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  #21  
Old 01-18-2010, 07:52 AM
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That's awesome matt!

The club should buy the other 80 and build a raffle vehicle when your done! Or just raffle it off in moab!
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Last edited by wesintl; 01-18-2010 at 08:25 AM.
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  #22  
Old 01-18-2010, 08:09 AM
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Sweet Jesus that's a torque wrench!!

Good work on the broken vacuum nipple. I hate it how those things can take all day sometimes. Glad you got it out
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  #23  
Old 01-18-2010, 11:09 AM
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  #24  
Old 02-28-2010, 11:41 PM
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First, a quick update. Progress is being made. Recently:

  • Installed a brand new 93-94 radiator
  • New cooling system hoses
  • Blue fan clutch, complete with 10,000 CST silicone swap
  • New oil in the SC (I'll write this up, since it seems that no one else has)
  • Supercharger mostly installed
  • TPS and IAC harness -- I spent way too long attempting to extract these from the harness to reach the new location on the throttle body. After giving up for the night, I see on ih8mud that many people have extended these (either some of the wires or all of them). I will work on this more soon.
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  #25  
Old 02-28-2010, 11:48 PM
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Question: should I just go buy a serpentine belt tool? I see one at Harbor Freight for $25. Link

Looks like this might make the belt installation much easier.
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Last edited by Hulk; 03-01-2010 at 12:15 AM.
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  #26  
Old 03-01-2010, 12:15 AM
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Here is a little write up on the SC oil service. Ken, let me know if I should post this over on Mud.

Step 1: Get some oil from GM. This was not hard to get. I called the Chevy dealer on Colorado Blvd. and they had several tubes on the shelf.

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Step 2: Open the drain on your work bench. Note: this is not a service that can be performed with the SC installed in your vehicle.

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Step 3: Drain.

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Step 4: Fill with the same amount of oil. Not having anything to measure with, I simply used another jelly jar and filled it up with the same amount of new oil. I then put it back in the empty tube and used the handy squirt top to refill the SC. I gave it an extra squirt, figuring that it had lost a bit of fluid over the years.

The new oil is completely clear. I was surprised how dirty the old oil was.

It would be nice to know how much fluid was originally installed in the supercharger. Since I didn't know, I refilled to the same level that I extracted. I used about one and a half of the GM tubes to refill the SC.

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Step 5: Put the plug back in. It should be noted that the correct Allen wrench size is 3/16" -- it ain't metric.

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  #27  
Old 03-01-2010, 07:21 AM
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Nice write-up Matt. I think that would be a good thread to post on Mud.

Nice progress
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  #28  
Old 03-01-2010, 07:43 AM
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The Eaton M80 & M90 Supercharger take 8oz of oil. Not to form a cloud over your day at the beach but dirty oil like you pulled out is caused from a worn coupler inside the nose cone. Easy to replace if you can find them. When the coupler wears it contaminates the oil which promotes gasket and seal failure as well as bearing wear. I think Christo has found a source for replacement couplers.
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Last edited by Uncle Ben; 03-01-2010 at 08:05 AM.
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  #29  
Old 03-01-2010, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
The Eaton M80 & M90 Supercharger take 8oz of oil. Not to form a cloud over your day at the beach but dirty oil like you pulled out is caused from a worn coupler inside the nose cone. Easy to replace if you can find them. When the coupler wears it contaminates the oil which promotes gasket and seal failure as well as bearing wear. I think Christo has found a source for replacement couplers.
So do you think I should pull it now? Probably easier than doing it later.
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  #30  
Old 03-01-2010, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
So do you think I should pull it now? Probably easier than doing it later.
It would be worth looking at! The 2oz of oil missing went somewhere! Call Christo or Ben Slee () as they have rebuilt a couple of these units. I rebuilt a few while at Ford that were on the Taurus, basically the same M80/M90 cases but with long drive snouts. The couplers on the older ones are plastic coated cast aluminum where I have heard a couple folks reporting that the newer TRD ones use all plastic couplers. The reasoning behind the couplers is if the rotors seize the coupler shears and the vehicle is not rendered disabled. Unfortunately, the couplers are what fail. On the Ford cases it was usually the shaft and inner seal that went first due to contaminated oil causing the oil to be drawn into the charger. 2oz is not a lot so I suggest taking a little detour now and do some maintenance which could save you a complete premature rebuild of the charger in the not so distant future!
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