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  #31  
Old 11-12-2008, 10:22 AM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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Matt: I used to freeze my nuts off in a Jeep CJ5 that never seemed to warm up. Tried a bunch of gauges and temp senders and stuff. Drove around with a budweiser box stuck behind the grill in the winter to keep the ice buildup on the floorboards down. The gauge barely got off the peg.

One spring day, I put in a hot thermostat (212?) on a whim. The temp gauge moved off of C and 3/4 of the way to H and I had real live HEAT in the rig for the first time EVER! I went back to NAPA and got one rated about 200 degrees. The gauge planted itself right in the middle. Cabin heat was still great too. I wish I had tried that 2 years sooner.

The lesson: Hotter T-stat fixed everything. 180 seems pretty darn cold to me, even for vintage stuff running low speeds and high altitudes.

(Might be time to put a fan clutch back on too.)
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  #32  
Old 11-12-2008, 02:11 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Fan clutch BACK on? ha ha - they never came with a fan clutch, this model year. It's working better now, I think my temp. sensor is messed up a little bit so the gauge is reading low, but my heater is blowing plenty hot these days. It seems like there's a plug or something that's getting stuck in the valve in the engine; if it starts blowing cold I just have to pop the hood and shake the valve and then it heats up again. I have no idea...

Basically, I think I'm out of the woods right now, I will think about other options if the problem persists. Thanks everybody!
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari intercooled turbo, Warn M12000, OEM CDL switch, cup holder, and hand throttle, Metric TLC leather, heated seats, JDM switches, Puma OBA
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  #33  
Old 11-15-2008, 10:25 AM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Have you tried putting on the hard top?
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  #34  
Old 11-15-2008, 11:47 PM
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lol it's on

And I put new weatherstripping on my driver door, didn't have time for the passenger door yet, but that helped a lot too
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TLCA# 13684
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions), so Puma OBA
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari intercooled turbo, Warn M12000, OEM CDL switch, cup holder, and hand throttle, Metric TLC leather, heated seats, JDM switches, Puma OBA
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #35  
Old 11-16-2008, 09:05 AM
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PabloCruise PabloCruise is offline
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Matt, if you are cooling the engine properly via the radiator, and the t-stat is working, then your cabin heat problem may be related to flow to the core.

I believe you surmised this in an earlier thread.

Have you removed the heater valve and checked/cleared it of debris?

When I took possession of my 40 the heater valve was clogged with scale. I could get very little flow. Further, my heater knob (labeled "Warm Pull" <- cracks me up) does not have enough throw to fully open and fully close the heat valve. So I offset the housing in spring and fall depending on if I want to be able to fully open, or fully close the valve.

Does this help?

Report back on the condition of the heater control valve that regulates flow to your core.
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  #36  
Old 11-16-2008, 10:38 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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TJ, mine is the same as you. Actually it's worse, because of the position of the hoses etc. (I think someone messed with the routing) I can't get the valve to mount to the firewall where it's supposed to. But that's not causing the problem. My heater knob will open it fully, it just won't close it.

I think my valve has scale on it too, which I'll have to address next summer or something, not now. All I have to do is pop the hood and jiggle the valve and then coolant starts flowing and everything heats up satisfactorily. It just seems like every winter I have to deal with something on the heating system to get it to work, and every time it's something different to figure out. Someday when I get time there's still some things I need to address on that system, but the whole truck is that way and has been since I got it, so as long as I know my radiator is working and my heater core is fine then I can figure out the rest of it to make sure I get heat. It kept us nice and warm on the Spooky Night Run (even though it wasn't awfully cold that night anyway).
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions), so Puma OBA
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari intercooled turbo, Warn M12000, OEM CDL switch, cup holder, and hand throttle, Metric TLC leather, heated seats, JDM switches, Puma OBA
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #37  
Old 11-16-2008, 01:19 PM
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PabloCruise PabloCruise is offline
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Hmm, make sure your routing is correct, ie not trying flow wrong way through valve and core...
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  #38  
Old 12-05-2008, 05:33 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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I took my valve off this afternoon and replaced it with a spool piece of heater tubing. Noticed an immediate difference in heat output, wish I woulda had that the past two days when it was so stinking cold - the heater would take the edge off the cold, but not much more. Now - bring it on!

Gotta try and fix a gas leak to the inside of the cab though - not sure where to begin with that one...

sigh
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TLCA# 13684
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions), so Puma OBA
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari intercooled turbo, Warn M12000, OEM CDL switch, cup holder, and hand throttle, Metric TLC leather, heated seats, JDM switches, Puma OBA
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #39  
Old 12-05-2008, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
I took my valve off this afternoon and replaced it with a spool piece of heater tubing. Noticed an immediate difference in heat output, wish I woulda had that the past two days when it was so stinking cold - the heater would take the edge off the cold, but not much more. Now - bring it on!

Gotta try and fix a gas leak to the inside of the cab though - not sure where to begin with that one...

sigh
Assuming you're referring to the heater control valve on the passenger side of the firewall, it sounds like it was either stuck mostly closed or clogged up with deposits.

As for the fuel smell, since 40 tanks are in the cab, there are lots of places that could cause that. Certainly, check underneath for rust-through. This will be the most common cause for a leak where there wasn't one before. Then check the neck hose and where it goes into the tank, and check the "separator" and it's attendant hoses.
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  #40  
Old 12-05-2008, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
I took my valve off this afternoon and replaced it with a spool piece of heater tubing. Noticed an immediate difference in heat output, wish I woulda had that the past two days when it was so stinking cold - the heater would take the edge off the cold, but not much more. Now - bring it on!

Gotta try and fix a gas leak to the inside of the cab though - not sure where to begin with that one...

sigh
Is it the tank seams? If it is find a radiator shop that will work on gas tanks and have it lined.
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