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  #11  
Old 08-27-2009, 10:24 PM
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If you don't care about the Toyota purist part what about a TBI unit off a 4.3 GM V6?

Stirring the pot
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2009, 11:17 PM
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meh - too much electrical with not enough gain to make it worthwhile IMO.
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:09 AM
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Personally if you have something you think you can fix and are willing to spend the time to fix it, then that is what I would do.

I tried that with my Weber carb and bought every jet they made for it and tried every combination I could. It always ran rich. I hated it.

My carbs can come anyway you like it. Since I already inspect them prior to shipping I can install the Hi-Altitude jets if you ask me to. It's not hard to do as they are mounted in the little caps on the bowl. If you get a carb from me it will say Hi-Alt on the plastic cover if I have rejetted it.

My carbs are simple, basic. Nothing fancy on them. They have one port for the distributor. They are not for everyone. Going back to the stock linkage on a vehicle that has all kinds of mods is not going to be a walk in the park. But for those with a stock carb or at least the linkage it's almost a plug and play option.

I agree 225 shipped is not cheap. But considering the other alternatives for those that don't want to rebuild it themselves it's a really good option.
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:17 AM
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I can help you rebuild and tune that weber, I've done a few of them and feel comfortable with it. Just let me know. I had a weber on my FJ60 before the v8 and loved it.. but I come from a long line of webers (porsches) so i am partial to them. I think we could get it tuned right in a day. i just need to bring all my jets over.

trollholescarbs seem like a nice bolt on solution though.... assuming it is jetted right when it gets here.
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:26 AM
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oh, and it's cheap.

http://www.jtoutfitters.com/weber-ca...ir-p-4671.html

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1583

sounds like the main needs to back off a little bit, so getting a few sizes smaller than what's in there would be all you need. Or we can throw one of mine in and i'll just get a replacement for the one we use. simple as that.
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2009, 01:04 PM
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Thanks everyone!

Based on all the feedback I think my plan of action will be to try a rebuild/rejet of the Weber and see how it goes. If that doesn't work, then maybe between the two Aisin carbs I got from Nathaniel I can get a good working stock unit and revert back...I knew I might one day regret selling the extra OEM air filter housing I had for a 2F

You guys know that I move slow but hopefully I'll get this tackled over the winter sometime.

Marco, so you have all sorts of jets and I would just need to get a rebuild kit or should I go ahead and pickup some jets appropriate for our elevation? Or, maybe I just need to get the carb off and apart to see what exactly I have to work with
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2009, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollhole View Post
It always ran rich. I hated it.
Doubt that would ever be a problem out here
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2009, 02:18 PM
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figure out what jets are in it and we'll go from there. I can see if I have ones that fall around what's in it. If i do, no need for you to buy any. It's easy to take apart and check.
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  #19  
Old 09-03-2009, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollhole View Post
Personally if you have something you think you can fix and are willing to spend the time to fix it, then that is what I would do.

I tried that with my Weber carb and bought every jet they made for it and tried every combination I could. It always ran rich. I hated it.

My carbs can come anyway you like it. Since I already inspect them prior to shipping I can install the Hi-Altitude jets if you ask me to. It's not hard to do as they are mounted in the little caps on the bowl. If you get a carb from me it will say Hi-Alt on the plastic cover if I have rejetted it.

My carbs are simple, basic. Nothing fancy on them. They have one port for the distributor. They are not for everyone. Going back to the stock linkage on a vehicle that has all kinds of mods is not going to be a walk in the park. But for those with a stock carb or at least the linkage it's almost a plug and play option.

I agree 225 shipped is not cheap. But considering the other alternatives for those that don't want to rebuild it themselves it's a really good option.
Well said Marshall. I have worked on many 40s with webers. They all had some issue or other, but they can work acceptably in my first hand experience. None of them worked as well as stock Aisan (not Aisin like hubs and t-cases LOL! ;-). Jim Chenoweth schooled me on that. Heck I probably have that backwards, but they are two different Toyota suppliers.

On Webers, it is fairly well known that the 32/36 is undersized for the F series engines. But the 38/38 will give poorer fuel economy due to the way the primary and secondary both open at the same rate. The early 2 BBL Aisans have a mechanical secondary and the later ones are vacuum operated, but in both cases the secondary only opens when called upon, allowing much better fuel economy. Plus I hate the electric choke on Webers and much prefer the operator-operated choke of the Aisans.

If it were my rig I would either go with a new Aisan or a Jim Chenoweth rebuild. I have one of the former in my 1978 FJ45 and one of the latter in each of my FJ40s.
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  #20  
Old 09-03-2009, 12:13 AM
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I just opened this thread...saw it float by a few times...whoops. Here is your answer

bought all my jets from www.carbs.net a little spendy but I guess about average.

5280 elevation
Weber 38/38

* 135 Main------------->73801.135
* 190 or 200 Air------->77201.200 Either will work but depends on altitude if lean or rich.
* 50 Idle Big----------->74409.050
* 50 Idle Small-------->74403.050
* 70 Pump------------->76215.070 Weber came with the 70 pump


A good rule for adjusting the jets is one stop for every 3000 feet in elevation. Use the main jets for major changes and the air for fine tuning.

I have the 38 DGEV on my 78. I went through tons of $5.00 jets to get it right. The most important thing to check is the adapter that comes with most Webers. It is usually two plates and the screws are too long. You will never be able to cure the vacuum leaks on a Weber unless you grind off the last two threads on both sets of screws. I did this and no longer have any vacuum leaks or that, oh so nice, whistling noise under the hood.
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