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  #11  
Old 03-10-2010, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Art Volmer View Post
MAPP gas and pb blaster. Heat a little, soak with PB, repeat a few times and should free up. Good Luck, Art
Another trick along this same line is heat and rapid cool with ice/snow then heat again. The rapid chilling will break the corrosion weld. My suggestion for OEM joint replacement was due to the fact that since the rust is established it won't be long until the new joints are rusted to the tie rod, and since the tie rod is included with the new Toyota joint kinda seems like a no brainer.
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2010, 12:53 PM
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take the tre our of the arms then put them back in and put the castle nut back on only so it's not loose. then use a monkey wench on the pipe and put a piece of pipe on the monkey wrench if need more leverage.

are you sure they are loosening not tightening? one side is reverse thread..
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2010, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wesintl View Post

are you sure they are loosening not tightening? one side is reverse thread..
I know!!! That's the part that concerns me..... I can see the threads through the split at the end of the TR, but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to visually deduce that it's "lefty loosy"....

I read somewhere (coolerman's site?) that the driver side is right-handed, and the passenger side is left-handed (reverse threads). I was hoping someone with recent experience could confirm.

It may make more sense to get a whole new TR like Uncle Ben suggests....
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2010, 01:46 PM
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I know!!! That's the part that concerns me..... I can see the threads through the split at the end of the TR, but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to visually deduce that it's "lefty loosy"....

I read somewhere (coolerman's site?) that the driver side is right-handed, and the passenger side is left-handed (reverse threads). I was hoping someone with recent experience could confirm.

It may make more sense to get a whole new TR like Uncle Ben suggests....
I don't think your understanding me.....when you get new tie rod end from Toyota for an FJ-40, I forget if it's the right or left is packaged WITH the tie rod! You can toss the new tube and use your old one if you want but I would use it if it was me!
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I need an FJ40....
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:03 PM
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so did ya break it loose of not ? if not ive got the tool for ya.. not to brag but its the only wrench at our shop that can get stuck tie rod adjusters loose without heat and everyone in the shop is always borrowing it from me.. your welcome to come on buy and use it or borrow it.. or hit me up on the cell and i can grab them when i leave work and swing on by your house..
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  #16  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:43 PM
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Hey man,

I just checked my tie rods...

On the passenger side at the steering arm they are both left hand thread.

The tie rod end on the pitman arm is right hand thread, so the one at the pivot in front of the steering box is left hand thread.

the one at the pivot that goes to the passenger wheel is right hand thread.

clear as mud?

Oh, and as mentioned above, stick them all back on the truck and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to get them off if you really want to torque them.

Did you already get them off?

I should have just bought new tie rods with ends liek UB suggested.. instead I have new tie rod ends waiting to be installed like you.
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  #17  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:56 PM
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dude, you gotta loosen up the collar and slide it over so it's not on the threads




just kidding. i hope you got that part
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2010, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Volmer View Post
MAPP gas and pb blaster. Heat a little, soak with PB, repeat a few times and should free up. Good Luck, Art
X2. And I have found that a big sucka flat blade screwdriver in the notches on the ends of the TRs works better than a monkey wrench or anything you can get a grip on the out side smooth surfaces of the TRs them selves.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2010, 11:16 PM
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the one on the right with the handle is a universal adjuster that most of the guy in the shop use its about $24.00 , we get ours off the tool trucks, i found this one listed with a google search and amazon had it,.. i bet you could find it at sears.. they work great.. i personally dont like it because i find it to slip more than the one on the left. the one on the right will adjust large and small adjusters i.e. small trucks and large 1 ton trucks..
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2010, 07:25 AM
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When I needed a drag link end for a 60, it came with the tube from the dealer. They didn't offer the end without the rod. Somewhere they musta figured it wasn't worth saving the old tube.
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