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  #21  
Old 07-01-2006, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali
Now I just gotta get a M12 x 1.25 tap so I can install my long-needed and today-acquired seatbelts...of course the finest that Americans think M12 goes is 1.50...
I forgot to mention, I do have a 12x1.25 tap and and also a die that you're welcome to borrow. I was rooting around for a 1/8NPT to clean the threads out on that mystery oil port on that F I built when I came across them.
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  #22  
Old 07-03-2006, 12:48 PM
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Thanks again Jeff Actually I found out today that it's actually a 7/16-20 bolt, which is closer to a M11 x 1.25. So it's all good, I was able to borrow my friend's dad's tap. Hopefully will have time to get around to the turn signals later today, I'm going to actually take a little closer look at the hazard switch. Oh and my speedometer stopped working after last week's escapades on the backside of the instrument cluster, so all the way to South Colony Lakes and back this weekend I had to guesstimate my speed I think we guesstimated a constant 70-75-80 all the way back on N. I-25 from the Springs.
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  #23  
Old 07-03-2006, 03:33 PM
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Cool. On the speedo, I broke, replaced and broke again a couple speedo cables on my 71 before I discovered they were breaking because the brass bushings inside the speedo were binding. I took the mechanism apart very carefully, cleaned and lubed, reassembled and reinstalled and all's been well ever since.

If your issue is the same as mine, first check to see if the cable's broken or not. If it is, replace it. If it isn't check the little plastic gear between the t-case and e-brake. If the gear's broken, it can be replaced without pulling the t-case. If either are broken and then replaced, and the speedo starts to work again, watch the speedo needle. If it bounces around like crazy, that means the brass bushings inside are binding and you'll break another cable or gear.
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  #24  
Old 10-05-2006, 09:04 AM
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Just trying to bump this since I haven't had time to work on the truck in a while. As per Romer's hint I'm going to look closely at the rear lights and make sure all the grounds are good back there; the more I think about the more it seems like that's probably the problem. MARTIN helped me last night by plugging in the relays I have into his harness to check if they were working and they were, so at least that's ruled out. Since I still have no idea how this system works I can't just start from the upper side of the electron stream (don't really even know where that is?) and work down to the bulbs. But since both were working, then one quit, then the other got intermittant, then it too quit the more I think about it the more it sounds like a wire is grounding somewhere along the frame or the rear bulbs/housings are NOT grounding properly. Ruled out the fronts earlier, they work fine.
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  #25  
Old 10-05-2006, 09:47 AM
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Have you unplugged the bullet connectors from the lights and tested just the wires?
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  #26  
Old 10-05-2006, 12:16 PM
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You talking at the rear of the truck? I need a little more elaboration on what you're thinking I might need to look for.
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"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #27  
Old 10-05-2006, 12:27 PM
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When either front or rear lights either aren't getting a decent ground, or have burned out bulb(s), normally the emergancy flashers will work, but not the turn signals. Also, in these instances, when the turn signal switch is actuated, you will hear one click and then nothing. At this point, normally you will see the turn signal indicator with steady illumination, and no illumination on any exterior lamp.

As for the source of the electrons, that will of course be the negative terminal of the battery, but you probably knew that. What you are likely trying to find is the sink for the electrons. For the flashers, that will of course be the positive terminal of the battery, then to the fuseblock. It is important to note that since the emergency flashers work without the key turned, their power is "unswitched", whilst the turn signal portion needs the key at least in the accessory on position, or engine on. HTH and happy cruisin'!
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  #28  
Old 10-05-2006, 12:57 PM
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Hm...I'll look into that, that's a good observation that I haven't yet thought about but I would do well to. My hazards have never worked, even when the turn signals did work, so that throws another angle into the equation. I'll trace wires and grounds and report back. Currently I don't even get a click from my turn signals, and no lights on the dash. I used to get a blinking light on the dash corresponding to the signals.
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"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #29  
Old 10-06-2006, 11:08 AM
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Matt-

Wes, is talking about the two bullet connectors that run from inside your engine bay through the fenders and into the turn signals, you have a picture of them in an earlier post here. Put a muti meter in there and see if you are getting good power at both of those.

I would have to recommend the easiest stuff first. I would remove both lights and really work on the grounds up front (that was my issue). I would go as far as to "jump" the ground to the battery to make sure you have it covered. With all the dirt and grime our cruisers have seen in 30 years this is the most probable cause. Second, I would make sure each bulb is working and not burned out.

Then I would head to the rear of the vehicle and check the ground at the rear lights, clean it up and maybe go as far as "jumping" to a ground again. This has allowed my turn signals to work again as well.

I know my junk sounds way to basic, but I would recommend totally ruling out the simple things first. My grounds and wires for that matter, showed very real evidence of being exposed to the elements for 30 years.

Sorry man, electric stuff can really stink, you will get it man . Plus, if you need any more pics, my cruiser is a Nov/75 build date. Let me know I will snap some shots.

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  #30  
Old 10-06-2006, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali
I think we guesstimated a constant 70-75-80 all the way back on N. I-25 from the Springs.
Just get a GPS and call it done!

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