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  #1  
Old 03-02-2015, 10:14 PM
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Default Axle Buildup-First stab at a tech writeup.

Hi All,

I’ve never really done a highly technical write-up; so, I figured I’d give it a shot with my axle build.

I’m sick and tired of the lunchbox I have in the front end of my 60. I’m blaming it for my rebuilt steering gear and rebuilt pump that are starting to show signs of failure. My birfs have seen better days and I’ve also decided to make the step to a 315/75R16.

I’ve scored a set of FJ62 axles from the junkyard down in Littleton. I love it when regular old bone yards get Landcruisers (thanks Ricardo)…….it’s like Christmas. These axles will be my starting platform. I picked them both up as full assemblies for a tiny bit over $200 and some labor (thanks to rockhound).

I chose the front FJ62 axle because of the added pinion angle built in. They both have 4:10’s in them. The front also has a truss built into it. Not sure how I feel about the truss yet, but I’m sure time will tell. As for now, it appears that it will be a good place to bang rocks into.

I know the knuckle rebuilds have been beaten to death, so I’ll try to focus on the R&P / ARB installs a little more. Hopefully someone will find it useful. ☺

I've set up a few 9" fords and a D44 back in the day. My experience is limited and I appreciate any constructive feed back. My diff setups and documentation will be reviewed by a good friend of mine (Brian Paul of Quick Performance) who has set up approximately 10,000 differentials all makes and models from mild to wild.

The plan:
Completely rebuild both axles flange to flange with detailed documentation here.
Clean, clean, clean, clean, Paint
Do a needed brake upgrade (I drove my truck around with 35’s for a weekend….scary)
Upgrade strength where I can
Lockers front and rear
Go from 3:70 to 4:10 gears
Do it all in my garage (with the help of a few stragglers and beer I’m sure)
Be done in plenty of time for Cruise Moab
Measure the Delta in pinion angles to understand how much reverse shimming I can do for caster correction.


The Parts:
• Front Axle
ARB locker
Longfield 30 spline shafts/birfs
Longfield hub parts
Reuse front R&P from fj62
Yukon (Koyo) master install kit w/solid spacer
ARP hardware
4Runner calipers new hardware
New hard lines (mine are mangled)
Marlin cross drilled and slotted rotors
Nice set of ceramic 4runner pads
Dust shield eliminator kit (both sets of shields that I have are pretty mangled….we’ll see about this mod, I’m a little cautious)
New pinion flange
New Studs
Paint (not sure what to use here. I used VHT epoxy paint on the housings/3rds last time and it didn’t hold up very well.) suggestions??
Bearings seals etc.
• Rear Axle
ARB Locker
Poly Performance Axles
New Toyota axle bearings and seals/gaskets
New 4:10 Nitro Gear R&P
Yukon (Koyo) master install kit w/ solid spacer
Turned drums (I now have several used pairs in good shape and can’t justify buying new ones)
New wheel cylinders and hardware
New shoes
New wheel studs
• Other Tid Bits:
4Runner Booster
Dakar add-a-Leaf for the driver side
315/75R16 Irock ND’s (this is their less aggressive version. From what I gather, they are supposed to be in the same class as a duratrack but ” skinnier on 8” rim)
Stand alone ARB compressor for lockers


Megan (my wife), Rockhound, and aprosise will likely be helping me document the process. With any luck I’ll be testing these things out on cliffhanger in late April and at Rubicon this August.

Expect to see the pics start flowing this week!!!!

Cheers.
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84 FJ60 low gears, locked, fun, rebuilt-2FE
2002 4Runner 105000mi, bone stock
2013 Tundra, bone stock
1992 Toyota Camry, 4x4 at heart - deceased

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Old 03-03-2015, 02:15 AM
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If you are going to be running 35's, and since you are already buying a new R&P for the rear, I would recommend going to 4.56 gears instead of the 4.10's. With 4.56's and 35's it should put you in the same power band you had with stock gears and stock rims/tires. It will make a noticeable difference at this elevation. If there is any chance of going to 37" tires, go with 4.88's.

The polyperformance axles are a pretty expensive insurance policy. The Toyota rear axle shafts are actually pretty strong, especially since you will be running an ARB. It's much less expensive to just snag an extra set of axle shafts. Unless you are really hard on the skinny pedal, you shouldn't have an issue breaking rear axles with 35's and a 2FE.
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:21 AM
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Good call on the 4:56's. I should have mentioned that I have a AA 4:1 t-case. This is an 8% under drive from stock. With a 4:10, I'm extremely close to a "4.56"
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84 FJ60 low gears, locked, fun, rebuilt-2FE
2002 4Runner 105000mi, bone stock
2013 Tundra, bone stock
1992 Toyota Camry, 4x4 at heart - deceased

"In God [i] trust. All others, bring data"
-E. Deming
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:25 AM
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To Randy's point the 4.56 or 4.88 gears are for street ability to rotate the larger tires in the engines power band in addition to a better crawl ratio . 4:1 case will show its value off road.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:36 AM
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I echo the comments above and will add that i have had stock rear axle shafts in my 60 for a long time behind the V8 and with some fairly spirited wheeling.. I shut it down quick when it starts to hop on rocks but definitely don't take it easy on the truck. They seem to have held up.

What is the pinion angle difference on the 62 axles?
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:52 AM
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The key there is the V8. I had 4.10's in my 40 behind my 350 and there wasnt any issue with power. But behind a stock 6 no bueno.
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:56 AM
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Thanks for the feedback so far all. I'm excited about the responses, and I haven't even started yet

Just to clear up one thing first, the 4:1 t-case reduces the high range by 8%. This almost equates to going from a 3.70 to 4.10 in high range....almost.

Megan and I do a lot of wheeling fully loaded down, my thoughts were with the 4:1 case and 1500lbs in gear it would be good insurance. I for sure might have jumped the gun there, but it was in the budget and princess approved.

I'm not sure how much difference there is in pinion angle, but I plan on figuring that out.....this applies to front only. There are a few folks that have stated this on mud. There could be zero, but a rough AB side by side shows that there must be a little.

Any advice on LC diff/axles or runner brake swap pitfalls are very welcome


I think I'll be getting some pics up tonight of the beginning.
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Jackson - KD0VZS

84 FJ60 low gears, locked, fun, rebuilt-2FE
2002 4Runner 105000mi, bone stock
2013 Tundra, bone stock
1992 Toyota Camry, 4x4 at heart - deceased

"In God [i] trust. All others, bring data"
-E. Deming
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:59 AM
Adventurous Adventurous is offline
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Sounds cool Jackson. I look forward to following this.
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:59 AM
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Any advice on paint? VHT epoxy didn't hold up, no budget left for powder coat unless I can get in on a batch deal ....
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Jackson - KD0VZS

84 FJ60 low gears, locked, fun, rebuilt-2FE
2002 4Runner 105000mi, bone stock
2013 Tundra, bone stock
1992 Toyota Camry, 4x4 at heart - deceased

"In God [i] trust. All others, bring data"
-E. Deming
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Old 03-03-2015, 10:23 AM
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Hmmmm I thought 4:1 case in 2wd or 4wd high was 1:1
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