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  #21  
Old 01-26-2010, 07:45 PM
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Jeff, Matt is correct. You facts are close but because of the steeper angle of the 40 drive shaft it will bind much sooner than a 60 will with it's longer/less angled drive shafts.
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  #22  
Old 01-26-2010, 08:19 PM
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I would go for the 2.5" OME if it were me.. easily clear 33's especially if you stay skinny. I would also keep it open until you want to do ARB's.. in the mean time if you need to run a harder trail take the 60!
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  #23  
Old 01-26-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Jeff, I would think the opposite would be true. Don't 60s have more distance from the pinions to the t-case, and thus are better able to handle a larger difference in height due to a lift?
Intuitively (as an engineer) I would agree, thus my disclaimers in simply relating what others, who I greatly respect, have said and written.
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2010, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Jeff, Matt is correct. You facts are close but because of the steeper angle of the 40 drive shaft it will bind much sooner than a 60 will with it's longer/less angled drive shafts.
Again, simply relating what I've been told by others who have done this - I haven't. As far as binding, there are other ways to deal with it such as clearancing yokes. If I were going to do a SO on my '71 40 (and have thought about it long and hard), I would not choose a SR, but would consider a cut and turn, and adding the double cardan on both driveshafts that would require from pointing the pinions up.

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  #25  
Old 01-26-2010, 08:37 PM
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just run a 2.5 lift and be done whether it's ome or whatever. your 82 will be too nice to hack up further for some radical lift when your done. It's much more driveable with a 2.5 lift.

I do think that OME's are kinda bouncy but overall not bad. I don't like they way they sag with a bar and a winch either. Where they shine is gravel roads and washboards. Overall it's good fit for most of the passes in colorado. I don't think they are that great for moab slickrock but work better for alot of the dirt roads around moab.

anyway. good luck
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  #26  
Old 01-27-2010, 08:52 AM
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I agree with the 2.5" comments.

For most with 2 4x4's in the stable, one of the rigs becomes the primary wheeler for difficult trails. The way you've built the 60, now with 35's, gears, lockers, hysteer, etc., that truck will run all but a few hardcore trails.

So to keep the 40 smaller and closer to stock makes sense to me. And if you change your mind, it's pretty easy to sell the parts and slap some 39.5" Iroks on it.
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  #27  
Old 01-27-2010, 11:24 PM
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Yeah, I am thinking keep it smaller. Matt, I'll take a look at your truck, I'm interested in seeing the shackle angles.

I know I have to do something.. I pulled the front shocks off tonight and noticed that they were only letting the axle droop about 1.5". coupled with the thing only sitting a few inches off the bumps stops it yielded pretty much no articulation. I guess they had the wrong shocks on it, but hey, might as well rebuild the suspension right?

Thanks for all the input, it has helped tremendously.
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  #28  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:13 AM
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Some good reads in here!

A few comments:

I run the Downey 4" lift. You can still get it from Mark Algazey (sp?) of Mark's Off Road.

I do not think it is too rough, but I run it with the rear springs flipped for wheelbase, with Doetsch Tech shocks and a longer rear shackle. I think the shock absorber you choose to accompany a spring will make a difference.

The reality is that these are a short wheelbase vehicle (the 40), and they will feel the terrain differently than a wagon. I love the way my 55 rides!

I am in the category 1 that Matt and Jeff described, mostly stock, mild wheeling and low cost are my preference. 33's, rear auto locker and PS get me most of the views I want to see. Wrenching (and life) prohibit most of my wheeling weekends anyway. So it is fun to be able to drive my 40 to work and smile when I go outside to drive home.

Regarding SOA and cut-n-turn, I wonder if what Jeff has heard from the wagon crowd is due to a shorter front driveshaft than the 40 front driveshaft? I know my front shaft on the 55 is pretty short...

Good luck!
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  #29  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:48 AM
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Marco...all I will say is that I paid someone a lot of money to do a SOA on my '76 and it is the biggest reason I no longer own the vehicle! With the spring pack and the thickness of the axle, it turns out to be about 7" of lift. 35" tires looked small on it after the lift. Also, as Uncle Ben has suggested, I ran it without a torsion bar which made things even more expensive after popping the rear pinion.

One day, I will own another 40 and I will stay spring under with about 3" of lift. My SOA was so unstable and had so much bump steer (I didn't do the hi-steer) that it was almost undriveable on the highway. I felt like I was needing to buy a trailer to get it to the trails! Hence, the reason I sold it...I couldn't afford a 3/4 ton truck and trailer just to own my 40!!!

Talk to Jeff (Mendocino)...he has two 40's and I think both are sprung under. I think they have two different springs, so he might have some input on which is better?

Good luck Marco...can't wait to see it.
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  #30  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
Yeah, I am thinking keep it smaller. Matt, I'll take a look at your truck, I'm interested in seeing the shackle angles.
I left the rear shackles that were already on the truck when I installed the OME springs, since they were a bit longer than stock (maybe 1") - just to see what it would do. There's too much of a rake, and with the top off it rides pretty rough. I've got the OME shackles in my garage, just haven't taken the time to switch over to them.
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