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  #11  
Old 01-21-2010, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Ok so I'll admit to being a 3.4 swap luddite... but why do you need to run the exhaust down the other side, anyway?
Taco has a driver side T-case output so the exhaust is routed on the passenger side. When you run a passenger side output you need the exhaust to exit the drivers side.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2010, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TIMZTOY View Post
looks great.. im not a fan of the cross over tubes.. ive always opted to run tru duels.. much better HP and throttle responce.. and a hell of a lot easer to run the exhaust. expectually on custome setups..
The problem with the older minis and the 3.4 is, the fuel line and clutch slave are RIGHT THERE under the passenger manifold. Not that it can't be done... but...
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Taco has a driver side T-case output so the exhaust is routed on the passenger side. When you run a passenger side output you need the exhaust to exit the drivers side.
Kevin's right swap-wise.

But something that's always confused me is why the exhaust manifolds from the original 3VZ that is being replaced can't be used? I thought the blocks were essentially the same. I mean I understand that if it's replacing a 20/22R then it might be easier to fab than buy a set of 3VZ from a junkyard. Am I missing something?
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:23 AM
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I would keep the flex joint. damhik too
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Kevin's right swap-wise.

But something that's always confused me is why the exhaust manifolds from the original 3VZ that is being replaced can't be used? I thought the blocks were essentially the same. I mean I understand that if it's replacing a 20/22R then it might be easier to fab than buy a set of 3VZ from a junkyard. Am I missing something?
Does beg looking into, but... if I am not mistaken the exhaust of the 3VZ is one of the inefficiencies of that motor (the intake is another. Then there is the head design... the valves... the whole intake/exhaust in other words). Even the later 5VZ exhausts breathe better than the earlier ones (the earlier one is shown above, and what I intend to build for the Chili), but are near impossible to modify because they have internal half-tubes that dump out into a larger 'collector'. The later manifolds are stainless and work really well.

The ORS crossover looks very similar to the later 5VZ 'half-tube' one, but is actually just a large tube that merges with the left side large tube. There is part of the problem: the merge point is a hot spot, so much so that the steel tends to vaporize and voila! you have an exhaust leak after a while. This is made worse by using header wrap to try to keep the firewall cooler. It does, but it also accelerates the steel vaporizing.

The other weak point with the original ORS crossover was the absence of the flex joint. This led to a cracked junction on the left side, inevitably, and right at that hot spot. That's why I pointed it out. You wouldn't think it would crack, but it does. The flex joint fixed it.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:02 PM
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FWIW, Justin swapped his deceased 1998 (? I think) motor for a 2001 good boneyard one and reported a noticeable increase in power. He used the newer exhaust manifolds/collector. His ECM remained unchanged. I am thinking it was the manifolds/'collector' taking a real shine to his blower.
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  #17  
Old 01-21-2010, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
STOP!

Cut the middle out of the crossover and weld in the flex coupler from the original.

DAMHIK.
I'm with ya, Bill. I cut open the original crossover and discovered the flex coupling. I will be putting it in prior to installation. BTW, did you paint/ceramic coat your crossover? Thanks for the "heads up" on this. Terry
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ttubb View Post
I'm with ya, Bill. I cut open the original crossover and discovered the flex coupling. I will be putting it in prior to installation. BTW, did you paint/ceramic coat your crossover? Thanks for the "heads up" on this. Terry
why not cut the original up and flip the header connection parts to make the mirror image crossover? It might work out... and you'd keep the stainless and flex parts. The collector might get funky..
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2010, 02:07 PM
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Marco, and TTUB, that is how I plan on doing it. Cut up the original and butt weld it back together. Then ceramic coat the inside and outside. Cutting off the flanges could get interesting... I suppose that is why TTUB cut them the way he did and expanded normal tubing over it!

Glad to save you a learning experience... might as well share the wealth! LOL
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2010, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
why not cut the original up and flip the header connection parts to make the mirror image crossover? It might work out... and you'd keep the stainless and flex parts. The collector might get funky..
We found that you could not get a clean finished pipe without many weld joints. Also, by reusing the flanges you can slip 2 inch pipe over the existing metric pipe and not have to weld into the flanges. This saves the seat area for the permanent exhaust gaskets.

I won't be able to get to installing the flex for a week or so, but when I do, I will post pics of the finished product. I spoke with the ceramic coating shop about the flex joint. They indicated they just tape it off and coat the remainder of the pipe. I am going that route. t
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