingers) more than once). But I'd like to take my current bike in (if I do the teardown and rebuild) and have my headset, stem, bars, etc. all custom fit so I have good geometry.

Of course I think I would get all that if/when I were to buy a new bike anyway.
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2008, 10:50 AM
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As ususal, Dave you did a fantastic job covering the main points.

I am not a 29er at this point. Anything that gets me higher off the ground on a mtn bike to me, feels like I have farther to fall. haha...short guy mentality..

But there is definatley some factual benefits to it, Dave probably knows better then I. d\Definately not main stream yet. imo.

I think the Velo swap already went down or is this weekend. That is also a great place to look, as questions and find great deals.
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2008, 11:05 AM
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Veloswap is tomorrow. I'll be there, FWIW.

The reason 29" bikes are better is mostly momentum and rolling inertia. You remember physics, right? The mass is farther away from the axle, so they tend to carry more energy than a 26" wheel. Harder to accelerate, too. Also the larger diameter means more contact patch, so that factors in. I don't personally think it's got to do with obstacles being spaced or sized on 26" wheels, but I dunno. There's so many different variables with bikes, less spinning on obstacles than trucks, so stuff isn't dug out on the climbs as much as washed out from erosion. I do think hardtail vs. suspension and wheelbase of the bike and where my fat butt is positioned relative to the front/rear makes a significant difference in how a bike handles. A 10mm longer stem or bumping the saddle back 10mm changes the handling quite a bit.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Wow, a Seven. Sweet. That for those not familiar is a bike worth more than most of our trucks... Uber sweet bikes.
Gotta stay true to my east coast and FAT roots. I have a custom Seven axiom. For me Ti is the only way to go.

We should have another bike thread with pics and specs. I need to get out and ride with you Dave!
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  #17  
Old 10-24-2008, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl View Post
Gotta stay true to my east coast and FAT roots. I have a custom Seven axiom. For me Ti is the only way to go.

We should have another bike thread with pics and specs. I need to get out and ride with you Dave!
Speaking of which, we do have a little cycling group mailing list over on Yahoo. It's a private group and so the volume is very low (~150 emails per year) and no spam. You guys are welcome to join, I think Subzali is already on it. Basically it just emails group rides and stuff.

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/mudpigs/

BTW, my single speed is my first really good bike, a Rhygin Juke SS. Being from the east you may have heard of them. Stainless steel super tight handling bike. I dig it.
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  #18  
Old 10-24-2008, 11:58 AM
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I can't believe how many replies it took to mention Veloswap. Yes its tomarrow. If you've never been, you must go. Its bike sensory oveload. Look up Veloswap.com.
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  #19  
Old 10-24-2008, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
BTW, my single speed is my first really good bike, a Rhygin Juke SS. Being from the east you may have heard of them. Stainless steel super tight handling bike. I dig it.
Awesome. That's FAT roots right there. SS.. hard to work with, expensive but lasts forever. I did hear that there were some problems with cracking and inherent problem with SS. You need more chrome and the carbon in spots can make it weak. It's really not the best material for a bike. Problem is he put all his eggs in one basket with the SS and when his supplier discontinued it he was done.
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  #20  
Old 10-24-2008, 12:18 PM
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I went out and rode an '08 Epic Comp and an '09 Stumpjumper at lunch, gonna hit up the Santa Cruz dealer at some point. Both very smooth bikes with the Fox shocks, even with regular shoes on I was able to go over some pretty tough stuff, which is why I like the rear suspensions; your tire spends more time on the ground than it does bouncing around. For '09 Specialized changed the rear suspension design a bit, but since the two bikes I rode are intended for different applications anyway I figured it was a tough comparison. I feel that the Stumpy has more travel than I need and I would be losing performance vs. the Epic on stuff that I do; climbing, long distance pedaling, etc.

Another thing is Shimano vs. SRAM shifting - I've grown up on Shimano so I'm used to the "trigger finger" 2:1 shifting while SRAM has the "double-thumb" 1:1 shifting. I don't really know which one I like better, I guess it's just a matter of preference. They both work.

Found out if I want to upgrade my BB to Octalink on my Fisher, I would have to do crankset too (no surprise), it's probably time anyway, after 8 years of poor maintenance schedule and attacking a lot of the Front Range trails in a hard and determined fashion in all kinds of weather...

Also no provisions for disc mount on rear, so I'll probably stay v-brake on both ends, just upgrade my brake and shifter set so everything is tight again.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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