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Old 01-17-2010, 05:59 PM
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Default adjustable rear upper arms

since i was frustrated at the engine, i decided to figure out a clunk that started about a week ago. found it pretty quick. the right upper arm was missing the bolt at the axle how the heck that came out, i have no clue, cause i can tell you the front bolt wasn't going anywhere. i had to use a 2' breaker bar with a 1' cheater pipe and my leg to bust that one loose. since i had to take it out to measure the bolt and see if i had something that would work, i decided to weld in the adjusters i bought. the instructions are on christos sight, but basically, you cut 10" out and weld these in. here are the pics. all that's left is to get a couple chunks of intertube to cover them with (hope to find some when i take my motorcycle rim in for a new tire)
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:41 PM
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Cool Ige! Obviously to compensate for lift, but it looks like it makes a beefier upper too! Nice work!
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Cool Ige! Obviously to compensate for lift, but it looks like it makes a beefier upper too! Nice work!
the lift will come eventually, whether on this rig or another. i'm doing all the stuff i can do in preperation for a 4+" lift.
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:26 PM
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Sweet! 4+, so, does that get you 37's? Either way, its gonna be SWEET!
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:59 PM
Bikeman Bikeman is offline
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Looks good, better than the full cash outlay I had to pay for the pair already done.
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1997 FZJ80, White, Locked, deflared, 5.29'd, 4-5" lift, Fox's, DC shafts F/R, 35" AT's, Metal Tech front bumper w/ winch, custom tube rear bumper, SROR sliders, IPOR skid, Custom exhaust, Snorkel, Eezi-Awn 1600, Mark's Speedo Box.

2008 Subaru WRX Wagon, mods and lifted on 27's

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Old 02-12-2010, 05:32 PM
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got the last touch on the rear adjustables....slipped some innertube over them to help keep rust at bay. they are full of antiseize, but robbie said even that didn't keep his from seizing up. so hopefully this will help keep everything moving later on down, the road. if you do this, be sure to put a slit in the bottom to allow any moisture that does get in to drip out.
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:08 PM
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Sweet! 4+, so, does that get you 37's? Either way, its gonna be SWEET!
3+ gets you 37's
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:44 PM
Bikeman Bikeman is offline
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In addition to the use of anti-seize, I've kept mine sprayed down with tri-flow and WD-40. The job of the adjustable arms will either shorten themselves to bring the pinion down to equal driveline angles on shorter lifts or lengthen to raise the pinion to point it to the TC flange to accept a DC driveline for larger amounts of lift.

It will also at the same time doing the latter, lengthen the wheelbase enough by pulling or rotating the axle back to add clearance to the front of the rear wheelwell for larger tires so one doesn't have to chop up a pair of perfectly good Slee lower control arms.

Ige, you may hear a "pop" when you first wheel the 80 after the install of the arms. Under articulation, one jam nut on each side will break loose. This gives awesome flex. I still haven't found a way to get the jam nuts tight enough from stopping this, short of a bead of weld on the nut.
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1997 FZJ80, White, Locked, deflared, 5.29'd, 4-5" lift, Fox's, DC shafts F/R, 35" AT's, Metal Tech front bumper w/ winch, custom tube rear bumper, SROR sliders, IPOR skid, Custom exhaust, Snorkel, Eezi-Awn 1600, Mark's Speedo Box.

2008 Subaru WRX Wagon, mods and lifted on 27's

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Old 02-14-2010, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
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It will also at the same time doing the latter, lengthen the wheelbase enough by pulling or rotating the axle back to add clearance to the front of the rear wheelwell for larger tires so one doesn't have to chop up a pair of perfectly good Slee lower control arms.
You can't lengthen the wheelbase materially by rotating the pinion with your upper arms. The upper arms mount to a lever point above the axle tube and can only force a very minor rotation of the LCA mount that sits close to flush to the tube. This simply is not going to affect wheelbase.

In fact, if you are pushing the pinion down with the upper arms (not going to a DC shaft) and rotation will actually shorten the wheelbase because the mount will rotate (slightly ) away from the arm and the axle will have to be moved forward (slightly ) to compensate.

Chopping up really expensive Slee arms to sleeve and lengthen them is a must do project for those who want to fix pinion angle and wheelbase via the correct method of adjusting the lowers. Plus my LCA's are now 2" OD and 3/8" wall except where I cut and inserted a 6" long tube in the inside making the wall 5/8" thick.

And I don't have to worry about rusty nutz
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
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Chopping up really expensive Slee arms to sleeve and lengthen them is a must do project for those who want to fix pinion angle and wheelbase via the correct method of adjusting the lowers.
Why is that the correct method where you lengthen the wheelbase and increase the change of the back rubbing when compressed? I saw your post re: the front rubbing. In all the trucks we have done up to 37's this was rarely an issue.

I think there are two way to do it, not necessarily a right and wrong way.
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