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Old 06-15-2009, 09:45 PM
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Default How far back should I move my axle?

My back tires rub when the tire stuffs. I still need to clearance the bottom of the flares, but it's hitting pretty much the whole inner fender well, makes a horrendous noise particularly when it's really stuffed in there

According to world renown expedition expert, great guy, and family friend Scott Brady, I need to create a "lift block" that repositions my axle. His site says...
Quote:
For rear tire fitment the most critical adjustment is to center the axle in the wheelwell. This can be accomplished by replacing the springs with an engineered solution like Deaver, or use a .5" lift block with repositioned pin location.
After centering the axle, the fenders need to be trimmed along the wear marks and the hex bolts replaced with the fender washers and screws.
The tires still rub slightly under full compression, but have not caused any damage.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equip...bfg_mt_km.html


So my lift block will have a hole in it that allows the spring pin to rest inside, then it will have a pin that will poke down into the spring perch, and the distance between the hole and the pin is how far my axle moves. Simple enough, right? here's a drawing of the lift block:
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:47 PM
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So the question is, what should that distance be? I'm thinking .750", which is what I drew above. here's a picture:
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:56 AM
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All the way behind the bumper. Just think of the trails you can do with a super long wheel base, brutha!
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:48 AM
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You're starting down the mini truck path, so get to know our tools and techniques.
  1. Do nothing. It'll self clearance.
  2. Do a little more. Go 'wheeling and use hammer (I prefer the 3 lb Eastwing drilling hammer, YMMV) to smash sheet metal that has rubber on it
    Attachment 13260
  3. Be preventative. Use Sawz-All to make wheel wells bigger.
    Attachment 13259



Or I suppose you could be all nerdy and do it your way. Incidentally, if you look at the front edges of my back wheel wells, they are clearanced using method #1 with a little of #2. My front fenders are clearanced using method #2 just about exclusively.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 08-26-2010 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:53 AM
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Just to show the way it happens, the rears getting some additional clearance put into them. In my case the wheels are close to the rear lip and so either the front or the rear needed a little more space. So yeah, totally ghetto, but I let the tires tell me where I needed to cut and bend... BTW, the plastic flare (on mine it was just a little plastic rock guard) can be removed and that'll give you a bit more space, too.

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Old 06-16-2009, 08:05 AM
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I already did #2 Dave to my front wheel wells, I cut the inner fender then mashed over a pinch weld, so no more rubbing there. I can nick the front bumper occasionally, but I'm not going to worry about that one as I'll eventually get a different front bumper.

Matt this long wheelbase is noticeable- feels like a school bus when going around switchbacks, and pretty humbling when you know the 80 would have done it in one shot, and you're backing up for another line. But you do have a good idea, if only I had a parts 80 sitting outside with some free full floaters...
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:38 AM
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I've been running the self-clearancing method for some time, but eventually you end up mutilating your expensive tires (if sheet metal is involved)...



I have the same problem as you Tim, and it's worse on the driver's side for me. I think if I had an extra 1/4" to 1/2" clearance toward the back of the truck I'd be fine. Does someone make those plates for re-centering the spring pin?

Another option would be extending your bumpstops a bit to keep the tire out of the fender.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
I have the same problem as you Tim, and it's worse on the driver's side for me. I think if I had an extra 1/4" to 1/2" clearance toward the back of the truck I'd be fine. Does someone make those plates for re-centering the spring pin?

Another option would be extending your bumpstops a bit to keep the tire out of the fender.
You bloddy gol dang right someone makes those... do you know the OD of the spring pin off-hand? That's the only dimension that's holding us up from producing these, just need to know what size hole to put in there, and what size pin. But you're in for a set!
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:02 AM
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Hey Tim,

How are you liking those tires?
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:04 AM
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I used option #3 to fix mine.........

And yes, 4+ sells those relocation plates pre-made. I'm not sure if they come in different sizes though.
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