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  #61  
Old 12-08-2009, 10:54 PM
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Ok here's what' I'm thinking tonight- we make some little tapered feet that will support some 1" square tubing, then bolt those through the topper. Do two or three sets of these, probably three.

Just need to figure out how to then mate that with the RTT, my thought there is drill some somewhat permanent U-bolts through the outer frame of the RTT then just clamp it to the ends of these square bars, outboard of the feet. Inside, we mate more square tubing to the same through bolts, then tie those down to the floor/wheel wells somehow.

Take the RTT off, and you're left with a rack that will do basic Home Depot duties.. the base could also be built upwards and sideways using custom elbows, etc. for a more expedition rack, if desired.

Here's a picture of a foot, with one of the square tubes installed. Thoughts?
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  #62  
Old 12-09-2009, 06:29 AM
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Good idea. You know you're on the right track when Yakima and Thule both have similar towers that can be bolted straight to the roof. I would suggest instead of generic 1" square tube that you make it compatible with either of the existing roof bars so that you can take advantage of all the possible mounts for bikes and skis and stuff, too.

You might need to make it taller, a few inches off the roof. The first time you try and mount anything and realize that your bolts hit the roof... Also nothing 4 feet long and only 1" across is going to be perfectly rigid and having your junk bouncing off the topper roof will drive you batty.

I'll have to snap a photo sometime, but I have a permanent mount for Yakima cross bars on my WilderNest. Nothing more than a piece of aluminum flat stock bent into a 'U' with the plastic clamps bolted on. It's probably not enough for a RTT, but about as simple a way to mount cross bars as I've ever come up with.
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  #63  
Old 12-09-2009, 08:09 AM
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I didn't know that you could bolt the Yakima and Thule ones direct, I thought they all had to go into channels or something.. How about that, learned something.

For cross bars I have been thinking of using aluminum T-slot extrusions, in leu of standard Yakima and/or Thule.. thinking it'll give me just as many, if not more, mounting options for future accessories. http://www.automation4less.com/store...s.asp?cat=1116

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Old 12-09-2009, 08:09 AM
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Tim, when I was reading your description for the part before I saw the picture, I was envisioning it going on the inside, underneath where the rack would be (like Dave showed). This support would be just like what you designed, except it would be shaped to match the contour on the underside of the topper and would accept aluminum supports that could be removed when the tent isn't on the top.

Edit: Like the extruded aluminum supports, which could be customized for a shelf system in the bed too.

I was thinking the same thing as Dave: I already have a bunch of Yakima stuff, so whatever I put on the roof will likely be Yakima so I can use my other parts. Also, the bolts on the bottom of my RTT need 3-4 inches of clearance to attach.

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Old 12-09-2009, 08:17 AM
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I know what you're saying about bolt clearance.. but I've already written off the cheapo mounting system that came with my even more cheapo Mombossa RTT, so I'm scrapping it all- I'll do U-bolts that will only need an inch or so below the cross bars, which should be easy to do outside of the feet as the topper tapers away.

And yes a similar structure will be inside, and could also use the extrusions.
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  #66  
Old 12-09-2009, 08:45 AM
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Tim, stop by the shop when you have time. We have all the RhinoRack stuff on display. They have all the solutions that you might want.

http://www.rhinorack.com/rhino_custo...ductRange.aspx
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  #67  
Old 12-09-2009, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDH33 View Post
After using our double cab for camping all week, I've determined we need a taller topper. I had gear stacked to the ceiling and it made loading/unloading at camp a chore. I also could not fully open my Engel 45 fridge all the way, which made retrieving tricky. Looking at the ARE website, it looks like the MX topper would be a good choice. It might be better for supporting the RTT on a rack since it has a lot more fiberglass on the pillars and around the windows. Glad I had a shake down with the current low topper before I ordered the new one.

Something like this bolted to the side of the taller topper would keep the load bars low and distribute weight:



This is the setup I run on my Dodge truck. I have three bars going across my shell and it works great. The nice thing is that I can pull the racks of in minutes or the RTT with the racks if I have 3 or more friends there. With three bars across it is plenty strong nadno wear on the shell.

I would think about the ease of removal, as gas prices go the less on the roof the better.

Also I have the Can-Back on my 4Runner, I had the RTT mounted on their and the cab of the truck. I ran only two bars but really suggest three unless you have the really nice solid tent.
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  #68  
Old 12-09-2009, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRunner View Post
This is the setup I run on my Dodge truck. I have three bars going across my shell and it works great. The nice thing is that I can pull the racks of in minutes or the RTT with the racks if I have 3 or more friends there. With three bars across it is plenty strong nadno wear on the shell.

I would think about the ease of removal, as gas prices go the less on the roof the better.

Also I have the Can-Back on my 4Runner, I had the RTT mounted on their and the cab of the truck. I ran only two bars but really suggest three unless you have the really nice solid tent.
Good info, Tom. Thanks. Have you seen any cracking in your fiberglass topper from the weight of the RTT using that type of rack?
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  #69  
Old 12-09-2009, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDH33 View Post
Good info, Tom. Thanks. Have you seen any cracking in your fiberglass topper from the weight of the RTT using that type of rack?
That would be my concern with the Side Loaders, putting a lot of weight on those bolts in a funny way would try and crack the fiberglass. With a foot the bolts just keep the rack and stuff from flying off, the weight of sleeping Nakaris is spread on the foot. Yakima makes what's called a Top Loader for the 1A towers that I think would be a better choice. The reason people don't like them is that it makes the rack pretty tall.
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  #70  
Old 12-09-2009, 11:15 AM
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I agree, those isolated attachment points, particularly ones on the vertical sidewall of the topper, are a big liability. Particularly when there's a RTT up there shaking back and forth all day on the washboardy fire road. Forget about when you're sleeping, it's the constant shaking during driving that will ultimately wear that fiberglass, IMO. And why I think going with top mounted and internally supported is the way to roll..
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