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  #71  
Old 08-02-2009, 12:21 AM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Annnnnnnddddd..............its broken.

Glad I did a shake down run, as it could've been worse, but being close to home was nice.

Long story short: The truck works AWESOME. Nice ride on rollins pass, which, with the ATV's on the wet dirt, has turned hellish. Able to beat the suspension and it soaked it up.

Got to across the creek to the first obstacle, which is quite dug out, and the truck WALKED up it. Scrape and slide, no jamb up, other than the usual AT "issues" (no traction, and gotta heat the tires enough to get grip, time to get something better for sure)

Turned around there as I had to get back for dinner. Next thing I know, i've got some vibes and a weird "singing" noise.

Get out and notice the rear diff is pointed up, rather than at the tcase. Red Chilli and UB pull up behind and help get me going on diagnosis and fix. HUGE PROPS to both of those guys, especially UB for rolling in the dirt and grease with me. Pays to have such good friends. Very thankful for it.

Upon further inspection, the upper link mount gusset pulled the frame outward. Not much, but enough. Welds held great, frame, not so much. Trail fix: flip the link, and shorten the JJ back so there was zero pinion angle and drive it out.

Why? Because I'm dumb and totally got my axle forces wrong. On accel, my upper link is in Tension, NOT compression. I braced for Compression and ignored tension since I assumed tension would be only in reverse. Its opposite. Talking to UB, I realized my mistake and while I'm kicking myself, its not the worst thing.

Funny thing is, I did the lowers correctly, as I did them early on. Just got it in my head to do it this way while redoing the radius arm problem, even have a drawing on a sheet of paper with the force drawn incorrectly and the wrong bracing.

Solution: Cut out the brace, straigten the link mount. Weld angle iron over the strained area, to cover and to give a tie in to the bottom of the frame. I don't trust that metal anymore, though it only deformed, better to cover and spread the future load. Do the same on the other side of the mount. Put in beefy braces on BOTH sides of the mount.

Minor set back, but nothing that can't be figured. I'm VERY happy this happened 5 mins from a 2wd road, and an hour from home, rather than way the hell out somewhere. Certainly sympathizing with UB's WR frustration and disappointment on his first day at BHCC, but upon further consideration, those thoughts are a waste of my energy. Its a mistake to be sure, but its correctable and the inconvinence was much less than it could have been. Lesson Learned and will be corrected for.

Bill and Kevin had good suggestions for fixing up a more permanent solution (4link/y-link), but for the remainder of this season, I'm going to fix it as is, and try and get some wheeling in. I'm afraid that if I tried to work something else right now, I'd lose it. Tired of working on it, and want to play. The way I'm fixing it should completely eliminate this issue from ever repeating itself, as I'll use some good thick steel to replace.
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  #72  
Old 08-02-2009, 07:51 PM
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Sorry to hear about the set back, but I'm glad it happened in this situation rather than out on Chinaman's or HC.
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  #73  
Old 08-03-2009, 07:01 PM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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Isaac: I think your build is really cool. I dig the custom floorpan the most. Huge amount of work and I know it. (more work than I'm willing to do!)

Yeah, the framerails, while fully boxed, are really quite thin. I've burned a hole in mine with the welder with surprising ease. Things bend. No big deal. Add more metal and roll on until next "building season."
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  #74  
Old 08-04-2009, 09:22 AM
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Thanks Steve!

I've been looking into it, and have the fix fairly well sorted out...Just gotta take a few measurements at the steel yard, but I hope to box the frame with 3/16" channel.

Then, put LARGE scab plates on top of that, and then put my bracket back on, with braces forward AND backward, all on scab plates on top of the channel, and then gusset the bracket itself, as well as the braces.

I'm also going to reinforce the axle side bracket with a brace on the back and gussets on the front, and, if I can, put the tube pieces underneath the axle on the lower brackets.

Its an embarrassing oversight, but, I've learned a great deal from it, and won't make that mistake again...

BTW, PM'd with a guy on Pirate, who had similar issues, and he said simply, Scab plates are not enough for suspension. The inner frame is simply too thin, ~1/16". It will bend everytime. Plating it the way to go.
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  #75  
Old 08-23-2009, 11:05 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Got er all fixed up!

Here are some shots of the problem:

Ripped frame:



Some shots of the bending/warpage that occurred before the rip, and note my booger welding...I've gotten better, but its still a struggle:





The solution! My pops decided to get one of these....I love my old man





Problem section GONE!



The best part about plasma. This cut is straight off the cutter with just knocking it with a chisel, no hammer, just holding the chisel in my hand. Perfectly straight and clean.



That is my replacement piece. It's 5"x4"x.25 wall rectangular tube cut so it has a 5" face plus 2, 1.5" legs.

Replacement piece all cut out. Also my first shot at a circle...Close to round, but not quite. Practice will make perfect I hope.



Replacement all welded in:





Some of those welds were solid, but ugly. I'm starting to get better. I had a couple come out like this...Slowly getting better at upside down welding (also after I figured out that you have to rocket the gas pressure up to get clean welds, since CO2/Ar is heavier than air, welding upside down keeps gas from getting to the weld at the normal 20psi...35 works much better.

One of the better ones, I'd say all but about 4 welds turned out like this. Those 4 were before the gas revelation:



And, after quite a bit of work, the finished product:





I welded in that 1/4" thick replacement piece, then scab plated the bracket and brace with 3/16" plate. Then, I put two 3/16" gussets toward the back of the truck to help brace for the tension forces when the axle is in forward motion. I also added in a second brace going back to the horseshoe crossmember, a 1" square tube by 1/8" wall, and a 1/8" scab plate. This should add yet another counter force, which will get pulled on in tension, but just gives another surface to distribute the force.

Lastly, I decided to beef up the axle side mount too, mostly just because I could cut anything out I wanted with ease.

I took a piece of 3/16" plate, and sectioned it so it would fit inside the axle bracket. I then welded it in place, and, using a BFH, I massaged it around the axle and welded it to the tube. This, coupled with the gussets I already installed, should keep the axle side mount stationary as well:



I then painted everything, and put it back together. All fixed and ready for some trails.
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  #76  
Old 08-23-2009, 11:36 PM
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Awesome Isaac! Now get out there and find the next weak link!
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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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  #77  
Old 08-24-2009, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Awesome Isaac! Now get out there and find the next weak link!
Well, hopefully there aren't too many more...I think things should hold together now.
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  #78  
Old 08-24-2009, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
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Well, hopefully there aren't too many more...I think things should hold together now.
Holy Cross!!!
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I need an FJ40....
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  #79  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:19 AM
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Coolio Issac.

Man I need a welder.
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  #80  
Old 08-24-2009, 09:18 AM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Quote:
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Holy Cross!!!

Hopefully!

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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Coolio Issac.

Man I need a welder.
Thanks Dave!
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