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  #11  
Old 01-09-2010, 10:16 PM
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I also modified my Shroud and installed a 4runner blade and tosssed the one that came with the SC

http://forum.ih8mud.com/630365-post87.html
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2010, 10:23 PM
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Here are some write-ups on the Dual gauge install and where to tap the temp sensor

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...d-install.html

I have an ISSPRO temp gauge and Autometer Vac/boost gauge 0-20PSI. That's different than the ones in the thread
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2010, 11:51 PM
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Matt,
I also am running the older style radiator (same one that Convert is running). I was told the that the brass/Copper Radiator actually runs cooler than the aluminum.. I Believe it was Radiator Barn that i got it from (via the internet)... Had to get some additional foam from home depot to get a real good air seal.

- I also put on the JDM pusher fan (after seeing Treeroots). It can be wired up manually like Cdan has so it is only used when really hot, or it can be wired up like Uncle Ben so it stays on even after the truck is shut off if it is still hot.

- I changed to the new blue fan clutch and put in a mix of 6000 and 10,000 cst oil, as well as went to the Fan reccomended by Cdan. I believe it is a V6 truck Fan. This did require the fan shroud to be trimmed a bit, but with this setup you can really feel the air coming through the radiator. The Ring on the fan that came with it really seems to impede air movement through the radiator...

- i have the old Ringed fan that came on the supercharged rig when i got it, and you are welcome to it, but i find the new fan with the thicker oil to cool better.

- I never ran without a snorkel so cannot comment how that works, but really like the snorkel. Adds to the cool factor...

- I have been attempting to acquire another hood so i could also do some louvers.. that way i can always put the original hood back on if i don't like it.. I was over at ROOTS after he did the louvers, and felt the heat that was coming out of them, so i believe they work. I now a have an infrared temp gauge, so we could see if it lowered the temps on Roots rig.. just have never had a chance to talk him into the test yet....

I got all the fan parts from CDAN, and as always you are welcome to look at my rig. Just let me know and i will drop by to let you examine it

Cheers,
Neil.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2010, 06:19 AM
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The one biggest reason to replace is that it is hard to find a shop to remove and replace the top tank to rod out the radiator. While a flow test is good. It will not fully tell you if the radiator is function at %100. Around me I have not found a radiator shop to rod a plastic top tank radiator. On Mud, a couple of guys have found radiator shops that sell them new top and bottom tanks and all was fine for them.
Perfromance is no longer selling the Koyo brass and copper radiator at all. They went to a one row aluminum from a chinese manifacture. I do not believe that a one row will cut the amount of heat generated by the SC.
I have recently check for a cheap source for a KOYO 3 row Brass and copper, but have come up with close to 400 dollars shipped(for this price, I would use OEM). If you find a cheaper source, let me know. There was one source I called and e-mailed that did not returned my calls or e-mails, so I did not pursue them. I can search through my e-mails as one of my cilients pass on the info to me, but I did not book mrk the site.
PM me if you want this info.
Robbie
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2010, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer View Post
I have a 94 style radiator in mine. It's OEM, cheaper than the 96-97 and someone told me it is superior in cooling to the stock one. I don't know how effective cleaning is. It might be fine.
Where did you get the radiator? Toyota? Maybe I will call my buddies at Groove.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer View Post
I also modified my Shroud and installed a 4runner blade and tosssed the one that came with the SC

http://forum.ih8mud.com/630365-post87.html
Thanks for this. I hadn't heard that there was an issue with the stock SC fan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Dog View Post
Matt,
I also am running the older style radiator (same one that Convert is running). I was told the that the brass/Copper Radiator actually runs cooler than the aluminum.. I Believe it was Radiator Barn that i got it from (via the internet)... Had to get some additional foam from home depot to get a real good air seal.
So you're running a non OEM radiator? Do you remember what you paid?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Dog View Post
I also put on the JDM pusher fan (after seeing Treeroots). It can be wired up manually like Cdan has so it is only used when really hot, or it can be wired up like Uncle Ben so it stays on even after the truck is shut off if it is still hot.
Neil, where did you get the pusher fan from? Can it be ordered from Groove or CDan, or must it be purchased from someone in Japan (like Mot)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
The one biggest reason to replace is that it is hard to find a shop to remove and replace the top tank to rod out the radiator. While a flow test is good. It will not fully tell you if the radiator is function at %100. Around me I have not found a radiator shop to rod a plastic top tank radiator. On Mud, a couple of guys have found radiator shops that sell them new top and bottom tanks and all was fine for them.
OK, this is making more sense now. Maybe I will try these guys:
http://auroraradiator.com/
They say they do plastic parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
Perfromance is no longer selling the Koyo brass and copper radiator at all. They went to a one row aluminum from a chinese manifacture. I do not believe that a one row will cut the amount of heat generated by the SC.
Koyo is the OEM manufacturer?

Thanks for all the replies, guys!
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2010, 11:19 AM
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My wife took this with her iPhone. To get to many of the bolts, I literally had to sit in the engine compartment.
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2010, 11:24 AM
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I bought the 94 radiator from Cdan. It's a plug and play.

I bought the JDM pusher fan from Cdan. He stocks JDM parts, a lot of others don't. He also stocks the fuel sender for an aussie aux fuel tank if you ever need a replacement

Groove, Boulder or Stevenson might be able to get them as well, don't know for sure

Here is my install thread

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...et-easier.html

I have mine hooked up manually vs the auto turn on. That is my personal preference, others will tell you the auto is the only way to go.
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2010, 06:45 PM
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I could not find a good deal on the Koyo or OEM Radiator, and i liked the idea of Brass/Copper for trail repair in a pinch (can be soldered). I asked Convert where he got his because it was not having the problems others were talking about with the metal ones (Christo had horror stories).... got it from Radiator Barn, and will look up the invoice stuff for you.

Yes i got the JDM fan, the newer Blue fan clutch, new v6 truck fan blades, and 10,000 cst oil from CDAN.. I stil have some of the oil (i believe an extra tube of 10,000.). if you give him a call he will also tell you about the needed trimming to the shroud, but it was not too bad a job.

You are welcome to check it out...

=====
So you're running a non OEM radiator? Do you remember what you paid?

Neil, where did you get the pusher fan from? Can it be ordered from Groove or CDan, or must it be purchased from someone in Japan (like Mot)?



OK, this is making more sense now. Maybe I will try these guys:
http://auroraradiator.com/
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2010, 12:35 AM
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Progress report

The intake on my black 80 (Mayor McCheese to some) is off. Supercharger pulley has been added and crank pulley bolt torqued to 304 ft-lbs.

The worst part of the job so far has been removing the brake booster plug from the intake manifold of the donor vehicle (pictured above). You can see below how I finally got it out. Removing the piece from my daily driver 80 was cake.

I ended up having to buy a 90 degree turn tool for my drill to get out the plug.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2010, 12:37 AM
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I'm going to replace the fluid in the supercharger and modify the fan clutch as well. Fluids purchased.

I also purchased replacements for all the hoses. That was another $80.
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