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Old 12-15-2008, 04:14 PM
steve948 steve948 is offline
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Default 22re not starting- I gotta be missing something

Howdy gents,
I'm hoping to get some help. My 87 22re 4Runner isn't starting. It never had any trouble until our first snow a couple of weeks ago. It ran fine the day before but would not start the next morning when it was cold and snowy. It fired right up the next afternoon and didn't have any trouble until it snowed last week. But again, it started as the day warmed up. All of this lead me to the cold start injector and switch. Replaced them with used parts from Jim's Toyota. Nothing, not even as the day warmed. I have spark. Now I'm thinking it's not getting gas. The battery is strong and the starter cranks but it will not turn over.

Any advice or is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Steve
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:39 PM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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Do you have a factory manual?

I would bypass the fuel cut-out in the AFM (you do this with a jumper in the DIAGNOSIS plug on the side of the engine fuse block). There is a circuit in the EFI that requires the AFM flapper door to be off zero for the fuel pump to run. That circuit itself probably isn't the problem unless the cold or wet is screwing with the AFM electronics. But it will tell you if the EFI fuel control is making a bad decision or not. If it starts and runs with that interlock bypassed, then you need to figure out what is making it unhappy. If it does not run with the fuel pump cut-out shorted, then I would be looking at shorted wires or maybe a flaky fuel pump relay.

There are temp sensors in the intake cooling system and an outside air temp sensor (in the AFM). It could be fooled by the cold and wet. I don't know how much weight the EFI ECU puts on outside air temp, if any. The EFI Coolant Temp sensor is pretty important to the EFI system and will make the engine run badly if it fails. There is also a coolant-dependent switch that controls the cold start injector (happens to be right next to the EFI coolant temp switch).

Or maybe the dampness is shorting a frayed wire someplace and it's not a temperature problem, but just an electrical gremlin. The wiring and plugs under the truck to the fuel pump are pretty susceptible to fraying and shorting.

IME, the cold start injector does not completely prevent the engine from starting, just makes it really tough. But with enough cranking eventually enough fuel gets into the system and it starts. It just takes a lot more time and it stumbles to catch.

If you don't have the books, I can only offer more help tomorrow when I can have the manuals in front of me.
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Old 12-15-2008, 05:44 PM
steve948 steve948 is offline
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Thanks Dave.
I don't have a FSM, only a Haynes. I just read about jumping the diagnosis plug. I'm gonna try that tomorrow when it's a bit warmer. Unfortunately, my truck is stuck outside at work.
Is the AFM in the air filter box area? My wife was cranking it while I listened for anything and I did hear what sounded like a flap opening and closing when the key was turned.
I'm not convinced just yet that the dampness has anything to do with it. Now that I think about it, I was up in the hills when it was cold and snowy the week before anything happened.
I'll give it another try tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Can you recommend a mechanic close to downtown Denver?

Thanks again.
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Old 12-16-2008, 04:21 PM
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make sure that the maf sensor is connected to the airbox securely.
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:47 AM
steve948 steve948 is offline
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It's on there. Is there a way to test or bypass it!
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Old 12-17-2008, 09:02 AM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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Attached a couple of the 1991 22R-E factory sections. First is the way to pull the ECU codes and see what's stored. That's file "26diagnosi.pdf".

Next, go ahead and check the VAF. This is the flapper part, most people call it the MAF (Mass Air Flow) or AFM (Air Flow Meter), but Toyota calls it the VAF. I think it's best not to call it a MAF because that is a device on some engines and so it's easily confused. That's file "33volumeai.pdf"

The other two are testing the fuel pump and fuel pressure control system. The file "28fuelpump.pdf" shows you how to bypass the ECU interlock to make the fuel pump run with the key. This is for diagnosis only! If it works, don't be tempted to leave a jumper in place, that is a good way to start your truck on fire.

If step 1 and maybe step 2 show anything, let me know I can upload difference sections to troubleshoot whatever the ECU tells you it thinks is wrong.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 08-26-2010 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:05 PM
steve948 steve948 is offline
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I checked the codes and get 11 blinks which doesn't look like is a valid code. No pauses, just 11 blinks in a row with a pause and then repeats. I'm outta time and need this fixed. I'm taking it to a garage. I have one in mind close to my house but do you have one that you recommend? Someone close would be great. I live near Alameda and Broadway and work near Washington and I-70.
Thanks a ton Dave.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:35 PM
steve948 steve948 is offline
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Hey Dave
thanks for the help. It turned out to be the fuel pump. Everything was great until the whole truck was stolen last week. Bummer.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:41 PM
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nakman nakman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve948 View Post
Hey Dave
thanks for the help. It turned out to be the fuel pump. Everything was great until the whole truck was stolen last week. Bummer.
What?! unbelievable. sorry, man.
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