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  #101  
Old 06-20-2012, 09:47 AM
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I always use the Wal-Mart brand 15w-40 dino oil in all of my diesels. In my 7.3's I changed it at 5K even though the Blackstone report said I could easily go to 7500 and still be safe. All of those trucks went 200K+ without an issue.

In my Dodge 6.7 I routinely ran the same oil to 10K based on the Blackstone reports. It was still well within the safety margins.

According to the Blackstone reports, the Wal-Mart oil has the same lubricity and anti wear additives that the higher priced name brands have, so I never saw the value of paying more for Rotella, Valvoline, etc. This is the same oil my father-in-law ran in his Caterpillar tractors and Kenworth dump trucks. I helped him maintain those rigs and rebuild engines and I never saw any sign of premature wear due to using the less expensive oil.

For me the same logic applies for synthetic oil. Unless you are going to run it for 10K+ miles using oil reports to guide you, I think you are just pouring money down the drain.

There Bill, I kicked it off so we can now have a proper oil arguement
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  #102  
Old 06-20-2012, 12:23 PM
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LOL
So... the Rotella that reportedly sludges... are we talking synth or dino?

Hmmm, I just can't get past the idea of running WallyWorld oil in my $12K motor... I've always been a Valvoline guy, and run Valvoline SynPower in the Chili. But SynPower is not diesel rated (and not cheap). By Valvoline blue premium you mean dino oil? There is always Motorcraft oil at WallyWorld and it is actually a) not too expensive and b) comes in 5 qt. jugs, making the math easier for 15 qt. oil changes without any left over.
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  #103  
Old 06-20-2012, 12:27 PM
J Kimmel J Kimmel is offline
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you're way overthinking it. go to autozone, by diesel rated valvoline blue, or whatever brand you want, and run it. No ones ever blown one up because of dino vs synthetic. Put the wrong oil in maybe but diesel formulated oil, you'll be fine.
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  #104  
Old 06-20-2012, 01:45 PM
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FWIW, the NAPA brand oil is the same as Valvoline. look on the back of the bottle. Save yourself some $$ when changing chili oil next time.
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  #105  
Old 06-20-2012, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
LOL
So... the Rotella that reportedly sludges... are we talking synth or dino?

Hmmm, I just can't get past the idea of running WallyWorld oil in my $12K motor... I've always been a Valvoline guy, and run Valvoline SynPower in the Chili. But SynPower is not diesel rated (and not cheap). By Valvoline blue premium you mean dino oil? There is always Motorcraft oil at WallyWorld and it is actually a) not too expensive and b) comes in 5 qt. jugs, making the math easier for 15 qt. oil changes without any left over.
Remember Walmart doesn't refine their own oil. They just buy a bazillion gallons a year from one of the 3 or 4 refiners that make all US motor oil, and slap it in a bottle with their brand on it. Read the bottles, they will tell you the oil meets all of the same specifications as the more expensive oils. Try one oil change with it, send the used sample in to Blackstone whenever you decide to change it and keep the results. Then do it all over again using your most expensive dino oil for comparison. Compare the results of the 2 oil reports, you will see no difference. Thats the best way to prove it to yourself, scientific evidence. Everything else is just marketing hype.
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  #106  
Old 06-20-2012, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
FWIW, the NAPA brand oil is the same as Valvoline. look on the back of the bottle. Save yourself some $$ when changing chili oil next time.
Same as SynPower? As in, refined by Valvoline?
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  #107  
Old 06-20-2012, 04:45 PM
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Same as SynPower? As in, refined by Valvoline?
Both are refined by Ashland. Like Randy said above, most oils come from a handful of refineries and they are rebadged to go to wherever retail outlet they need to go.
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  #108  
Old 06-20-2012, 06:25 PM
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What Jeremy and Randy said, even though I happen to run Rotella, and put next to no stock in the whole Rotella/sludge thing. Search both terms on FTE. You won't find much.

I prefer synthetic purely because of the cold start issue. I had to start mine with 15w-40after sitting outside in Crested Butte for a few days, and it was not a fun experience. I got it started, but it took awhile, and sounded like it was going to come apart for the first few minutes.

Also, count on having some oil around. If you beat on one of these for 5000 miles between changes, you'll have to add some.

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  #109  
Old 06-20-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
Both are refined by Ashland. Like Randy said above, most oils come from a handful of refineries and they are rebadged to go to wherever retail outlet they need to go.
Yep, the only difference between the various brands is they each have their own "secret" formula they give to the refiner to blend. The truth is they all use the same additives to combat foaming, give better lubricity, etc, etc. They just use them in different quantities to differentiate their product.
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  #110  
Old 06-20-2012, 09:39 PM
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Oh and it is no mystery either... it says it on the back of the bottle...
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