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  #291  
Old 02-11-2015, 10:44 AM
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Yeah silver solder with a MAPP Gas torch and acid flux is what I'd use like Jeff says.

They are Brass lines, but Silver solder would do both brass and copper anyways. Last time I soldered oil lines I got a few rods of silver solder (it's really hard, like welding rod almost, not soft like solder for electronics) from a HVAC friend. Maybe you can buy it locally or somebody you know does HAVC work?

It's easy to do, I'd just go for it if you've sweated pipes before and were happy with the results. very similar process.

can you link the product you used on the doors and frame, looks super slick....
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  #292  
Old 02-11-2015, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
Yeah silver solder with a MAPP Gas torch and acid flux is what I'd use like Jeff says.

They are Brass lines, but Silver solder would do both brass and copper anyways. Last time I soldered oil lines I got a few rods of silver solder (it's really hard, like welding rod almost, not soft like solder for electronics) from a HVAC friend. Maybe you can buy it locally or somebody you know does HAVC work?

It's easy to do, I'd just go for it if you've sweated pipes before and were happy with the results. very similar process.

can you link the product you used on the doors and frame, looks super slick....
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...nozzle-qt.html

thanks Marco for the information!

will see if I can source some silver solder rods and give it a go!
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  #293  
Old 02-14-2015, 12:33 AM
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will see if I can source some silver solder rods and give it a go!
I've never seen silver solder rods, although I would guess they exist, I've always bought rolls of it at welding places.
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  #294  
Old 02-14-2015, 08:28 AM
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It looks like i'm mixing things up, here's what i was thinking:

http://www.gacopper.com/BrazingRod.html

Maybe I was Brazing instead of soldering. I did use those rods though, flat kinda and really stiff. Not anything you could peel off a roll.
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  #295  
Old 02-18-2015, 06:03 PM
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Default maintenance log

This is just the maintenance log:

Engine rebuild at 47131 miles.
Used zddp additive in chevron delo oil.

Changed oil at 47469 feb 2015
Used 8 qts of
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added one 15oz can of stp engine oil zddp additive
also changed coolant and distilled water at same mileage ( when working on heater pipes)
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  #296  
Old 02-24-2015, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
It looks like i'm mixing things up, here's what i was thinking:

http://www.gacopper.com/BrazingRod.html

Maybe I was Brazing instead of soldering. I did use those rods though, flat kinda and really stiff. Not anything you could peel off a roll.
Alright so i bought some 15% silver brazing rod like marcos link and gave it a go...it wasn't pretty but i think its good..it seems to hold air and water..so thats an improvement thoughts? Pics stink so probably cant tell if its good or not....



I wound up "practicing" on the two original front pipes i replaced..then moved onto the one long rear pipe that was cracked...


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Think I will put them in and reconnect the rear heater and see how it goes...

Seemed a lot trickier than regular soldering and my mouth still tastes weird. Prolly sposed to wear a mask or something
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  #297  
Old 02-27-2015, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
It looks like i'm mixing things up, here's what i was thinking:

http://www.gacopper.com/BrazingRod.html

Maybe I was Brazing instead of soldering. I did use those rods though, flat kinda and really stiff. Not anything you could peel off a roll.
Okay, that makes sense. Silver brazing is quite common and is how radiator and heater cores are assembled/repaired. I've also known guys who braze auto body parts as well, less warping than welding.
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