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Old 02-09-2010, 07:50 PM
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Default 2nd gen 4runner 3.0 now has rod knock

My buddy's 2nd gen ('94?) 4runner 3.0 just developed rod knock. Not really sure what caused it, at least I'm not. What should he do?

Let's say he's a shade tree mechanic, has changed oil, coolant, spark plugs etc. before. Would it REALLY be worth it for him to consider a 3.4 V6 swap? Or should he just find another 3.0 and go with it? Any shop recommendations that could do most/all of the work? In the Conifer area...

Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:55 PM
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Check the belts for missing chunks!
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:28 PM
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how hard is it to drop the pan? if easy, pull the pan and wiggle the rods..could probably figure out pretty easily which rod it is and replace the lower end bearings if that's the issue.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:46 PM
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aaaa just get full coverage insurance now.. and keep driving it the way it is untill it blows up.. and hope insurance buys a new car.. or comps for the loss.. buy i doubt they will..
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJBRADY View Post
Check the belts for missing chunks!
Took it to a Toyota mechanic who I would assume used a stethoscope or other similar method for determining the source of the noise. I'll have my buddy look at it though just in case. Always best to check the obvious first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearlemon View Post
how hard is it to drop the pan? if easy, pull the pan and wiggle the rods..could probably figure out pretty easily which rod it is and replace the lower end bearings if that's the issue.
No idea...anyone?
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:54 PM
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Rudy just got done doing the bearings in his motor....

like Ige says though, I'd pull the pan and see if I could get away with throwing new bearings in it. Pretty small $ investment.

Maybe Rudy can chime in and let ya know hw hard it was for him to do his bearings.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:09 PM
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If it gets to the pont that he has to pull the 3.0 out to do a complete rebuild, thats when I would consider dropping a 3.4 in instead.

But if you are positive it is a rod knock and does not require a full rebuild then X2 what the others have said.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
If it gets to the pont that he has to pull the 3.0 out to do a complete rebuild, thats when I would consider dropping a 3.4 in instead.

But if you are positive it is a rod knock and does not require a full rebuild then X2 what the others have said.
I would 3.4 it. It's cheaper or close to the same price as a full rebuild on a 3.0.

You have to drop the front diff out to pull the pan, but this may work to keep it running for a while longer.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:33 PM
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OK AFTER you check the fan belts...*dopeslaps self*

No fair, I have a SAS 4runner with a T-100 oil pan that I can remove without doing anything.

I helped a guy who managed to pull the pan without dropping the diff. Wrong way to do it for sure. and you would never have enough room to do rod bearings either. (I was wondering why he wanted a tie rod puller to change a front main seal?)


So it is drop front diff. 25 bolts total I think.

Now you can see the oil pan. Lots of nuts and bolts there. Have to get that flywheel plate out of there too. No big deal.
Drop the oil pump pickup and the baffles.
From here, you can now wobble all the rods. Sure the bearing girdle is in the way, but it is do-able.

At NAPA, you can only get 1 size of 3.0 rod bearings. This happens to be the MIDDLE size of the Toyota bearings which come in 3 different sizes.
It is VERY likely that all the rod bearings in your engine will be the STD. size if the engine is original.

All 6 rod bearings from NAPA are like $30. Toyota bearings can be purchased a pair at a time. I think they were $18 rod, but you can get the "right" size or do just one rod.

Cranking the engine around to where you can get to the rod bolts isn't a big deal. Pushing in the new rod bearings while you slide out the old bearing isn't a huge deal either. Just be very careful about scratching the journals or the very soft bearing babbet.

Check with plastigage.


I think you could do rod bearings insitu over a weekend without too much trouble.
If you have to order 20 over bearings from Toyota, that might add a couple of weeks to the project.

Estimated total project cost: $100 (bearings, oil, filter, RTV, band-aides...)
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:49 PM
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When I did the timing chain in my 22R years ago I did not pull the head but did drop the pan. Dropping the diff isn't the worst thing ever and totally worth gaining the space. With the diff out it's also a good time to press out the drive flange studs and replace them with bolts. That makes diff R&R and CV axle R&R about 10 times faster.

Also, if rebuild is needed, there was a thread on Yotatech about a person who did a pretty comprehensive 3.0L rebuild that was significantly under $1,000. Doubt a 3.4L conversion will be that cheap and will be more work in ancillaries like the exhaust and what-not. I did this same questioning with my engine and even though I did a pretty expensive rebuild (about $2K), it was still cheaper and faster than the conversion to a 2.7L.
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