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  #51  
Old 02-23-2010, 06:07 PM
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Ok I measured my cat temps just now.. 344 going in, then 290 out, then 250 going into the second one, then 300 going out. Measured 400 right at the Y pipe.. oh and someone set this thing to Celcius, sorry about that I can convert later I'm cooking dinner right now.

Oh and it gets better, my CEL came on at lunch today. I think my little solder job on the temp sensor wire must have come undone, it was cold out when I did it and I am a terrible solderer anyway.. I will pull the code later tonight once the kids are in bed to see if it's 401 again, if it's 402 then I've got the other side to the EGR issue now, and if it's 420 then I need cats right? stay tuned...
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  #52  
Old 02-23-2010, 07:35 PM
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Here's a good primer on catalytic converter operation - its from Toyota

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h64.pdf

It also gets into oxygen sensors too.

At the end of the article it describes a test comparing the signals from the O2 sensors upstream and downstream of the cats to determine the function of the cats.
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  #53  
Old 02-23-2010, 08:11 PM
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So do you think I need new cats Bruce? I just checked and it's 401 again, I fixed those wires together better this time am about to take it out for a spin to see if the CEL stays off.
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  #54  
Old 02-23-2010, 08:39 PM
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There are a bunch of things that can cause high NOx. There are several things that can cause high CO. To get high CO and high NOx at the same time, I think there are few possible causes - weak cats would do it. The TWC efficiency test decribed in the article looks pretty simple for a shop that has the diagnostic gear. It should determine whether its the cats, the sensor(s) or something else. Also the temp rise you measured seems pretty weak. You want to see 750F (400C) for efficient cat operation.

There is also a comment in the article mentioning coolant contamination as being bad for cats. You've pushed a few quarts of coolant through your exhaust, haven't you?
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:40 PM
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Ok I just got back from driving 35 miles, about 45 minutes. Front of the first cat is 615 F, then 616. the second cat measures 607 then 673. While I was at it, both diffs measured 97, the transmission pan 109, oil pan 165 and t-case drain plug 118.5. Once you get under there with the laser thermometer it's hard to control yourself..


I read through that article, thanks for that. I didn't see any numbers in the 700's though.. maybe since it's cold out? Sounds like I probably do need new cats.. they are original (168,400 miles) plus they may have been gently rubbed upon rocks a few times. I've got a rattle somewhere too, and adding more hose clamps didn't completely fix it last time I was messing with it.

Yes I did burn some coolant, probably a gallon of it over a month long period. That would have been just before my head gasket was replaced July 2002 with 111516 miles. then in November of 2002 and 114247 miles I had a P0420 CEL, and received two new O2 sensors.
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  #56  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:57 PM
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[QUOTE=nakman;<snip> And yes Steve the new air filters are washable, but I have had questionable success with that.. usually the air gun doesn't blow all the dirt out, then the water just turns the dust to mud, then the whole thing looks terrible, especially when compared to a new one.
<snip>

I feel the same way about washing a paper air filter, never having had a washable paper filter element before. They don't look bright and shiny when the element dries and they are mighty wrinkled. Robbie, or anyone else, have any comments about repeated washings of the OEM paper air filter for an 80?
BVB informed me that the differences between the cat inlet and outlet temps should be two or three hundred degrees if it is working properly. I wouldn't think air temps would drop the exhaust temps much at all when everything is operating properly. The burning of the NOx and other emission contaminants by the cat is what causes the inlet/outlet temp variance and if the temp difference is less than 100 degrees, then there isn't much catalytic conversion going on. Hope that isn't too redundant.
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:05 PM
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Last thought, is if I need to get new cats then I may as well just get all new exhaust from the Y-pipe back, right? Then I can get the fancy over the frame deal that UB and Romer have... who do you guys recommend again?

I am presuming the shop would have a good way to test the current O2 sensors? And I've never bought a muffler in my life, what kind of muffler do I need? This is starting to feel expensive, I'm glad I got that fridge last week otherwise it would have never happened!
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  #58  
Old 02-23-2010, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
This is starting to feel expensive..
P.O. box in..
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  #59  
Old 02-24-2010, 07:53 AM
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I woud look to see if the VSV is bad before throwing $$$ at the cats. I have 170K on the cats on the LX and the Nox and CO were low. I can post the #'s, but the NOx was at 5 or 7, and Brian indicated the EGR was flowing well.
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  #60  
Old 02-24-2010, 08:49 AM
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I think my VSV has been replaced, when the 401 issue was dealt with a couple years ago. I'll have to check my folder of receipts though.

What do you guys think of this setup http://forum.ih8mud.com/ih8mud-com-v...t-upgrade.html
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