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  #11  
Old 01-23-2010, 12:34 PM
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40's but the technology is the same....

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...uspension.html

My 40 is running the Downey back breakers with three leafs added from a Northern spring pack. Because of the cantilever shackles, I can't keep springs arched for more than one run. After a single run, the are flat or inverted.

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  #12  
Old 01-23-2010, 12:53 PM
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who's truck is that with the black panels and rusty paint?
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2010, 01:15 PM
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who's truck is that with the black panels and rusty paint?
Dave Armbrusters!
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:50 PM
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In my opinion if 36" and larger tires will be the ultimate goal then wider axles might as well be planned in to the build early! If you going with FJ-60 axles you need to either outboard the front springs of come up with another plan on how the chunk will fit the springs.
Axle width is one thing I did not think of at the time of my last post. I agree with you here and plan to run a 60 series front and centered diamond housing rear when I rebuild my 40. New axles would definitely greatly increase the cost.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:07 PM
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Axle width is one thing I did not think of at the time of my last post. I agree with you here and plan to run a 60 series front and centered diamond housing rear when I rebuild my 40. New axles would definitely greatly increase the cost.
I always try to think a few steps ahead of a project and I know how I am and things are never done. If it costs the same to build something that upgrades are planned into as it does to simply just do what I want now then by all means build it now for later!
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:14 PM
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Dave Armbrusters!
It was far, far worse looking than that when Root got it from me. Far worse. He was heaven sent for that FJ40, it needed a knucklehead like him to do it right. Digging the vintage of that photo with the gray right door. When it left me it had a green left door, gray right, one blue fender, a whole lot of patina. It was the Technicolor Cruiser!
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:24 PM
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Wow, lots of info..

My brain is scrambled.

Mike, your rig looks like it flexes great.

So after reading everything it makes me think I should go the custom route and make sure I get my shackle angles right. Either that or get some 55 or 60 springs.

Pretty sure I don't want to do the SOA with this truck. I feel like I have a wheeling rig already and if I were to SOA the 40 I'd want to take it much farther down the built for wheeling path. It is tempting though since I have a set of sprung over 60 axles in the garage ready to go..

Ok, back to more reading. Thanks for all the input guys..
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:32 PM
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Wow, lots of info..

My brain is scrambled.

Mike, your rig looks like it flexes great.

So after reading everything it makes me think I should go the custom route and make sure I get my shackle angles right. Either that or get some 55 or 60 springs.

Pretty sure I don't want to do the SOA with this truck. I feel like I have a wheeling rig already and if I were to SOA the 40 I'd want to take it much farther down the built for wheeling path. It is tempting though since I have a set of sprung over 60 axles in the garage ready to go..

Ok, back to more reading. Thanks for all the input guys..
In all seriousness you really need to be honest to yourself. If you plan on lockers and 33's now it will be very hard to not morph again! 40's biggest limiting factor on big rocks is the crawl ratio! 2.3:1 T-case is really crippling when the rocks and tires get bigger!
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  #19  
Old 01-26-2010, 05:52 PM
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In all seriousness you really need to be honest to yourself. If you plan on lockers and 33's now it will be very hard to not morph again! 40's biggest limiting factor on big rocks is the crawl ratio! 2.3:1 T-case is really crippling when the rocks and tires get bigger!
I agree with that, except I'm happy with 33s, a rear lock right and 2.3 t-case. I can drive to and from work on the pavement, to and from the trailhead without trailering, and still take on most trails. The rear driveline's not too short (from toybox, NP203, any of the 5 speeds, etc.), and I haven't sunk a bunch of money in it (read=orion).

I am sprung under with a custom lift where the bottom two leaves of each stock pack are removed and replaced with a Rancho add-a-leaf. Great articulation (for sprung under and leaf springs), good road manners, and cost $120. Bushings and shocks cost extra. 33x10.5 fit perfect.

I have read and heard from numerous sources that cut and turn for SO is only necessary for wagons, and not for shorty 40s. Same with SR. IOW, I have heard and read from a number of people who I trust and respect that some fall in the cut/turn and Sr is good on SOs, and others say it's only for necessary for wagons.

I have also heard that OMEs are an AWESOME upgrade for a SU wagon, but that their 40 packs are harsh and too short. I have an OME kit (medium/medium) on my 76 40 project, and while I haven't driven it yet to report on whether it's harsh or soft. I can definitely say the rears look too short.
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  #20  
Old 01-26-2010, 06:23 PM
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Jeff, I would think the opposite would be true. Don't 60s have more distance from the pinions to the t-case, and thus are better able to handle a larger difference in height due to a lift?

Marco, seems to me by the way you're taking pains to keep it stock, restore things back to original spec, fix the body and paint it nice (as opposed to not caring), etc. that all you will want/need for THIS 40 is a 2 1/2" or at most 4" spring under lift, maybe a u-bolt flip kit, and run 33x10.50 or 33x12.50 or 34x10.50. I would recommend a 2 1/2" lift like Jacket has, a rear locker of some flavor (do you still have your Lockright?), and run it. Then see what you want to do.

I've had thoughts of maybe attacking a more aggressive 40 project some day, but I think that even though my 40 isn't a show vehicle by any means I would have a hard time taking it down that road. I would personally want to buy a 40 with no real back history to speak of and approach it with a whole different mentality. To me there's pleasure in both approaches - 1 is like what you're doing - take it back to stock with some slight mods and see what it'll do. 2 is like Uncle Ben and Randy - keep changing things out to see what works the best for what you want to do that particular season of 'wheeling Like I said both are fulfilling.

If it were me going route 2 I might take a look at something more like this to start from:
http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/1562884001.html

my
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