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  #31  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:48 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Is it adviseable to just replace the boot and repack with grease?
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #32  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
I like the idea of adjustable coilovers - better performance than stock and you can fine tune the ride height based on your load and preference. But the adjuster has a tendency to get corroded and seize up, leaving you stuck at wherever you set it to begin with.

I would think pretty much any similar length shock with an eye bolt at the bottom and a stud on the top should be compatible, although some might argue you should find a shock that's set up to match the spring rate of your coil.

A set of high end Fox shocks should do the trick...
IMO, this Fabtech arrangement is a great mod if you plan on never having to service it. Problem #1 is as you mentioned. Problem #2 is that the high-end Fox shocks that are found with this setup are rebuildable - but there are only 2 Fox locations in the country where they rebuild them (at ~$70 a pop). So you have to take them off over the weekend, mail them on Monday, wait and hopefully get them back Friday, reinstall them the next weekend. Not so good IMO.

And yeah, that OEM clamp pincher SST is making the boot replacement look a little scary.
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #33  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:56 AM
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I guess it depends on your plans and funds. If you can source a cheap Auto Zone CV axle with a lifetime warranty for ~ $75, and you are comfortable with that, then that is probably a better value prop over replacing the boots.

But compared to a $400 CV axle (per side), it might be financially more viable to try and just replace the boots. This assumes that you haven't run the current axle (with the hole in it) dry and filled it up with road debris.....
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  #34  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:56 AM
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?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2288
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #35  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:59 AM
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I just did a search on car-part.com, and there are a number of axle shafts listed for early Tundras in the $80-$125 range. Maybe that's an option?
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  #36  
Old 06-22-2012, 06:28 AM
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Just updating this thread. In 2011 I replaced my coilovers and one of my front CVs. Went to Jim's Got Parts and picked up a set of coilovers from a TRD Tundra, same as mine. Pulled the shocks out and threw in a set of Bilstein's. They cleaned up great and almost look brand new. The front dropped about 1/2" - 3/4", but that's ok with me.

On the rear, what a pain that shock replacement was. The truck had Ranchos on it, and the upper part of the shock is right below the bed. You have to get a small wrench or a crescent wrench on a flat machined on the end of the stud, then turn the nut off with another wrench, with both your hands squeezed between the frame rail and the bed. It may have been easier to pull the bed. Not kidding. My dad and I ended up having to cut the shock boot, hold the thing with a pipe wrench, and finally were able to work the thing off. The Bilsteins that I put on have an allen key on the end of the shaft, maybe that will work better. But I don't understand why Toyota couldn't have used an eye at the top?

The bottom was fun too. Rusted solid on there. Had to take the angle grinder and dremel and cut the eye in half and then split it off with a chisel, that was fun

Most difficult shock replacement ever.

Anyway, so this summer I've been doing some stuff too.

Got a $500 Truxedo Lo-Pro tonneau cover for $150 off Craigslist. I thought it was a good deal Got some Wolfstein's tonneau cover cleaner and protectant, so I'll give that a try sometime when I have some access to water.

I finally wanted to just replace my exhaust and my trailer hitch. So I went to Jim's and they had a hitch that was an OEM configuration, and a low-miles 2005 regular cab that I thought might be close enough for the stock exhaust to work.

The hitch wouldn't work with my dual pipes, so I had to get my exhaust off before messing with the hitch.

I wrestled the old pipes out, but when I put the 2005 y-pipe up to fit it in place, it was about 8" too short It was after 9pm after it had been 100 degrees that day, and I was working outside on pavement that was well above 100 degrees, so I wasn't in a good mood already, so I just took a deep breath, wrestled the pipes back under the truck, and went to work the next day.

Went back to Jim's and they had a 2002 AC, which after looking it up uses the same exhaust as mine, but it had more miles. Oh well. So we pulled that exhaust off to swap. After we got it off I realized it had a Dynomax kit on it, sweet. That's what I wanted anyway, and now I don't have to pay full retail for it

After a couple more gyrations with the bolts galling up and having to order more parts, last night I finally had a window to get this stuff replaced. Had to pull out the cordless drill and drill out two galled bolts so I could break the flanges for the y-pipe, and after wrestling the pipes out from under the truck again the new exhaust fitted up perfectly

Alright, so then I moved on to the trailer hitch. Turns out I had to pretty much fully disassemble the rear bumper, as the bracing for the chrome part of the bumper is integrated into the trailer hitch. Used a couple tires stacked to give me the height I needed to hold the hitch while I bolted it in place. This thing is burly; it has 3 10mm bolts on each side bolting it to the side of the frame, and 2 10mm bolts on each side bolting it to the bottom of the frame. The only thing I can't figure out is that on the build sheet for this truck that I got when I bought it I thought that it had the towing package on it. The wiring looks factory, but the hitch I pulled off certainly wasn't. The new one I put on matches what is on toyodiy.com, so I'm pretty confident it's the factory one. And all the bolt holes match up, including the one way forward on the frame rail that has a captured nut for me to use.

So after about 4 hours of pushing, pulling, getting metal chips in my hair and rust scale on my face, it was finally done. I chiseled the old exhaust into smaller pieces to fit in my bed, and also to get out some frustration over work and the fact that that exhaust has been a pain in my ____ for so long, so that felt good

Started up the truck, and man is it quiet. Just what I've been wanting for my DD. We'll see if it performs any differently, but I'm just glad to have gotten rid of those redneck chrome pipes out the back and that obnoxious loudness.

Some pics:
1-3: The trailer hitch I pulled off this thing. Kinda small looking to me, a large unsupported span, and mismatched bolt holes on the ends. Yikes

4-5: The new one. I had treeroot help me clean it up a bit, someone had been goober welding on it and some of that needed to be fixed, but overall it's a good unit.

Glad to have these projects done, now on to the next thing
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 10-26-2012 at 11:49 AM.
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  #37  
Old 08-22-2012, 07:59 PM
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Mmmm...good combination of Toyotas and bikes. Thanks again Randy!
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #38  
Old 08-22-2012, 08:00 PM
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Hopefully it'll work good for two bikes or two dirtbikes.
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #39  
Old 08-22-2012, 09:57 PM
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Looks good.

You ride a hard tail? Dang, I knew you were tough, but I had no idea! My brother and I were just marveling at a couple dudes on hard tails on a ride last week.

I'm not man enough for that.

Bike rack bar deal looks sharp. You should market them!
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  #40  
Old 08-23-2012, 07:48 AM
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eh - there's plenty of stuff already on the market for carrying bicycles in pickup trucks. I had additional needs of it being strong enough to hold dirtbikes as well. Furthermore, I needed a wheel stop for the dirtbike so I don't have to take the tonneau cover off every time I want to carry the KTM in the back (don't want the knobbies tearing up the vinyl you know). I think this will work. Now I just need to come up with some mods to carry up to 2 more bicycles or 1 more dirtbike. Need to figure out how to carry bicycles with thru-axles on them too.

Hardtail is no big deal. Riding cross bikes or single speeds on front range trails is for goonies. Believe me, if I had the money I wouldn't be riding a 12-year-old hardtail. For what it's worth it still rides great and as long as I can keep my legs and lungs strong I can make it up obstacles that a lot of guys on fancy-a$$ full suspensions dismount and walk up.
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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