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  #11  
Old 03-15-2010, 01:56 PM
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Ke your own crossmember that supports the tranny. Check out treeroots build on the mud tech pages or in his website for how to make one for a 420. I it's a 465, there's dual ptocovers so it's simple, but420'is a bit more difficult . As metioned a stronger detent spring and also check fo wear on the shift fork. When you have thevery front of your powertrain and the very back supported, everything wiggled and works itself loose
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  #12  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FJBRADY View Post
Kevin,

This is good stuff. I like the idea of welding in the torsion bar for frame longevity, as it stands the rock box/disk E brake is in the way.

So if I keep the SM420 and go with the Orion, order the 6.5" adapter plate, I can reuse my driveshafts?
I need to address the propeller crossmember support. Does AA have something else or is there somebody else who does?
If you go with the 6.5" adapter you will NOT be able to put back in the torsional crossmember but your driveshafts as they are now will probably fit. The trouble with AA's design is it mounts solidly to the back of the transfercase vis the Rear access cover of the trans input shaft. The sides are then cushioned on solid frame mounts via 1" thick hard rubber donuts. The stock design of FJ-40's designed around this by putting the motor mounts and the bell housing mounts relatively close to each other so the thin donuts were enough compression to allow for frame flex while still locating the powertrain. You can design your own set up but the key is the T-case attachment has to allow flex that the side mounts cannot and it keeps it located. No one that I know of makes an off the shelf after-market cross member that will do what you need it to do. Hopefully Treeroot will hop in here as I know he finally gave up and made some changes as he also was tired of all his gear lube on the ground after twisting it up on the rocks.
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  #13  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:48 PM
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The AA piece has a mount built into it. Just buy a standard tranny mount from energy suspension and build a cross member off of that.
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  #14  
Old 03-15-2010, 04:34 PM
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Steve,

I can also tell you that I had a brand new Orion 4-1 installed last year just prior to CM. I had Profitt's Cruiser's do the work and they are generally considered to be very good at this type of thing. Everything worked perfectly except the TC would pop into nuetral about every third steep descent.

After CM I took it back to Profitt's and watched as they tore it all down again to check the shift forks and to make sure all of the AA updates were included (the Orion's had lots of pop out problems early on). It still pops out occassionally on steep descents if I don't lock it in. I installed a small eye bolt on the floorboard and use a velcro strap to lash it into place.

I guess what I'm saying is, going to the Orion may solve your gear lube leak issue but it may not solve the issue of popping out of gear. I still like mine because it gives me such better gearing but I would be really ticked if I bought it only to solve the popping out issue and it didn't solve that.
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Old 03-15-2010, 04:40 PM
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but it may not solve the issue of popping out of gear.
Yeah I read about the Orion's popping out of gear when I considered swapping one in a few months back. Bit unnerving coming down the steeps.

I think for the short term I may dig into what I have....hopefully it is a easy fix. If not I might just have to put 35's on the FJC and wheel it for CM10!
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:06 PM
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Steve,

I can also tell you that I had a brand new Orion 4-1 installed last year just prior to CM. I had Profitt's Cruiser's do the work and they are generally considered to be very good at this type of thing. Everything worked perfectly except the TC would pop into nuetral about every third steep descent.

After CM I took it back to Profitt's and watched as they tore it all down again to check the shift forks and to make sure all of the AA updates were included (the Orion's had lots of pop out problems early on). It still pops out occassionally on steep descents if I don't lock it in. I installed a small eye bolt on the floorboard and use a velcro strap to lash it into place.

I guess what I'm saying is, going to the Orion may solve your gear lube leak issue but it may not solve the issue of popping out of gear. I still like mine because it gives me such better gearing but I would be really ticked if I bought it only to solve the popping out issue and it didn't solve that.

Neither mine, nor Treeroots, Orion pops out of gear. Check for body flex hitting the shifter lever. The early ones had the issue but AA's fix solved the problem.
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2010, 06:23 PM
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I've checked for body flex, etc and thats not it. Profitt's checked to make sure it had the new and improved components (it does) but it still does it. I just gave up and put the strap on it. I would like for it to work right without the strap but I'm not sure where to turn next.
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2010, 07:27 PM
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heaver detent springs ?
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  #19  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:10 AM
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A littlebit off topic... But what about if you had a toybox mounted in your drivetrain. where would you recommend the cross member to go if recommended at all?

Thanks Max
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  #20  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:47 AM
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A littlebit off topic... But what about if you had a toybox mounted in your drivetrain. where would you recommend the cross member to go if recommended at all?

Thanks Max
If you are running the Toy Box you will have to remove the torsional cross member. The best thing you can do is relocate it further rearward. You will need something to support the cases but if you create your own cross member with a central mounted flexable joint you would be fine. The key is to keep the drive train located and allowing the frame rails to flex. If using just the Orion you do not need an additional crossmember if your running the engine side mounts and the bell housing mounts. If relocating the torsonal cross member be sure to support the frame rails in all 4 corners evenly before cutting the old one and as you add in the new one.
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