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  #11  
Old 03-18-2010, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
What'd the old plugs look like? just curious...

I always anti seize mine too, didn't realize there was a debate either... Had too many "almost" not come out, or come out with half the threads.
Here they are:


Wow, it has been a while since you experienced guys have done a MUD search on replacing plugs. There are definitely two schools of thought on the pros/cons; ease of removal, contamination of the plug, affect on torque specs, yada, yada, yada. As these plugs are 100k rated, it will be some time before I get do them on this truck again. Stay tuned for about 8 years or so and I'll let you know how the no anti-seize approach worked.
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Three Wheel Ben View Post
You can tell if the plugs are original by a little painted/stamped mark on the very top. Sometimes it is a letter and sometimes it is a shape. Only has it from the factory, replacement plugs don't have them.

Antiseize = good, unless it is a Land Rover, then the plugs won't ground.
Thanks Ben. I just looked and the old plugs don't have this - so they are not the original ones. I bought the truck with 62k on it, so perhaps they were swapped by a previous owner. I've kept up with fluids on a regular basis and the only mechanical issues have been starter and the coil. I'm sure that will change a bit as it gets older, but I have been very pleased with the reliability.

So this thread has convinced me to give anti-seize a go on the next round. With my FJ40, that won't be too long from now.
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2010, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
contamination of the plug, affect on torque specs, yada, yada, yada.
Valid points, particularly torque. That is always true, though. Any torque spec in the FSM or otherwise is given assuming unaltered bolts. IOW, just as they are delivered to you by Jerry. Sometimes they will have thread sealant or anti-seize from the factory, but mostly they are given to you dry. If you choose to add Loctite or anti-seize then you have to adjust accordingly. I generally take the lowest setting of the range Toyota gives and reduce by 10%. I've never done an elongation check to see if this is appropriate, so I dunno if that matches the recommended adjustment by Permatex. I think that is something like 25% reduction from the recommended bolt pre-load, e.g. 80 ft-lbs becomes 60 ft-lbs to achieve the same clamping force.

Anti-seize is nothing but a lubricant with a soft metal suspended in it. If the fastener gets hot enough, as would spark plugs, the base burns off and just leaves the metal. In the case of copper anti-seize that leaves you a pretty good conductor filling the voids between the threads. Regular anti-seize I think is nickel, which is also a conductor. The grease or lube is not what's doing the anti-seizing, it's that the interface between the iron atoms in the threads is discontinuous with the suspended metal as it forms in the thread voids. This then prevents cold welding of the parts, which is what happens when iron atoms are put in tight contact under pressure, they start sharing electrons and literally start welding. The anti-oxidation and anti-galling is only a side benefit but not the main mode of keeping the bolts from freezing in place. This is why anti-seize works even after extreme heat like on engine or exhaust parts or being pounded by road salt. It doesn't matter if the lubricant gets flushed or burned off as long as the soft non-ferrous metal remains in place on the threads the joint cannot self-weld.

Now galvanic corrosion, hmmm. You are adding another metal to the equation, be it aluminum, copper, nickel. I think aluminum is fairly active, but nickel is fairly inactive. I'd have to put down this beer, stand up and get a book to check the galvanic series. Yeah, not worth it. My guess is there is probably a reason that spark plugs stick into heads, though. Maybe it's the galling and so it's not the anti-welding. I dunno.
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:39 PM
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The #3 cylinder coil pack went bad today, that makes 2 only 6 more to replace.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:04 AM
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The #3 cylinder coil pack went bad today, that makes 2 only 6 more to replace.
I would do the rest of them now, all at once and get it over with.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:20 AM
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Hopefully mine don't start going out soon, I'm at 120K miles
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:47 AM
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My first coil pack failed about 3 months ago. # 6 cylinder if I remember correctly. Great writeup by the way...never noticed this before.
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
I would do the rest of them now, all at once and get it over with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Hopefully mine don't start going out soon, I'm at 120K miles
This modern technology is way different (expensive) when compared to the FJ40. A coil pack runs about $80 and there is one for each cylinder. I suppose I could drop another $480 in preventive maintenance and be good for another 150k miles - but that would cut into my FJ40 budget. However, it would probably be a good thing to pick the next one up and toss it in the glove box.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:26 PM
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I was just going to ask if they are interchangeable. If they are I should probably have a spare one all ready to go so I can get to work if one of mine dies.
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2011, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
I was just going to ask if they are interchangeable. If they are I should probably have a spare one all ready to go so I can get to work if one of mine dies.
In my V8 they are all the same part number. My brother had one go out in an ES300, as it happens my father has a Solara with the same engine - but the ES300 had variable valve timing so the ignition coil was not interchangeable between the two cars. That said, there were not different part numbers for any cylinder differences.

I am pretty sure that if you picked one up, it would be the same part number and work in any cylinder.
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