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Old 01-20-2010, 04:56 PM
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Default Gas Tank Hole Repair

Finally got the tranny fixed and everything back together this morning. I put about 3 gallons in the tank when the cruiser was in the garage. Drove it around and it runs great and then I parked it in the driveway. Started reassembling the interior and and hour after parking I had gas running into the street. Took everything back out and removed the tank. There is one pinhole in the back, when level 3 gallons didn't reach it but on an incline it was more than enough to reach the hole. Are there any tried and true methods of repairing this short of welding? I need something dependable as I'm driving back to Alaska in 2 months.

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Old 01-20-2010, 05:49 PM
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I have used this stuff before with good success:

http://www.kreemproducts.net/p-13-kr...er-1-pint.aspx

I fixed a leaky tank in an old rover with it since they were unobtainium.

maybe somebody else can share their experiences with it... I'd try it again if I were in a pinch.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:18 PM
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There's gas tank sealant you can get at auto parts stores...it worked well on mine, but I had a bunch of other smaller holes that were leaking too so I ended up replacing the tank.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:50 PM
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there are tons of sealants, but I would only do that on a seam leak. for a hole I would actually patch it. all patch methods I know of involve a flame, so that means a wash out (or three) dry/blow out, the torch..

Brazing would work well.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:58 PM
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I used an epoxy system with a fiberglass patch that came with it on the 40. Works fast and seems very secure. I cannot recall the name, but I am thinking it was a JB Weld product. Got it at a parts store. Good luck. T
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:22 PM
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Go to checkers and get the gas tank repair putty. I used it twice with once at CM09 after I stuck a screw in my tank, don't ask. I pulled the tank a few weeks ago and it was still perfect. I have also used it on a seem with the same success. Just make sure you clean the area real well and even though it says you can use it when wet try to dry the area.

The stuff really works, I had my doubts too but not anymore. I have two sticks in 4x4 bag at all times, works for radiators too.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttubb View Post
I used an epoxy system with a fiberglass patch that came with it on the 40. Works fast and seems very secure. I cannot recall the name, but I am thinking it was a JB Weld product. Got it at a parts store. Good luck. T
Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
There's gas tank sealant you can get at auto parts stores...it worked well on mine, but I had a bunch of other smaller holes that were leaking too so I ended up replacing the tank.
I've had some experience with this too. IMO the sealant is the best long term repair short of a replacement tank, which if I were driving that bad boy to Alaska, I would replace it. Here's a link to Cool Cruisers of Texas http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/gastanfj19th.html. A poly tank is $185 and the steel abouit $225-$360 depending on year.

If you choose to do the sealant repair, I'd make sure I had some JB Weld in the glovebox just in case

Good luck! Happy trails on that Alaska run.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:43 AM
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what ever you use, its only going to be as good as your prep work !!! it dosent matter if you spend 6 buck at autozone or 60 buck for a wash out and weld job.. if you dont prep it properlly and take the time to do it right then its a waste.. i prefer the wash out and weld method.. because your doing more than just fixing the leak with this method.. youll be taking care of any dirt, crud, rust, sand, water.. and anything else in the tank.. and you can fix multiple holes in one repair instead of just slaping some goo on the bottom of the tank under the truck and then finding out later that you have another leak elsewere.. then have to do the repair again... you can also paint the inside of the tank with and outside of the tank with tank restore paint.. im not sure off the top of my head what to use.. problly POR-15. yea slaping on some goo will work just fine and get you buy for years.. ive done it and have had success but tipically only use this as a last resort. or a last minute repair.. if you have 2 months id fix it properlly..
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:14 AM
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Only one hole. There was some foam tape on the bottom to prevent rattling and i guess some water got in and started corroding the tank. I wire wheeled around the hole and then sanded and cleaned it. Put the permatex putty stuff on it and it seems to hold up rather nicely. The hole might be big enough to fit a sewing needle through so
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Leader View Post
Only one hole. There was some foam tape on the bottom to prevent rattling (Factory set-up) and i guess some water got in and started corroding the tank. I wire wheeled around the hole and then sanded and cleaned it. Put the permatex putty stuff on it and it seems to hold up rather nicely. The hole might be big enough to fit a sewing needle through so
Have you previously driven your intended route before at the same time of year? Do you have any auxiluary tanks?

I had the same problem with my '69-40 last year to your exact description and there's likely more holes about to develop. There's no way in H E "double hockey sticks" that I'd start out on a trip from Colorado to Alaska with some putty securing a leak in my gas tank (and I curently use a repaired tank for local wheelin). We're not talking about a day trip to Vail here we're talking about risking you life man. It's not the middle of July-August your talking about making this trip.

I've owned Landcruisers for 20+ year's and lusted over them more than 20 before that and I'm not sure I'd even consider a trip like this in any 30+ year old vehicle in the winter...even a 30+ year old Landcruiser.

At minimum, please reconsider purchasing that $200 tank! You're scaring me big time here! Don't be a . The Yukon is no place to play around with...especially October-May!

Again, whatever you decide, best of luck man!
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