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  #71  
Old 12-09-2009, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
I agree, those isolated attachment points, particularly ones on the vertical sidewall of the topper, are a big liability. Particularly when there's a RTT up there shaking back and forth all day on the washboardy fire road. Forget about when you're sleeping, it's the constant shaking during driving that will ultimately wear that fiberglass, IMO. And why I think going with top mounted and internally supported is the way to roll..


I think, ultimately, that is the way to go too but I know I won't be able to build the internal stuff the way I want before I'm likely to use the tent again. So, hopefully I can sneak in a few trips without an internal support system without wrecking the topper.

Looking forward to seeing what you design for inside.
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Old 12-09-2009, 01:13 PM
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I think, ultimately, that is the way to go too but I know I won't be able to build the internal stuff the way I want before I'm likely to use the tent again. So, hopefully I can sneak in a few trips without an internal support system without wrecking the topper.

Looking forward to seeing what you design for inside.
I wouldn't worry. Use three cross bars and a tower with a wide foot and nothing bad will happen in the near future. WilderNests only start developing stress cracks after 20 years and even then it's nothing horrible. Nakman is belt and suspenders kinda fella, though. I like the internal bracing ultimately, but I don't see that it's critical. If there are only two cross bars, then I think it becomes more important quicker, that I could see.
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  #73  
Old 12-09-2009, 01:46 PM
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Silver is the new black... soon my white wagon wheels will be all the rage again.

edit: I was still reading page one when I commented.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:05 PM
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No cracks in the shell yet, but I have a thick sidewall. Support on the inside would be nice and if I used it all the time I would think about it.

One way would be to fiberglass in a piece of solid wood on the inside along the entire length. Then on the outside a drilling a larger hole and installing a tube in it. Use a thicker, 1/8" maybe, rubber pad under the mounting bracket and use a nylon locking nut on the inside with whatever bolt you think will work best. I think by adding the wood you will be decreasing the pivot point and releasing some of the stress on the shell.

I know there are many other ways to do it but keeping weight down and price is what I look at usually. Oh and for the wood I would use a Hardwood and a tube with a washer attached to the end on the inside, bad explanation I know.
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  #75  
Old 12-09-2009, 10:27 PM
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No cracks in the shell yet, but I have a thick sidewall. Support on the inside would be nice and if I used it all the time I would think about it.

One way would be to fiberglass in a piece of solid wood on the inside along the entire length. Then on the outside a drilling a larger hole and installing a tube in it. Use a thicker, 1/8" maybe, rubber pad under the mounting bracket and use a nylon locking nut on the inside with whatever bolt you think will work best. I think by adding the wood you will be decreasing the pivot point and releasing some of the stress on the shell.

I know there are many other ways to do it but keeping weight down and price is what I look at usually. Oh and for the wood I would use a Hardwood and a tube with a washer attached to the end on the inside, bad explanation I know.
That's a great explanation and sounds like it would work. I'm just still a little hesitant to consider all that drilling through a new topper.
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  #76  
Old 12-11-2009, 09:26 PM
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Well I ordered my cross bars.. bought some 1" x 1" extrusions from 80-20, using the 1001 style with square on all sides and a single channel. I estimate the spacing between the feet will be about 36" give or take.. so using their load calculator that should be less than a .125" deflection if there's 100 pounds up there evenly distributed. In fact the RTT will have its weight directly above the feet, since it is wider than the feet.

If someone were to stand right in the middle of one though, that deflection jumps up a little- so if I make the center of my cross bars 1/2" off the top of the topper, I should be good to go, right? I could also design a "center foot" that would rest under the middle of the cross bars the whole time, what do you think? How far does a Thule bar bend if you stand on one foot in the middle of one?
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  #77  
Old 12-30-2009, 07:43 PM
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Ok I got my first couple rounds of prototype roof rack feet, I think this is going to be ok. Here are your pictures:
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  #78  
Old 12-30-2009, 07:51 PM
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These aren't bolted up yet, just sitting there. I need enough to do three sets, that way I can adjust the span between them to insure the tops of all three remain as planar as possible.

My only design issue at this point is there's a little bit of an arc in the topper, so the back one is going to be twisted a little different from the front one, I had experimented with some tapered/drafted cuts then mirroring the pieces, but this whole thing got to be a lot more complicated than what I am thinkng is necessary, so I'm not going to worry about it for now.


And the span between them is shorter than I thought it would be for some reason.. so once I got them to where they looked about right, the span is 23.5". That leaves 9.5" outside of the support feet. How that calculates out is below, but what it means is a 200 pound load directly in the center, or pulling on the outside, is going to deflect these things less than 1/8".

Dave once I get the internal supports made this is going to be a belt, suspenders, and an elastic waist band all rolled into one.
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:59 PM
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I do have a question though for the topper collective... there's a "thick section" in the center of the roof, I have assumed this to be a solid hunk of plywood? Can anyone confirm that? Or more importantly, tell me it's a bad idea to drill through it? Because that's the plan...
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  #80  
Old 12-30-2009, 08:07 PM
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Put some kind of a rubber pad between the topper and the plastic foot. This will spread the load more evenly over the foot even if it doesn't match the slope of the roof perfectly. If you could add some swivel in at least one axis, that'd help too. A ball joint would solve it.
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